Shopsmith Forums

I'm in the middle of building a barrister bookcase, and need 4 x 3/8 slats for the bookcase back. I will be resawing soft maple and I picked up a couple of 2" wide scraps that had been thru my lunchbox planer and got it down to 25/32 to do some testing with.

I wanted to contrast/compare the 5/8" ShopSmith blade (SS555421) with a 1/2" Highland Woodworking Wood Slicer. Both brand new, fresh out of the packing.

I followed the SS bandsaw owner's manual for set-up. And also followed the setup instructionsfor the Wood Slicer. I did this for both blades.

Here's a macro shot of the 2 slabs from the SS blade:
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This one a little farther away:
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Here's a macro shot of the 2 slabs from the Wood Slicer:
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This one a little farther away:
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As you can see, the cut from the SS blade was not quite as 'clean' as the Wood Slicer, but is actually quite acceptable for resawing.

I could tell no difference in the width of the kerf between blades. Holding the slabs together and measuring with my calipers, they both came in exactly at 3/4". Both blades took out 1/32" in the cut.

The SS blade required absolutely no adjustment for lead. The fence was parallel to the grooves in the table.

I had to adjust the fence for about 3/16" difference end-to-end on the table to adjust for lead on the WS.

Which one will I use to do the back slats? The Wood Slicer.
Why, because it is the one on the saw and I don't have to re-setup to use the SS. I'm not lazy, just frugal with my time

Thanks Bud. Glad you spent some of that time to post the review.
I like the SS 5/8". Never used the WS. though.

Thanks for the review and the photos. Really help a FNG like me make better decisions.

Forgot to mention in my first post....
The Wood Slicer is quieter....just as they claim in their propaganda....errr....product info

And, listening to the motor, (I've got it on the SS power stand with the 1/2 horse motor), it was not working as hard with the WS.

Could possibly make a difference on a really hard piece of wood. When I get to the plinth on the bookcase, I'll need to trim down a chunk of of 8/4 hard maple. Will try to remember to let you know if there was any difference...

Thanks for the unbiased information and the nice pictures. A great help.

Hi,

I'd be interested in how your band saw is set up. Have you upgraded the guide bushings(cool blocks, ceramic), added the double bearings, or any other sorts of modifications of thing or is pretty much stock.

What fence system are you using?

I have yet to mount my woodslicer much less tension and adjust it on my shopsmith bandsaw. I have one that I have used on my other brand bandsaw and found it takes a bit of time to learn how to get it cutting spot on... the little part about the power on flutter test and getting rid of that last bit of jitter is key to getting really great cuts. I'm looking forward to getting to that point on the shopsmith, any hints you can pass along would be most helpful.

Ed

reible wrote:I'd be interested in how your band saw is set up. Have you upgraded the guide bushings(cool blocks, ceramic), added the double bearings, or any other sorts of modifications of thing or is pretty much stock.

Ed,
This bandsaw is stock...no updates, no upgrades. I assume the PO (Previous Owner) bought it as part of a package deal...the serial # on my 510 says it is an early 1998 model. The 5/8 SS blade (still in the factory package) was part of the 'package' when I got the system, as was the fence and table extension.

I've got it mounted on the SS power stand I bought in the early 80s.
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Did anyone notice my Yuba RAS in the background?

Yes I did on the RAS but mine is Gray have not gotten the Gold one yet but still looking

Bud,
While my SS 5/8" does well for most woods, I use a Suffolk Machinery 1/2X4 bi metal blade for re sawing mesquite, Boise d' Arc and "ironwood".
So far, I've never run in to any metal in resawing, but that's another reason for using the Suffolk Blade.