PowerPro review - the whole thing

[charlese]

I really love my PowerPro headstock - have run it over 50 hours and find it is TRULY a
joy too use! But let's start from the beginning....

Got my DIY PowerPro kit in the first shipment. Was not immediately thrilled. A phone call to Shopsmith led me to contact Wes. He ran me through a re-setting of the numbers in the control panel that immediately cured the shaking and noises coming from the headstock. At least they were cured without any SPT or saw blade attached. Wound up sending the whole headstock back to the factory for repair. They kept me informed about what they were doing. It was good to note that my installation job was well done. (Whew! I had started to doubt myself)

Now making a long story shorter, I received my repaired headstock back about a month later (Jan 4th '11) with all new parts inside plus a new control pad.. Found I could mount it on the way tubes by sitting it on a plywood platform sitting on top of the headrest - steadying it there with one hand while adjusting the way tubes down so I could start the tubes into the headstock. Once started it was only a matter of tilting and slowly working the headstock onto the tubes. The hard part was lifting the unit up to the top of the headrest. I don't think I could have lifted it any higher. [NOTE - the complete headstock weighs 82 or so lbs. The DIY kit is a lot easier to lift because the 35 lb. motor is not in the headstock when it is put on the tubes.]

Shopsmith advertises: Broader Speed Range - Forward and Reverse Operation - Easy to use Digital Panel - Fool Proof Controls - Smoother Quieter operation - Lower Electric Power requirements.

Broader Speed range; Yes it certainly is, from 250 to 10,000 RPM. For me this makes it a real joy to use my Forstner bits. Table sawing is great at 3450 RPM. The saw runs smoothly. I use less RPM to do rip cuts. Down to 2900. Works for me!

I have done just a very little bit of routing using a 3/8" pattern bit and a guide pin. 10,000 RPM is a little slow for this use. I'd rather use a router. Other routing has been the use of a 1/16" round-over. Used the round-over as a plunge router, rounding the edges of 1/2" holes (windows in little cars). This works very well. Didn't use the shopsmith to round-over the edges of the cars, because the cars were too small to safely use with an overhead router. Couldn't hold them down while keeping my fingers at a safe distance from the bit. I would have had my fingers beneath the plastic shield.

Forward and Reverse; This feature has become a true joy! I've found I can mount any two SPTs on the MarkV frame, one on the headrest and the other on the spindle end. For example, the bandsaw on the headrest and a sander on the spindle end. All that is needed to run either SPT is to slide the headstock across the way tubes. Of course it is necessary to reverse for the tool on the spindle side. This is a super way to do changeovers with nothing but a slide across the tubes and a couple of button pushes.

Easy to use Digital control panel; By this statement, I think they mean the 5 easy to find buttons (pads) above the control panel. They are 900 RPM, 1350 RPM, 2000 RPM, 3450 RPM, and 9500 RPM. These speeds are labeled on the informational patch that is located near the top of the headstock near the spindle. On this patch, the speeds are defined as 900 - bandsaw, drill/bore, 1350 most sanding, 2000 scroll saw, 3450 table saw & jointer, 9500 routing and shaping. These 5 buttons are easy settings for most operations, and are very easy to use. Planing is not listed, I guess that is because in the digital chart, reverse is used.

Not being at all knowledgeable about RPMs, I needed that help! For years, I have been used to the letter system and the spinning of the speed control. (For table sawing, just 4 1/2 rotations to get to saw speed from "slow".) RPMs are new to me, I'm learning slowly.

Fool Proof Controls; But they didn't plan on a fool like me! The on board digital chart that lets the user select the operation is wonderful. If the user takes his time and correctly reads the operation and material being used this is fool proof. The only potential issue I can find with the controls, is the confirm button. It must be pushed for any speed over 1500 and any reverse operation. "Confirm" is also used during use of the digital chart. It is the most used button, and can become too automatic .

Like a computer that requires the user to confirm if he wants to do a delete or other thing, the confirm button can become too normal - thereby programming something not wanted. The good news here is - if there is no wood touching the blade nothing should be hurt. The headstock can be re-programed.

Smoother, Quieter Operation; This is true!!!! If the headstock becomes noisy, call Shopsmith for help. My original headstock had some noisy bearings.

Lower Electric Power Requirements; Don't know for sure, but I have no doubt.

Other Notes; From what I have read on this forum, each PowerPro may have individual issues. Some quirks are individual and some may be shared.

With my headstock, use of the bandsaw requires a tight fitting coupler and tight hubs. My original coupler had about 2/1000" rotational play and also fit over the hub loosely. This was no issue with my old headstock, but the PowerPro senses that play and will react with banging noises and jumping when a blade is put in a bind. Two fixes - 1) never bind a blade 2) get and use a tight fitting plastic coupler. The tight fitting coupler solved all of this issue! The original coupler can still be used for sanding and joining. This was a very easy fix, but embarrassingly hard to find!

