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Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Mike

Installed shim, would rather not use unless absolutely needed, cut stem till bottoms out in piston.

With these casters will need to remove some of the front boot, wheel is still extended a bit past boot when fully retracted. At least sides of boot appear to clear wheel.

JPG

One thing that has not been suggested. Extend the "bottom" of the 'foot 0.300+'. That eliminates stem shortening. 5/16" comes to mind.

Regardless I think adding a sleeve to eliminate stem wobble in the piston bore will reduce the tendency of the piston to fracture.

JPG

Do I recall correctly that the caster clears the interior face(opposite side being altered). If so by how much?

Maybe we need to consider reducing the od of the wheels at their outer edges?

miken

Also, keep in mind, the closer the wheel axle is to the swivel rotation axis the stronger the wheel will be, and better able to support the added weight. It will also have less bending moment on the stem and less likely to crack the stem bushing (piston thing) which is already under designed in my opinion. Your wheel axle is a bolt with nut end. Take the wheel off and sand it down 1/2 inch. If that doesn't work, try moving the wheel axle.

Reducing the wheel diameter 1/2 inch will allow you to also move the wheel up 1/2 inch, and at least 1/4 inch closer to the swivel rotation center.

Mike

Mike's Wheel.jpg

jsburger

If you get too close to the swivel rotation center they won't swivel easily (or not at all) when you try to change directions. After all that is why they are off set to begin with.

Mike

JPG- about 3/8” clear wheel to interior

Far more wiggle on outside face of piston and I can shim that, also lots of slop in the bearings

Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot

Miken- if I removed the 1/4 to 1/2” diameter off wheel, probably no need to move the axel which could work. Just not quite there yet, still leaning towards a permanent fix if I can find one to live with. I believe the axel is placed away from centerline of stem to aid in swivel/turning so probably can’t change that.

Gonna pull off this and work on other assemblies

miken

jsburger wrote If you get too close to the swivel rotation center they won't swivel easily (or not at all) when you try to change directions. After all that is why they are off set to begin with.

Very true. The original wheels have an offset of 3/8. Wouldn't suggest getting closer than that.

Mike

miken

Mike wrote
. . . Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot . . .

Interesting, one of my Mark VII's has individual feet, and one has a single continuous foot that ties both frame rails together. Sounds similar to what your shooting for.

Mike

miken wrote
Mike wrote . . . Plan on adding bar stock on each end for stabilization and a continuous foot . . .
Interesting, one of my Mark VII's has individual feet, and one has a single continuous foot that ties both frame rails together. Sounds similar to what your shooting for.

Mike

LOL yes that’s exactly the concept I’m looking to replicate. Not sure why the individual feet? Mine had a piece of angle holding feet together at each end. With issues I’m having, and remedies I’m considering, maybe some 3/8-1/2” x 4-6” high aluminum or steel across the front will play well.

Mike

Got a little done today, a vision of casters dancing in my head. All things considered I like the main color. Using stainless steel SHCS wherever I can with lock nuts.

Mike

Casters, final answer. Comments good, bad or indifferent always welcomed and appreciated.

miken

Hi Mike, you already know my position, I would try to make the wheels fit rather than modify the frame, but with that said, I think your approach will work. Just be sure that when the wheel is in its lowest position it can completely spin around 360 degrees without hitting the inside of the shoe or else cutting will be for nothing. You never know what position/direction the wheel will be in when you lower the machine and you dont want it to bind or get jammed up and not lower completely.

Mike

Mike

I appreciate all your input Mike and it has made me think this through more than a few times. I’m still not 100% and of course I have measured twice many times. The only issues are the lips on each side and the front of shoe. I want to make the shoe fit the casters not the casters fit the shoe. This way in the future it’s an easy fix to just replace the casters. Still thinking about it so cleaning parts for now, have plenty to do.:-) thanks again

Mike

Just an update with some pics- shoe modification complete, it goes up and down (still need to install final resting feet) She goes up and down and rolls all around very smoothly and better than the other (4) SS I have.

Have some mock-ups for butcher block inside vacuum box and at each end. Will also have pieces under brackets that rod trunnion. This will help my back down the road. I end up pushing the centerline of the seat for the rod trunnion over towards outside about 1/16” each end. I’m not sure if there is enough play to accomplish what I want to do but thought I would put it out there for comment.

Thanks

miken

Nice work Mike, steady progress. FYI, if you just slightly bevel the top of the board under the brackets to have slight inward slope it will rotate the bracket and pull the center of the bracket holes in the 1/16" you're looking for. You actually may be able to achieve this by adjusting how tight the bolt is and slightly deforming/compressing the wood under the bracket.

Mike -

JPG

To say nothing about the sheet metal flexing.

Mike

Thanks Mike and JPG, I’ll do a 2 sided mock-up 2 verify how much play if any. Nothing set in stone but I like the concept. The Mark VII has so much storage potential and the overall design, other than the vacuum, is spectacular. Starting to really like this machine.

bigk01

Very timely thread for me

Very nice restoration so far

I recently acquired a mkvii (60’s version) in about the same condition as yours

Price was right ($0) and I figured it would be a “parts” machine for my other ‘67 mkvii

Came with 2 extra switches but nothing was working when I got it

After a few days of messing around the motor started running after I bypassed the switch with jumper’s

The “extra” switches show signs of trying to be taken apart

The one that is currently connected to the motor also has problems

Both the bases on these machines (around the caster area) look different from the pictures you have posted

Anyway, long story short, I can maybe help out with some parts. I’m not too far. I live in Santa Maria, Ca

JPG

Some M VII have a one piece foot on each end.

Mike

Hi Bigk01- I was in Santa Maria today at the south Vallarta market and looking at cars. Not sure what parts you have but would be interested in some I’m sure. I’ll send you a PM

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