My wife has an old chest of drawers (or maybe it's a dresser - what's the difference?) that was passed down to her. It's a nice unit over all, and in decent shape as far as scuffs and scrapes go. But, the top has a couple of splits down the length of it. The unit is about 5' long and one split is probably a little over 4' long.
What's the best way to repair this? Should I force the split on all the way to the end, then re-glue the entire area and clamp? Should I not force the split, and just try to apply glue the best I can?
Furniture repair question
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Furniture repair question
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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horologist
- Gold Member
- Posts: 431
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:36 pm
- Location: Melrose, FL
Heath,
I think a few photos would help. You might want to spend a little time figuring out why the top split (likely it was attached in a manner that didn't allow for wood movement). You will have to correct this before you make any repairs or the top will split again.
Troy
I think a few photos would help. You might want to spend a little time figuring out why the top split (likely it was attached in a manner that didn't allow for wood movement). You will have to correct this before you make any repairs or the top will split again.
Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
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mbcabinetmaker
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
HEATH
I agree with Horologist that wood movement (or lack thereof) is the problem. The splits should be along the glue lines and therefore straight. If so, then the top can be resawn along the line and re glued and put back together. If the crack is not along a glue line or diagonal you may have some success in forcing some glue into the crack and clamping to close the gap. However stress may be a factor in making this method successful. (future glue line failure)However the method that was used to attach the top has to be addressed first.
Bill V
I agree with Horologist that wood movement (or lack thereof) is the problem. The splits should be along the glue lines and therefore straight. If so, then the top can be resawn along the line and re glued and put back together. If the crack is not along a glue line or diagonal you may have some success in forcing some glue into the crack and clamping to close the gap. However stress may be a factor in making this method successful. (future glue line failure)However the method that was used to attach the top has to be addressed first.
Bill V
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robinson46176
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
Repairing furniture... 
Not something I generally like (shudder). Too hard to do with a hatchet. 
I have several once nice family pieces that need rebuilding. I keep looking for loose money in the budget to pay somebody else to refurbish them (so far I haven't found it 
). I may start tackling one at a time this summer. Sometimes just getting started is the hardest part.
.
Not something I generally like (shudder). Too hard to do with a hatchet. I have several once nice family pieces that need rebuilding. I keep looking for loose money in the budget to pay somebody else to refurbish them (so far I haven't found it ). I may start tackling one at a time this summer. Sometimes just getting started is the hardest part..
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
This brings to mind a tip that I have learned to keep longer glued boards from splitting at the ends.
I take my jointed boards to my workbench, and with a #5 hand plane set to take off extremely thin transluent shavings, I start close to one end and plane not quite to the other end. Then I repeat this process about two more times, sucsessively moving away from the ends and closer to the center. This creates a slight "spring" in the boards. When glued and clamped the ends are very tight.
I take my jointed boards to my workbench, and with a #5 hand plane set to take off extremely thin transluent shavings, I start close to one end and plane not quite to the other end. Then I repeat this process about two more times, sucsessively moving away from the ends and closer to the center. This creates a slight "spring" in the boards. When glued and clamped the ends are very tight.
Glue works best of freshly jointed edges, so just putting glue in the really old crack and clamping likely will not hold, but may be worth a try. The strongest fix would be to remove the top, split it along the crack, joint or saw the edges square, and re-glue. You may need to add a filler strip to replace what you removed with the jointer or saw.
Another possible fix would be to clamp the cracks closed and then use a couple of those x-shaped keys (look like a bowtie) that you would route into the top surface (or underside of the top) in order to hold the cracks closed. Adding glue wouldn't hurt.
You sometimes can stop a crack that continues from a check by drilling a hole where the crack meets solid wood. You can then fill the hole with a peg, but finding that exact point where a crack meets solid wood can be tricky.
Another possible fix would be to clamp the cracks closed and then use a couple of those x-shaped keys (look like a bowtie) that you would route into the top surface (or underside of the top) in order to hold the cracks closed. Adding glue wouldn't hurt.
You sometimes can stop a crack that continues from a check by drilling a hole where the crack meets solid wood. You can then fill the hole with a peg, but finding that exact point where a crack meets solid wood can be tricky.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
Heath stated the split is in the top. I'm curious how wood movement would be a problem here. It's not as if that area is a raised panel (right?). A few considerations:
1. A split that's 80% of the length of the top like this is not likely to be straight or square. So I don't think continuing the split to resaw and/or join is the proper approach. Too much material is likely to be lost.
2. How is the top attached? I can envision L-brackets, which are common in many older production pieces. That should allow sufficient flex, should it not?
3. Is the top solid or are we dealing with veneer? I assume from your discussion it is solid.
4. Is it a bread board top?
5. Assuming the top is solid, assuming the split is not on a glue line, and assuming the top is attached with brackets, you could split, glue and then replace with the brackets in new holes that would apply clamping pressure toward the center of the top. Of course, I speak from a wealth of knowledge.
I think pictures are in order.
1. A split that's 80% of the length of the top like this is not likely to be straight or square. So I don't think continuing the split to resaw and/or join is the proper approach. Too much material is likely to be lost.
2. How is the top attached? I can envision L-brackets, which are common in many older production pieces. That should allow sufficient flex, should it not?
