Avoiding cost of thickness planer?
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Avoiding cost of thickness planer?
Is it workable to use the bandsaw to reduce the thickness of a board from 3/4" to just over 1/2" rather than buy an expensive planer that won't get used very much? With the bandsaw, hand plane, and belt sander it seems to me I could do it but I don't have much woodworking experience.
I have seen resawing of thick stock but I haven't seen anyone saw a tall narrow piece and am afraid it might be a no-no for some reason I don't know about. I would use a fence and a feather-board.
Would it be better to use narrow 3/4" thick stock that would run through my edge planer and glue up the 1/2" thick shelves like a tabletop? That would be a lot of passes for each piece and would seem to be hard on my blades.
Would appreciate knowledgable help.
I have seen resawing of thick stock but I haven't seen anyone saw a tall narrow piece and am afraid it might be a no-no for some reason I don't know about. I would use a fence and a feather-board.
Would it be better to use narrow 3/4" thick stock that would run through my edge planer and glue up the 1/2" thick shelves like a tabletop? That would be a lot of passes for each piece and would seem to be hard on my blades.
Would appreciate knowledgable help.
Mims, Florida
1977 Shopsmith with bandsaw, belt sander, joiner, and jig saw
1977 Shopsmith with bandsaw, belt sander, joiner, and jig saw
There's no reason why you couldn't resaw a 3/4 thick board. I like to use a pivot fence for most resawing. It allows you to move the board to accommodate for any drift the blade may have.
Do you have a router? If so, you can build a "planer" sled to smooth out the band saw's cut. Or, a hand plane would work, too. I like the sled better because I can more easily control the finished thickness.
Do you have a router? If so, you can build a "planer" sled to smooth out the band saw's cut. Or, a hand plane would work, too. I like the sled better because I can more easily control the finished thickness.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
'Tall' must be less than 6" if using a SS bandsaw.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- trainguytom
- Gold Member
- Posts: 324
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:22 pm
- Location: Central WI
Thickness planers
Re-sawing is often the way to go, but also consider that a benchtop 12-13" portable thickness planer may not be too pricey & prove to be a valuable asset to your shop. Finding rough cut lumber & planing it will pay for the planer in short order and give you much more flexibility in your projects by not having to rely on pre-dimensioned lumber yard materials.
My dad's 1951 10er, 2 more 10er's, same vintage, a Goldie MK5, a 510 shortie with 34inch tubes, bandsaw, jointer, jigsaw, belt sander, a ton of small SS goodies and still looking...you just can't have enough Shopsmith stuff
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
Heck... you don't even have to have a bandsaw.
For the thousand years before the last 150 they used something like this to resaw a wide board into thinner ones. With a good blade (like a section of modern bandsaw blade) it will cut faster than you might think. Commonly called a "frame saw".
[ATTACH]16335[/ATTACH]
Curved cuts were made with one like this "bow saw".
[ATTACH]16336[/ATTACH]
If you use your bandsaw to resaw a wide board be sure to use a tall fence / guide and be sure that it is parallel to the blade.
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For the thousand years before the last 150 they used something like this to resaw a wide board into thinner ones. With a good blade (like a section of modern bandsaw blade) it will cut faster than you might think. Commonly called a "frame saw".
[ATTACH]16335[/ATTACH]
Curved cuts were made with one like this "bow saw".
[ATTACH]16336[/ATTACH]
If you use your bandsaw to resaw a wide board be sure to use a tall fence / guide and be sure that it is parallel to the blade.
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- temp frame saw.jpeg (53.38 KiB) Viewed 3699 times
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- temp bow saw.png (50.14 KiB) Viewed 3696 times
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Vote for a planer
I have to agree with the idea of buying a planer. Most plans will call for thinner stock somewhere in the project. I bought a used planer for $75 at a garage sale and have used it a LOT! I look for deals on rough lumber at estate sales, auctions and local mills even if my finished dimension is still 3/4" thick. I'm still learning how to use the darn thing, and need to get new blades, but I use it all the time.
I would say think about the kinds of projects you intend to build and how much time you might save with a small planer. Also, in thinking about what you might do in the future, decide if you can make do with a 12" planer or need something bigger. Even a new 12" planer isn't too expensive in some of the low-end models.
I'd personally keep an eye on the local craigslist and pawn shops if I was in the market. You'll find a real deal.
Making your own lumber is FUN!
I would say think about the kinds of projects you intend to build and how much time you might save with a small planer. Also, in thinking about what you might do in the future, decide if you can make do with a 12" planer or need something bigger. Even a new 12" planer isn't too expensive in some of the low-end models.
I'd personally keep an eye on the local craigslist and pawn shops if I was in the market. You'll find a real deal.
Making your own lumber is FUN!
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.
I currently have two planers. The first was a rigid purchased new several years ago on special before I could afford a Shopsmith Pro. I will be selling the Rigid. It's a great machine yet takes a lot of space. The Shopsmith was used and needed some work. It is smaller and a real pleasure to use. I continue to be amazed at how much fun it is to plane wood for the perfect dimension for a given job. I love learning new things and the planer is a terrific tool for that process. As to what is best for you, I truly believe only you can make those decisions. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
I will also chime in on getting a planer. I got a great deal on a Delta on Craigs List and don't know what I would do without it now. In the meantime, maybe you could try a Wagner Safety Plane. It's slow going and takes some trial and error to learn how to use, but it is less expensive than a power planer.
Even if you resaw with the bandsaw, you will still need to get that sawed side smooth and parallel with the opposite side. But if you're comfortable doing that with hand tools, have at it!
Even if you resaw with the bandsaw, you will still need to get that sawed side smooth and parallel with the opposite side. But if you're comfortable doing that with hand tools, have at it!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration