Auxiliary Fences
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Auxiliary Fences
I made the pictured aux fence to allow me to cut 4x8 plywood without help. It proves very handy when ripping long boards like the 6 ft. VG Fir on the table.
It hangs on the wall and the Rockler heavy duty roller stands serve as infeed and outfeed support.
Everything has to roll away at night so that SWMBO's car can fit in my 'shop' at night.
Forrest
It hangs on the wall and the Rockler heavy duty roller stands serve as infeed and outfeed support.
Everything has to roll away at night so that SWMBO's car can fit in my 'shop' at night.
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
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mbcabinetmaker
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1627
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
golden boardfeet
Right! About $6 per boardfoot here.
It is beautiful but must be used properly to take advantage of the terrific lines. It is very, very susceptible to 'flaking off' on the grain lines if you try to use it wrong - too thin on the grain lines.
Forrest
It is beautiful but must be used properly to take advantage of the terrific lines. It is very, very susceptible to 'flaking off' on the grain lines if you try to use it wrong - too thin on the grain lines.
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
That causes splinters also. Not my favorite 'species'. I am sensitive to it also(makes my nose run etc.).forrestb wrote:Right! About $6 per boardfoot here.
It is beautiful but must be used properly to take advantage of the terrific lines. It is very, very susceptible to 'flaking off' on the grain lines if you try to use it wrong - too thin on the grain lines.
Forrest
Anybody seen DF plywood lately?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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foxtrapper
- Gold Member
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am
A can appreciate the thought and effort, but really I question the worth and even the safety of that fence. For it's attached to the stock fence, and just extends any and all inaccuracies along its length. It's also quite wiggly.
I'd think the vertical support would be wonderfully helpfull, but horizontally, I dunno about that.
I'd think the vertical support would be wonderfully helpfull, but horizontally, I dunno about that.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I think I understand your concern but do remember - If you keep the work against the actual fence (for the entire length of the actual fence) there will be no additional inaccuracies established. The actual fence is the determining factor. This said - the axillary fence must not be allowed to introduce and deviation.foxtrapper wrote:A can appreciate the thought and effort, but really I question the worth and even the safety of that fence. For it's attached to the stock fence, and just extends any and all inaccuracies along its length. It's also quite wiggly.
I'd think the vertical support would be wonderfully helpfull, but horizontally, I dunno about that.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
pretty stable so far
The long 2x4 that is clamped to the fence was jointed and thicknessed to be very straight and has not, over the last year, lost that. I deliberately choose a thick piece for the long extension to keep "wiggly" out. As for "extends any and all inaccuracies along its length" that is true but at the blade it assumes the straightness of the 501(502?) ShopSmith fence. Were there too many inaccuracies I would expect to experience blade binding - which I haven't seen as yet. The work piece, so far, lays up against the 2x4 all the way to the end. Any deviation is so small as to not be recognizable.foxtrapper wrote:A can appreciate the thought and effort, but really I question the worth and even the safety of that fence. For it's attached to the stock fence, and just extends any and all inaccuracies along its length. It's also quite wiggly.
I'd think the vertical support would be wonderfully helpfull, but horizontally, I dunno about that.
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
I think this is a great jig for ripping long boards, especially if you're going it by yourself. I had to rip a long board on my old Hitachi "job site" table saw (before I ever had a Shopsmith) that had a slightly larger table and longer fence than the Shopsmith. I experienced a lot of blade binding because it was really hard to keep the board straight doing it by myself. The relatively short fence acted as a pivot point. Now, before I do anything like that again, I would build a jig like this. So thanks for posting, Forrest!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- wannabewoodworker
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 626
- Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:36 am
- Location: Milford, CT
Awesome post thank you for sharing your great idea. I have been trying to come up with a good way to cut larger stock on the saw by myself and this looks to be the ticket for sure.
Michael Mayo
Senior IT Support Engineer
Soft Designs Inc.
albiemanmike@gmail.com
1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....
Senior IT Support Engineer
Soft Designs Inc.
albiemanmike@gmail.com
1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....