Cheap Easy to Build Thickness Sander

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:23 pm

Last spring I posted an idea I had for a drum sander for SS. I need one for the kind of work I'm doing (marquetry) but I do want to spend my time on the marquetry, not the sander so I revised and came up with an easier model. This one only takes a few days to make and only costs around $100.

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Rather than re-write a whole description of this thing I will take the easy way out and give you links to my project post and my construction blog on Lumberjocks.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/57158

http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/26701

Feel free to ask questions

Paul M

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:22 pm

shipwright wrote:Last spring I posted an idea I had for a drum sander for SS. I need one for the kind of work I'm doing (marquetry) but I do want to spend my time on the marquetry, not the sander so I revised and came up with an easier model. This one only takes a few days to make and only costs around $100.

[ATTACH]15215[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15216[/ATTACH]

Rather than re-write a whole description of this thing I will take the easy way out and give you links to my project post and my construction blog on Lumberjocks.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/57158

http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/26701

Feel free to ask questions

Paul M

Gotta agree with all those folks 'over there'. NICE JOB! I like the simple direct solutions.(KISS)

I am assuming that since very small sanding 'depth' is used, that heat buildup is not a problem. I am curious what the thread pitch on the three ready rods is.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:19 am

JPG, Thanks.
Heat buildup is non existent partly because with SS I can control the speed but also and more importantly, the velcro paper attachment really helps with that.

The threaded rod is 16 tpi. I could have gone for fine thread but this is very accurate and fine thread would take a lot longer to move from a thick workpiece to a thin one.

On the marquetry in the post I made 5 incremental cuts and at least 1/2 of the 1/32" veneer is still there.

algale · Post by **algale** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:30 am

Wow! This is an elegant design. One of those rare occasions that even though you know that a ton of thought and creativity went into designing and making it, you take one look at it and think to yourself "Of course, it's so simple! Why would you do it any other way!"

I do, however, have a question. In operation, how do you ensure that you get the desired amount of stock removal from the item being sanded without turning the item being sanded into either (1) a projectile or (2) a wedge that gets stuck?

Thanks again for sharing,

Al

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:34 am

Note: My apologies for being lazy and posting the LJ's link. For those of you not familiar with them, there is a line along the top that will link you to the next section of the blog. This one is in five parts and if you only see the page in my link, you are missing most of the information.

tomsalwasser · Post by **tomsalwasser** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:45 am

shipwright wrote:Last spring I posted an idea I had for a drum sander for SS. I need one for the kind of work I'm doing (marquetry) but I do want to spend my time on the marquetry, not the sander so I revised and came up with an easier model. This one only takes a few days to make and only costs around $100. Rather than re-write a whole description of this thing I will take the easy way out and give you links to my project post and my construction blog on Lumberjocks. Feel free to ask questions. Paul M

Absolutely amazing Paul, thank you! Do you think you'll draw up some plans? I'm surprised SS doesn't sell something like this.

Tom

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:56 am

Tom, Here's a sketchup that I did shortly after starting. I changed a few things but the concept is all there. Between this and the blog you should be able to build one pretty easily. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/ ... 809ec3f669

Al, I had the same question when I first saw hand fed drum sanders. It turns out that at the appropriate depth of cut, there isn't a lot of back pressure.

Yes, if you let it go it will be ejected but it is remarkably easy to control. The bigger skill to master is feeding absolutely evenly. If you should pause, even for a moment, you will get a little groove where the drum was during the pause.

The short answer to your question is "Don't try to take too big a cut."

algale · Post by **algale** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:28 am

shipwright wrote:
Al, I had the same question when I first saw hand fed drum sanders. It turns out that at the appropriate depth of cut, there isn't a lot of back pressure.

Yes, if you let it go it will be ejected but it is remarkably easy to control. The bigger skill to master is feeding absolutely evenly. If you should pause, even for a moment, you will get a little groove where the drum was during the pause.

The short answer to your question is "Don't try to take too big a cut."

Hmmmm. Do you reach around to pull the last bit through or is this a two person job?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:19 pm

Al , Paul

The drum is climb sanding, so I would expect little back pressure other that having to push the workpiece 'uphill'. Nay!

I noticed the sketchup was sloped the opposite direction. That would have resulted in plow sanding and an uphill feed. Was it reversed after trying it out or at some other point? Nay!!

I assume the operating position is off the end and infeed controlled with left hand and outfeed controlled with right. Nay!!!

I thought the process description a bit truncated!:D Gonna go back to see 'the rest of the story'.

Nothing like 'the rest of the story' to clear misconceptions. At least I was Totally bas ackwards, not half as backwards.!

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:30 pm

Actually the drum is plow sanding. You would have no control if it was climb sanding until the workpiece emerged. I wouldn't want to try that. JPG is right about the operating position though at least for longer pieces except that the right hand feeds and the left takes over and pulls the piece out. For shorter pieces a sled or just a "push plate" that is thinner than the work can be used and the piece is pushed all the way through.

JPG, I think you are being confused by the position of the dust manifold in the sketchup. It is completely reversible. When I drew it up, I envisioned it pointing off the free end but in practice it gives more operator room pointing out over the headstock. The headstock gives the hose great support as well.