Tips for shipping SPTs?

[damagi]

I would love to get any tips for shipping the SPTs. Specifically the bandsaw, but it would be good to know for any of them.

Thanks!

[dusty]

I would love to get any tips for shipping the SPTs. Specifically the bandsaw, but it would be good to know for any of them.

Thanks!

I have had one bandsaw (other than my new one years ago, shipped to me and I have shipped one elsewhere.



Based on that experience I would say:

Remove the table and as many other parts that you can easily remove and pack them on the inside (remove the blade). Then "pack" the whole thing in a box that is a little bit larger than the case so that it can't move around.

With regard to shipping a jointer, all I can say is good luck.

With regard to shipping a surface planer (ProPlaner), all I can say is don't. If you must, have it packed professionally and insure it.

[kartoffelkopf]

Here's my experience with shipping tools and tool parts - from about 10 years experience.
You've got to break stuff down as far as possible. Parts that "stick out" are likely to be busted off or crushed. Figure that the package has to survive being thrown, dropped, stepped on, etc. The first problem I see with a lot of packaging from eBay is that people like to re-use boxes. I don't have a problem with that at all… but not when you're shipping a 50lb. tool! New boxes are a must. I can't stress that enough. Use this (or something like it) and don't go sparingly. Wrap each loose part separately and then tape up as a bundle. Take up any room in the package with packing peanuts or this. Any movement inside the box is bad. Tape with a good strapping tape - regular (clear) packing tape is good and fine –– but not for heavy tools.

There will be some outlay of cash to ship a tool properly. But which is worse? Spending some $ for proper shipping or paying through the nose when you get your tool back in pieces?

If the tool is big enough it should be crated and sent freight. -But that's another issue altogether.

[beeg]

All I can add to Karts thoughts is. MAKE SURE the bottom flaps have 3 large staples per flap. Maybe even lay a piece of cardboard in the bottom to.

[beeg]

All I can add to Karts thoughts is. MAKE SURE the bottom flaps have 3 large staples per flap. Maybe even lay a piece of cardboard in the bottom to.

[billmayo]

I take the time to build a 1X2 frame (screws in drilled holes) and use plywood (1/4" or 3/8") to make a complete box using screws to hold the plywood to the frame. I use diagonal 1X2s to strengthen the frame. I actually test the wooden box by setting on the various sides and/or jumping up and down on the box before I pack it. I try to attach the SPT frame/biggest part with screws or bolts to the frame and/or add extra 1X2 strips to brace the frame body from moving. I had many strips of rigid foam insulation left over from insulating my garage and use these along with foam peanuts packed in zip-lock bags to take up any remaining space. I collect all the hard foam pieces I can find and use pieces from them too. I actually drop the wood box that is packed a few feet onto concrete to see or hear if anything is loose. If I do, I repack the box again. I write TOP on the final piece(lid) of plywood and later on the cardboard cover. I set on the lid to compress the contents as I screw the lid onto the box. I find using 1X2 strips, I have to drill a hole first and then screw to them. Then I finally cover the wooden box with cardboard so I can ship it with FedEx or UPS. I have not had any success using just cardboard for receiving or shipping ackward and/or heavy items.

I remove all parts that I believe the customer can assembly without problems. I have been able to ship a few Thickness Planers (1/2" plywood sides and top and 3/4" bottom bolted to the Thickness planer) without any problems. I place the table at its lowest level position and pack the motor and control box inside the planer body on the table. I find I normally spend more time packing a SPT than I needed to rebuild it.

[SDSSmith]

I take the time to build a 1X2 frame (screws in drilled holes) and use plywood (1/4" or 3/8") to make a complete box using screws to hold the plywood to the frame. I use diagonal 1X2s to strengthen the frame. I actually test the wooden box by setting on the various sides and/or jumping up and down on the box before I pack it. I try to attach the SPT frame/biggest part with screws or bolts to the frame and/or add extra 1X2 strips to brace the frame body from moving. I had many strips of rigid foam insulation left over from insulating my garage and use these along with foam peanuts packed in zip-lock bags to take up any remaining space. I collect all the hard foam pieces I can find and use pieces from them too. I actually drop the wood box that is packed a few feet onto concrete to see or hear if anything is loose. If I do, I repack the box again. I write TOP on the final piece(lid) of plywood and later on the cardboard cover. I set on the lid to compress the contents as I screw the lid onto the box. I find using 1X2 strips, I have to drill a hole first and then screw to them. Then I finally cover the wooden box with cardboard so I can ship it with FedEx or UPS. I have not had any success using just cardboard for receiving or shipping ackward and/or heavy items.

I remove all parts that I believe the customer can assembly without problems. I have been able to ship a few Thickness Planers (1/2" plywood sides and top and 3/4" bottom bolted to the Thickness planer) without any problems. I place the table at its lowest level position and pack the motor and control box inside the planer body on the table. I find I normally spend more time packing a SPT than I needed to rebuild it.

Wow!! That's impressive packaging! I use Uline boxes and different thicknesses of polystyrene sheet insulation for filler/shock absorbtion. For the bandsaw I use a 36x20x12 box. Remove the table and legs.

Packing peanuts do not do real well with heavier items......turn to dust!]