There is a minor issue with my headstock that is really a non-issue. When my headstock is warmed up, it will over rev at lower speeds. This only occurs below 1500 RPM. This over revving is a non-issue, because as soon as a resistance is felt, the speed immediately goes down to the set speed. Drilling with a forstner bit is my favorite example
of this. Set at 400, the headstock will put out an unbridled 550 or so. However as soon as the bit touches wood the speed drops to 400.

One of the changes in operation from the older headstock is the non-use of the main power switch. It had become very normal for me to turn off the power switch between boards. It was an embedded habit to reach for the power switch. This habit quickly became frustrating as I had to re-program the speed I had been using (including the confirm button). Then the light dawned on the forth reading of the manual. It takes 10
seconds for the display to go off after switching off the power switch. If the power switch is turned on again during those 10 seconds, the pre-set speed (and direction) is saved. All that's needed to start it up again is to bush the ON button (and the confirm button if over 1500 RPM or reverse). This is a trick that has saved a lot of frustration.

The PowerPro doesn't need lubrication. However, because of the added weight, the way tubes seem to need more frequent waxing. When freshly waxed the heavier headstock slides quit easily.

[beeg]

GREAT Review Chuck. Thank you for posting it.

[nuhobby]

I agree on the Forstner bits! I use up to 1" diameter bits regularly on my projects. The PP speed-chart gets the bit into a sweet zone (often well under 700rpm). I sometimes reduce it further on really hard wood or end-grain.

I've mentioned elsewhere, lathe-turning is a nice, tranquil experience with the PowerPro. I can't tell if the extra weight has helped the overall frame stability, but it sure hasn't hurt.

My initial time with the 12" sanding disk showed the low speed chatter which was disconcerting. This was resolved with the call with Wes. Lately I even used a very low speed for a minor steel-grinding job with the sanding-disk.

I have a homemade "SandFlee" based on the 6" long drum sander, and this is also a nice quiet job with the PP -- low noise and low dust.

The 5 preset speeds and the built-in Speed Chart computer are really great. I like using them and I think they're well worth the time spent pressing buttons.

Overall I like the PP very much and I would not want to go back to the standard headstock now. At the same time, it was very expen$ive, and I've sold a few odds and ends to help defray the cost. Is my journey over yet? No... it never is.

[john]

Chuck:

Thanks for the post, it's always a pleasure to read your posts.

Now if only I could find a way to convince my "Good Wife" that I need the upgrade.


Have fun.

John

[Ed in Tampa]

Great review Chuck
I was hoping for more new uses or discoveries.
With what I know now about the Power Pro I can't justify the cost to myself let alone sell it to the wife. So I guess I will still pass on the Power Pro.
Now when they put it on sell or if someone comes up with a operation that only a Power Pro can do and it is something that rings my bell perhaps I will spring but until then, well I will read you guys stories.

[smredleg]

Geeze, you guys in California have all the fun.
My Power Pro arrived in late December 2010, in the midst of a snowfall. Only 60" of the white stuff, so far. So it sat in the breeze way. Today,
with the help of a heavy lifter (my son), we mounted the Power Pro, and I actually made some saw-dust! Wow.... the Power Pro is quiet, powerful and a great new part of the ShopSmith inentory.
My problem is that my "shop," is also my garage. Up here in Wisconsin with an unheated garage, it takes me out of the "winter projects" game.
Regardless, I'm ready for all my projects just as soon as it hits 55 deg in the garage. Here it'll be, June/ July at the latest.

[michaeltoc]

I needed to drill a flat-bottomed hole in some aluminum, and borrowed an end mill from a friend. Turns out that the mill was left-handed, so I simply put the PowerPro in reverse and milled away!

Of course, that alone is no reason to justify the upgrade, but having reversibility is a great feature. I haven't done any turning yet, but it would be great to be able to reverse the piece for final sanding.

[Stitch]

I needed to drill a flat-bottomed hole in some aluminum, and borrowed an end mill from a friend. Turns out that the mill was left-handed, so I simply put the PowerPro in reverse and milled away!

Of course, that alone is no reason to justify the upgrade, but having reversibility is a great feature. I haven't done any turning yet, but it would be great to be able to reverse the piece for final sanding.

I don't understand why one wants to reverse direction to sand a turning. Since I don't have that capability, do I get the same effect by walking around to the back side of the lathe?:o

[dickg1]

I don't understand why one wants to reverse direction to sand a turning. Since I don't have that capability, do I get the same effect by walking around to the back side of the lathe?:o

No. Imagine yourself standing at the tailstock end looking toward the headstock. Your work is turning counterclockwise. Now imagine a piece of sandpaper on top of the rotating piece. It doesn't matter which side of the SS you stand to hold the paper, your piece is still turning counerclockwise.
Dick

[Stitch]

No. Imagine yourself standing at the tailstock end looking toward the headstock. Your work is turning counterclockwise. Now imagine a piece of sandpaper on top of the rotating piece. It doesn't matter which side of the SS you stand to hold the paper, your piece is still turning counerclockwise.
Dick

I will have to give this some really deep thought because the concept is not obvious to me at all. What is to be accomplished technically by going reverse that is not being accomplished by sanding from the other side? Sorry, I'm dense.