3. Is the top solid or are we dealing with veneer? I assume from your discussion it is solid.
4. Is it a bread board top?
5. Assuming the top is solid, assuming the split is not on a glue line, and assuming the top is attached with brackets, you could split, glue and then replace with the brackets in new holes that would apply clamping pressure toward the center of the top. Of course, I speak from a wealth of knowledge.
I think pictures are in order.
A few methods I use every day
I own a small antique repair shop, and fixing cracks is an every day chore. It all depends on the condition of the crack. If it has been open for 60 years, and full of crud and wax, then it's probly not going to re-glue well. I have had success when I can get a wire brush or something into the crack to remove all the crud, following up with acetone to clean it out well. Otherwise, you could just get it as clean as possible, then re-glue. (epoxy can be a big help here) When the glue has dried completely, don't remove the clamps yet. You can "stitch" the crack from behind with some small hardwood dowels, drilled at an extreme angle to the surface, so the dowel will protrude accross the crack,but not all the way through to the other side(face). Don't use a brad point bit! It will pull itself THROUGH to the other side! Not what you are trying to accomplish! Alternate these "stitches" side to side of the crack. A very strong joint. A "dutchman", or bowtie can also be mortised out on the back, and installed accross the crack. This is a VERY common repair in old furniture. Some look so cool, it's done on the face where the inlay can be seen. I've even fixed a crack on one end, and installed "dummy" bowties to the other end to make it more appealing. Like it was done on purpose when it was built. Other than that, you can do as stated above, cutting out the crack, and gluing in a filler strip. The problem here is, wood and color match. I have stolen matching old wood from somewhere on the piece that won't be seen, and use that for the filler. Amazing how well this works! If it is a clean break, I'd try the reglue first. Good luck with it!! jimsjinx
If you are a part time band leader, does that make you a semi-conductor? Where do all the "unguided" bombs go?
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I would rather fix furniture than build a piece, I just love the challenge.
JiMjinx had some very good advice.
I would clean the crack as thorough as possible, I would soak the crack in acetone to remove any unseen crud. Then before I did anything else I would clamp the top and see how much I could close the crack. If it was open enough to slip the edge of a page in I would use epoxy to glue it. If on the other hand I could close the crack enough that I couldn't slip the edge of sheet of paper in then I would use wood glue.
If you have to use epoxy the glue will show. You can tint the epoxy to closely match the wood and hopefully if you do it right it would look like a grain pattern. You might even tint the epoxy dark and use it as an accent grain in wood.
Us masking tape on either side of the crack so you don't mar the finish. If you do mar the finish don't try fix it, sand the whole top down restain and refinish it.
One last thing you could try if the crack has been there forever and really isn't much over an 1/8' wide is to burn in some lacquer stick.
It is basically a wax like product that you heat just a little bit over a clean flame (alcohol) but you heat your burn in knife enough to melt the product. You drip the product into the crack until it is filled then using the hot knife smooth the surface even with the top. Then burnish it and polish and it will take shine like fine wood. Again if you do a good color match you will never see the crack.
I am fair at doing this but I have seen some guys that can make a repair in cracks and scratches that nobody can find. The problem is getting the product and getting a color match. You may had to buy about 3-8 sticks and mix them to get your perfect color match. Woodcraft did carry a fair supply of the product.
Check woodworker supply http://woodworker.com/search.asp?search ... 2godK1R7Ag
and also Rockler and along with woodcraft. They also have an electric burn in knife if you want to spend some more money. I use a very flexible cake decorating spatula (long and skinny) that cost me $2 or $3 and an alcohol lamp or our electric stove.
JiMjinx had some very good advice.
I would clean the crack as thorough as possible, I would soak the crack in acetone to remove any unseen crud. Then before I did anything else I would clamp the top and see how much I could close the crack. If it was open enough to slip the edge of a page in I would use epoxy to glue it. If on the other hand I could close the crack enough that I couldn't slip the edge of sheet of paper in then I would use wood glue.
If you have to use epoxy the glue will show. You can tint the epoxy to closely match the wood and hopefully if you do it right it would look like a grain pattern. You might even tint the epoxy dark and use it as an accent grain in wood.
Us masking tape on either side of the crack so you don't mar the finish. If you do mar the finish don't try fix it, sand the whole top down restain and refinish it.
One last thing you could try if the crack has been there forever and really isn't much over an 1/8' wide is to burn in some lacquer stick.
It is basically a wax like product that you heat just a little bit over a clean flame (alcohol) but you heat your burn in knife enough to melt the product. You drip the product into the crack until it is filled then using the hot knife smooth the surface even with the top. Then burnish it and polish and it will take shine like fine wood. Again if you do a good color match you will never see the crack.
I am fair at doing this but I have seen some guys that can make a repair in cracks and scratches that nobody can find. The problem is getting the product and getting a color match. You may had to buy about 3-8 sticks and mix them to get your perfect color match. Woodcraft did carry a fair supply of the product.
Check woodworker supply http://woodworker.com/search.asp?search ... 2godK1R7Ag
and also Rockler and along with woodcraft. They also have an electric burn in knife if you want to spend some more money. I use a very flexible cake decorating spatula (long and skinny) that cost me $2 or $3 and an alcohol lamp or our electric stove.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!