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My 10-ER is now on a roll

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:41 pm
by robinson46176
When I got my 10-ER a few years ago I pretty much just parked it other than blowing it off and looking it over fairly closely for any possible needs. I did use a sanding disk on it a few times but it has mostly sat back in a corner. Looking at it yesterday I was asking myself why I was not using it and I realized that it was because it is such a PITA to roll around. :eek: It had the old steel casters and I don't suppose that they had seen any lubrication in the last 50 years. You could hardly get it to change directions and if there was even the slightest variation of the concrete floor the ends of the legs would drag on the floor. Today I did the upside down on a pair of sawhorses bit with it. Can you say hernia? Dang that thing is heavy compared to a Mark V. The caster set was installed fine and the cams still in the proper positions on the shafts. Everything was just dirty and dry and one caster was rusted into its socket tightly. Someone had replaced its wheel with what looked to be a steel skate wheel. The original may have sat in a wet spot and rusted the wheel beyond use. I gave everything a good blowing out while I had it belly up and attacked the caster set with some Johnsen's (with an E) spray can penetrating oil constantly moving everything around. I finally got the stuck caster out and compared them to some new ones. Back when SS was selling a lot of excess stuff I was at the factory and I bought 6 sets of casters at .50 cents a caster. They appeared to be from demo units or something. The wheel faces were just lightly scratched. The new ones were a bigger in diameter then the old steel wheels so I replaced all 4 of them. When I flipped it back upright the bigger wheels were just right. It now lifts high enough to always clear the floor and rolls which ever direction I want to go. It still rolls a tiny bit harder than a Mark V but that is just the extra weight.
While I was at it I did a quick coat of Johnson's paste wax on the way tubes and attacked much of the rest of it with the spray penetrating oil on threads and locks etc. working things to get them free and loose. I used it a lot of places where I normally wouldn't but there was a lot of gum, possibly from old dried wax. The oil softened the gummy stuff and tomorrow I will take a can of carburetor cleaner down the the shop and use it to remove the now softened gummy stuff.
I can't seem to find anything wrong with this thing except the belt looks a little tired. It runs quiet and I can't find any slop in it anywhere.
Now that I can grab it and pull it out in the floor easily instead of wrestling it across the floor I expect to use it much more. I am fighting off the urge to do a repaint right away, just too many other things to do. Nice machine...

Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:35 pm
by JPG
You may discover it is an excellent drill press!!! A 'better' lathe due to its heavier way tubes.

Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:43 am
by robinson46176
JPG40504 wrote:You may discover it is an excellent drill press!!! A 'better' lathe due to its heavier way tubes.


I have about 3 SS mortising attachments and I have considered setting one up on the 10-ER and another on the Mark V based Push-me, Pull-me drill press and comparing function of both using the same size mortise and the same wood to see if there is any real difference. If it works noticeably better on the 10-ER (I have read such claims) then I might pick up another and make it into a dedicated mortising machine on a completely different type of base. I understand (I think :) ) that the mortising attachment was originally designed for the 10's. That is all fairly low priority right now.

I have the Frankensmith to become my dedicated lathe and since it is based on a Mark VII it is a lot heavier than a Mark V and would also be easier to add weight to it. The weight can be added down low on it for added stability. I don't use what I call the kangaroo pouch (the dust collection box in the base) so I could add a lot of weight to it. The feet of the Mark VII base also provide large flat areas down low where weight could be easily added. I have no intention of ever tipping the Frankensmith to vertical and may even bolt the whole tube assembly rigidly to the base including some added struts out at each end connecting the tube "cage" down to the ends of the feet just to add stiffness to the whole thing.

Here is a picture of the Frankensmith when I first started working on it. It is still ugly but it is on a whole different base now with a completely different type of caster set. I put the picture here to show those not familiar what kind of configuration a Mark VII frame has. I suspect that filling the kangaroo pouch full of bricks will be plenty of weight.

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 12:00 pm
by robinson46176
I was only in the woodshop a few minutes this morning (Wed) but I did have to take time to roll the 10-ER around the floor a little "just because I could". :cool:


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