Shopsmith Forums

jsburger wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 9:43 pm . . .

It seems to me it is like using an open end wrench on a nut and saying you have to put the wrench on all 3 pairs of flats to get the nut tight.

An analogy that fails to take into account the nut is ONE piece. The chuck has at least 5 friction/interfacing surfaces.(three jaws to ring, sleeve to body(two areas).

Bottom line is if the sleeve rotates, the jaws are being tightened further.

To John's point, I think he's saying 'yes, but the sleeve is also one piece so what difference does it make which hole I'm tightening from?' Which I have wondered about too. So, try doing the three sequential tightening steps using the same hole. I tried that and for me it tightened much the same way as using the three hole technique. If that's true, it might imply a Human Factors reason or that removing and reapplying the torque is a factor. More experimentation is needed, something more repeatable and less subjective...

My gut feel is that it is HF, repositioning the key back to near vertical lets me apply more torque.

- David

Y'all can 'debate' this until the next milenium, but for me I ALWAYS tighten around and have not boogered a drill shaft in 50+ years(except when I did NOT tighten around). I store my bits in a drill index shaft end into the holes. And I do use then for steel and aluminum drilling. YMMV but I think not. And yes drill bits sometimes catch and stall out the bit 'rotater'.

Just bought a 1985 model today. I just wanted to say thank you to everyone on here for helping me talk myself into buying a cabinet shop the dive of a motorcycle!

Wife says “it’s the equivalent of a kitchen aid mixer for the garage... and it’s older than you.”

JPG wrote: ↑Thu Jan 28, 2021 8:07 pm Y'all can 'debate' this until the next milenium, but for me I ALWAYS tighten around and have not boogered a drill shaft in 50+ years(except when I did NOT tighten around). I store my bits in a drill index shaft end into the holes. And I do use then for steel and aluminum drilling. YMMV but I think not. And yes drill bits sometimes catch and stall out the bit 'rotater'.

When I bought a 510 several years ago I inspected it closely and noted every problem it had (all but one I could fix/repair at little expense). That brought the price down from $650 to $325. That one problem was the Jacobs Chuck. The holes in the chuck were elongated. I concluded that this had been caused by the p.o. using only one hole, not three to tighten drill bits. Yes, that's how he had done it and yes he did it because sometimes the drill shaft got "boogered" as JPG phrases it so he really cranked down to keep that from happening. From my perspective this is a good reason to tighten around.

JPG started this thread just over 11 years ago. It contains some great information and advice, for as the title states "Newowner Information". Since you have gotten this far you can see we are quite passionate about Shopsmith Tools. You can also see it is easy for us to focus on a subject. As a person new to this Forum the best place to get information on your Shopsmith is to start your own thread. Ask questions and certainly add pictures. We love to see pictures of your Shopsmith tools and they certainly help in describing questions you may have. Starting your own thread keeps the information about your Shopsmith in one location.

JPG's 6 rules (5a added later) hold true for any of the Shopsmith tools going from the original Model 10E through the Mark 7 today. There are a couple of these rules that may not apply depending on which Shopsmith you have. Rule #2 does not apply to Shopsmith's with the Power Pro DVR motor Headstock. Rule # 1 does not apply to Mark 2's since they do not have a Speed Dial or to a Model 10 unless it has a Speed Changer.

I would like to add my suggestions to new owners or to those new to the Shopsmith Forum.

This is one of, if not the best, sources for information on using, maintaining, repairing and restoring Shopsmith Tools. There is a wealth of information available in the links already given in the previous posts in this thread. Jacob Anderson has been referenced here and his videos can be helpful to you, but I understand he has retired from doing service work. Everett has restored many documents and made them available to us free of charge on his google drive which is linked under the Maintenance and Repair section under one of these topics you will find at the top of the page under Shopsmith Large Format Drawings Illustrations and More. It is another great Forum Thread for you to read through. With that I have to get on my soapbox for a minute and tell you it is a waste of money to buy copies of Manuals from online seller like those on ebay to get something sent to you that you can access for free right now. Some of them are even selling copies of Everett's work. Besides the Manual's we can help with just about everything related to the Shopsmith Tools.

When you need parts for your Shopsmith because they may be missing, worn out or damaged there is the choice of new parts from Shopsmith which I recommend especially for repair parts when possible or buying them used. I some cases used or non-OEM parts are the only option. If you are restoring a Model 10ER and the Way Tube Tie Bar is cracked the only option for a replacement is a used part. If you need a replacement part for a Mark V Speed Control Assembly even if it is from a 1954 Mark 5 Greenie you can get a new OEM part from Shopsmith. Best of all you can get help here in finding out what part is needed, if it is still available from Shopsmith and if there are different versions of the part you need which may vary where you have to get a replacement or which version specific replacement to watch for.

The Shopsmith Tools have more information available about them than any other tool around. The Owner's Manual, the Self-Study Guide and the book, previously mentioned, Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone are great references on using the Shopsmith Tools. For owner's of the old Mark VII from the 1960's there is a book titled Modern Power Tool Woodworking that features the Mark VII just as the book Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone features the Model 10ER (1st edition) or Mark 5/V (second edition through 4th edition) and both are from the same author R. J. DeChristforo. The second, third and revisied editions can be found at a very reasonable cost from book resellers. Modern Power Tool Woodworking can be a little harder to find.

If you would like to find out more about the different Shopsmith Tools I would recommend the following threads I started. In them is a lot of good information and discussion about these tools.

For the Model 10E and 10ER visit the following link titled Shopsmith Model 10's What When and Where.

viewtopic.php?t=23647

For the Mark 5/V visit the following link titled Shopsmith Mark 5 What When and Where. In it you will understand why I use Mark 5 or Mark V.

viewtopic.php?t=24963

If you want to learn more about the SPT's like the Jointer, Bandsaw and other SPT's check out the following link titled SPT's What When and Where.

viewtopic.php?t=26072

Finally I would like to add my many Thanks to JPG for not only starting this thread for new owners as a reference but to him and to others who have helped not only myself learn more about the Shopsmith Tools but add to the growing knowledge about these wonderful tools.

Well said!!!!!

RCTaylor wrote: ↑Wed Feb 03, 2021 8:35 pm Just bought a 1985 model today. I just wanted to say thank you to everyone on here for helping me talk myself into buying a cabinet shop the dive of a motorcycle!

Wife says “it’s the equivalent of a kitchen aid mixer for the garage... and it’s older than you.”

When my wife seen the Mark 5 when we picked it up, that is what see said to me.

So I don't have to go back and read everything can you direct me to JPG's 6 rules. I'm going to pass this SS downstream with a lot of information but don't think I have those rules to add.

db5,

JPG's 6 rules are in the first post in this thread. Just click on the page 1 box at the top or bottom of any page in this thread to go there.