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Mark VII a start and a long ways to go..

Mike

So I'm trying to get the quill spring into housing and my hands are cut up a bit now. I looked everywhere for some instructions but only stuff I found close were comments about finding religion and another comment or two that were not very encouraging. Shopsmith doesn't sell the spring by itself and I'm guessing for a few reasons. I have no problem taking another go at it but was wondering if there was a better way? Per pick, just tightening it around and around and then try and get the housing to slip on... no luck so far.

spring into housing.jpg

JPG

Working from memory here, but IIRC I separated the spring housing from everything else and slipped the outer hook end into the slot, then gradually slipped the rest around the inside edges of the spring until it was entirely coiled inside the housing. A bit tricky getting the hook end fully into the slot to start.

Now all thee needs to worry about is getting the spring notch onto the shaft pin.

Mike

Thank you so much JPG! Hopefully I can do it and not get bit again. My better half keeps questioning my mental faculties every time I come bleeding into the house. I try and explain that though I’m not the sharpest tool in the box it’s the skin getting thinner that allows a scratch turn into a cut these days.

Mike

Used this little 10 minute tool, saved me time and prevented appendages from gittin bit

Coiled spring 1st on shaft with tool, then slid housing right on 1st try. Took it off because I put in on ass backwards, was able to put it back on slick as windshield wipers on a duck’s ass on second try.

Gorilla tape to keep a little tension on spring so it doesn’t slip off nub for install

Traced housing to get curve on tool close to what was needed.

The holes drawn on sketch were to be used to attach bar stock but it was pretty easy to use as is.

Wear gloves and eye protection because you just never know.

Mike

Was right the 1st time on direction of spring. Took me awhile to figure out drawing is wrong as far as my machine and that was what kept me returning numerous times to wrong direction. Anyway maybe help someone that lacks experience, like me, down the road.

Mike

Made some good progress today. Hoping I have everything set up right way for low and high speed. Dial works great with wavy ring under it instead of outside face. It turns easier without grinding too much on the nub stops. An incredibly fun, mechanically, machine to play with so far. Thanks again to JPG for all his documentation on his build. Without it I would have taken it to the desert and shot it and buried it.. maybe

miken

Nice job Mike, you're in the home stretch, keep it up.

Mike -

Mike

Thanks seems like it’s taking forever but I’m gettin there

Mike

Getting closer, it was quite the chore to get the belt on and I had dial maxed. Now my dilemma is can I turn it on high then reduce speed? I can’t turn it down right now when it’s stationary. Any thoughts greatly appreciated

miken

You are supposed to put the large diameter sanding disk on the spindle and use that with one hand to manually spin the spindle while turning the speed dial back down.

Mike

Mike

Thank you Mike, I was hoping it would be something easier.

JPG

With no load it should start at max speed. Not recommended to do so often.

Mike

I think I might have the wrong belt.... 29.5, that's the way I read the posts but will review

lahola1

I cant find my notes but I'm almost positive my MKVII has a 29.5" belt.

still the same belt that came with it when I bought it in 2017. Haven't had it apart in a few years.

BTW. your MKVII looks great. :)

miken

I believe the concensus is 29.5". I have two original belts and both measure out closer to 30". Perhaps they are stretched?

Mike -

BTW, the width of the belt appears to play a significant role in the final spindle speed. I went down this rabbit hole unsuccessfully once before.

Mike

Thanks for the comments.

Not sure, I used this one from the end of the dissertation on Mark Vii belts and it seems much heavier and I have to open up the the Control Sheave all the way to put it on and can't close it down as it gets stuck between both halves.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOVLUOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gd-ZBb92VHR0J

The original, I still have, was much less robust and I'm thinking maybe a 30.5 might do better. one step forward and a couple back.:-)

jsburger

Robustness does not have anything to do with the proper belt length and width. The length affects tension and the width affects the speeds obtained with a Reeves drive.

JPG

Mike wrote Thanks for the comments.

Not sure, I used this one from the end of the dissertation on Mark Vii belts and it seems much heavier and I have to open up the the Control Sheave all the way to put it on and can't close it down as it gets stuck between both halves.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOVLUOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gd-ZBb92VHR0J

The original, I still have, was much less robust and I'm thinking maybe a 30.5 might do better. one step forward and a couple back.:-)

Yes you should have to open up the motor pulley fully to get the belt on with the control sheave set to high. That allows one to push the belt into the sheaves and slip it on fully. Then the belt should ride close to the outer periphery of the motor pulley.

From your link I am not sure what that belt measurements are.

4L295 should be a 1/2 x 29.5 inch belt.

P.S. ideally(original design) the belt should be about 9/16" wide.

lahola1

If I was going to get a new belt I would try a metric one. 13MM = .512". I believe the old SS belts were slightly wider than 1/2" (.500") I believe that slightly wider belt is important to get the slow speed as close to 700RPM as possible.

Mike

JPG wrote
Mike wrote
Thanks for the comments.

Not sure, I used this one from the end of the dissertation on Mark Vii belts and it seems much heavier and I have to open up the the Control Sheave all the way to put it on and can't close it down as it gets stuck between both halves.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOVLUOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gd-ZBb92VHR0J

The original, I still have, was much less robust and I'm thinking maybe a 30.5 might do better. one step forward and a couple back.:-)

Yes you should have to open up the motor pulley fully to get the belt on with the control sheave set to high. That allows one to push the belt into the sheaves and slip it on fully. Then the belt should ride close to the outer periphery of the motor pulley.

From your link I am not sure what that belt measurements are.

4L295 should be a 1/2 x 29.5 inch belt.

P.S. ideally(original design) the belt should be about 9/16" wide.

I think I have it ass backwards- I opened up the control sheave by putting it on high, put belt on it while wide open, and then worked the belt around the motor pulley. I need to do some rethinking.

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