Shopsmith Forums

Anyone built a bay window seat before ?
I'm looking for suggestions on how to design/cut/attach the wings on either side of the main box.
I have it started in SketchUp if anyone wants to jump in and help, please email me and I'll send it.
BTW: the top is going to be hinged. Any ideas on what kind I should use?

Thanks a million !

Ken I have probably built a couple hundred over the years. I always design them with drawers instead of a flip up lid. That way you don't have to interrupt the cushions and things on top to get at the goodies. Check you angles before you proceed.

mbcabinetmaker wrote:Ken I have probably built a couple hundred over the years. I always design them with drawers instead of a flip up lid. That way you don't have to interrupt the cushions and things on top to get at the goodies. Check you angles before you proceed.

Thank you for responding.

Suggestions? Man - you'll probably get many!

Since you are going to have a hinged lid, you'll need a flat piece in the back, the same thickness as the top, about 3" or 4" wide. Here's where you'll attach the hinge. My suggestion is to rabbet both that back piece and the lid to fit a piano (continuous) hinge. The hinge can be shorter than the width of the seat. Leave a few inches on each side of the hinge. If you wish you can even use two piano hinges spaced a distance apart.

The sides - I recommend a frame and panel construction.

Most piano hinges come with #4 screws. You should get a centering drill bit http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10610 and drill all the screw holes. You should also use steel screws to finish the screw holes before installing the screws that come with the hinge.

Your profile does not show where you live. If it in an area where it gets cold like here be sure to plan the insulation carefully. Bay/bow windows here are often horribly insulated. It can get to 25 below zero here and a non insulated or poorly insulated unit is about like leaving a door ajar.

charlese wrote:Suggestions? Man - you'll probably get many!

Since you are going to have a hinged lid, you'll need a flat piece in the back, the same thickness as the top, about 3" or 4" wide. Here's where you'll attach the hinge. My suggestion is to rabbet both that back piece and the lid to fit a piano (continuous) hinge. The hinge can be shorter than the width of the seat. Leave a few inches on each side of the hinge. If you wish you can even use two piano hinges spaced a distance apart.

The sides - I recommend a frame and panel construction.

Most piano hinges come with #4 screws. You should get a centering drill bit http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10610 and drill all the screw holes. You should also use steel screws to finish the screw holes before installing the screws that come with the hinge.

I sure hope I get many ... and at least half as many with as much detail as you supplied. Thank you very much for taking the time to give such a detailed response! I think I will use the piano hinge.

robinson46176 wrote:Your profile does not show where you live. If it in an area where it gets cold like here be sure to plan the insulation carefully. Bay/bow windows here are often horribly insulated. It can get to 25 below zero here and a non insulated or poorly insulated unit is about like leaving a door ajar.

Great idea. I wouldn't have thought of that. Thank you.

So could I now ask for comments and opinions on the frame design below? :

kennygolub wrote: So could I now ask for comments and opinions on the frame design below? :

The front and rear appear to be well supported by the vertical members. How about the sides??? I would add a vertical member at each end of the sides.

I assume you intend to line it.

I would also hinge a lid on the sides with the hinge on the 'outside' edge.

I am inclined to agree with mark re the center being drawer access rather than a lid. 2 each his own!:)

P.S. N "8" Where's zat?

I hope this is a good suggestion for you. I'm sorry I didn't take the time to draw a new one in sketchup. I know my image editing is really rough .

[ATTACH]11439[/ATTACH]

If you build the front face frame to fit tight or even slightly long and the cabinet frame to slip in with space on three sides then you will avoid issues of walls that aren't plumb or angles that are not exact. If shimming the cabinet box isn't good enough solution, you can glue a lip on the outside of all the top rails then scribe cut to fit any contours.
That's what I would do, make the face frame fit tight (build all corners at 90° and scribe cut to fit if necessary) and the cabinet box loose.
I like the idea of making drawers, but if you love the idea of a hinged top lid then charlese has covered the solution for that.
One last suggestion don't forget to take pics so we can watch the progress .

Stay safe everyone