Working on my Mark V Model 500

deadbox · Post by **deadbox** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 2:33 am

So it begins! A few before shots

All the bits pieces and SPTs I got with the Shopsmith:
[ATTACH]11628[/ATTACH]
With a close up of the tubes:
[ATTACH]11633[/ATTACH]

The first job will be the headstock of course so here it is:
[ATTACH]11629[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]11630[/ATTACH]

While I work on the headstock I set these to soak in some evapo-rust, this is should be the worst of the rust.
[ATTACH]11632[/ATTACH]

See what tomorrow brings when I clean off more grunge and get the headstock to pieces...

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:33 am

Looking good. I'm anxious to see how she cleans up.

I'm also curious. In the last post, can anyone identify the hub in the top left of the photo.

deadbox · Post by **deadbox** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 5:37 am

Actually that hub came from inside the lever beneath the main table opposite the large wingnut height adjuster

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 10:32 am

deadbox wrote:Actually that hub came from inside the lever beneath the main table opposite the large wingnut height adjuster

The 500 table elevator s different on a 500 from the 5xx crank. The 'flutes' on that mystery hub allow positioning the handle similar to the quill shaft handle etc.

The black oxide hubs can be somewhat salvaged(the blox) if you do not wire brush them after evaporust. Rinse them off and just wax them. Not as good as original blox, but not totally removed either.

8iowa · Post by **8iowa** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 12:06 pm

The machine appears to ge in great shape, with no visible rust on the bench and way tubes - that's a real plus. A little naval jelly on the hubs and lathe spur & dead center, along with some polishing with 220 and 320 paper should clean them up nicely. I often use "Perma Blue", a cold blue offered thru the gunsmith trade, to re-blue parts. It works great.

deadbox · Post by **deadbox** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 1:52 pm

Well there's no more rust...

[ATTACH]11647[/ATTACH]

If they develop some light flash rust I was considering using rust converter which will turn them black again. Being in Canada the cold blue from gunsmiths can be a little harder to find.

deadbox · Post by **deadbox** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:19 pm

More before pics after disassembling the headstock:
[ATTACH]11654[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]11653[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]11650[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]11651[/ATTACH]

And the two lower sheaves after some scrubbing with mineral spirits and some nylon and brass brushes and some 320 sandpaper
[ATTACH]11652[/ATTACH]

They seem to slide well enough but do stick a little when pushed together completely, after reinstalling and oiling that shouldn't be a problem

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 10:36 pm

Your motor Fan Sheave appears too close to the motor housing. You should remove the fan sheave and check if the spacer on the motor shaft has cut into the fan sheave or the spacer needs replacing. (.400" long).

deadbox · Post by **deadbox** » Fri Jan 28, 2011 11:18 pm

Now I know what to look for. I have to remove that sheave and clean it, theres a slight scraping sound when it turns one way but not the other. The quill and bearings I was concerned about before buying this shopsmith will probably need parts or replacing once I get it cleaned up. It looks like the first owner tried to add a second bearing inside the quill but right now it actually rattles when the shaft of the quill is moved side to side.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 2:05 pm

deadbox wrote:Now I know what to look for. I have to remove that sheave and clean it, theres a slight scraping sound when it turns one way but not the other. The quill and bearings I was concerned about before buying this shopsmith will probably need parts or replacing once I get it cleaned up. It looks like the first owner tried to add a second bearing inside the quill but right now it actually rattles when the shaft of the quill is moved side to side.

What you are most likely seeing is the Quill shaft spacer at the front of shaft splines. This helps center the quill shaft when inserting it into the drive sleeve. You should have a minimum of a 1/16" between the fan sheave and the motor front shield plate. Contact me if unable to get the motor shaft spacer from Shopsmith as I make/machine my own motor spacers.