JPG
wHY DO YOU THINK THE CAP IS BAD?
HAVE YOU VERIFIED THE START SWITCH IS MADE?
DOUBLE CHECK THE DIRECTION SWITCH CONTACTS ABS WIRING ARE CORRECT.
CAPACITORS RARELY GO BAD.
Mike
JPG thank you for the assist!
Not sure if cap is bad but figured while it’s apart might as well replace it.
The start switch is made? Motor ran beautifully, a little bump run then off, till I put switch in housing. I had it out, but wired up,to bump start it off and on to make sure switch worked. After it was installed in housing motor would just buzz with no rotation. Took it out of housing and it still just buzzed.
Wiring appears correct based on the drawings.
JPG
Need to continuity check switch contacts in all positions. The L1/L2 contacts are working. It is the other 5 contacts that need checking.
lahola1
Hi Mike,
How do you know the start relay you got on Ebay is good?
My mkVII had a bad relay switch when I got it.. Here is a link to my thread on resolving my problem. I don't know if it will help you with your problem. It looks like the mars relay I got is not available but if you need one just look for one with the specs JPG gave me.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=22297
miken
I'd suggest bench testing the switch with a continuity tester for each position checking which terminals should be open or closed for each position. The internal sliding plates and contacts for these switches is really complex. My contacts on a couple terminals were worn to a point where I was getting inconsistent continuity. I built the contacts back up using solder, filed down to flatten, and it's worked fine ever since.
Mike
Mike
Thanks for all the info!
JPG I will check out switch, I've been putting it off as electrical has never been my thing, but it's time to learn some new tricks. I'll look for a utube video to figure it out.
Lahola1, I did read your thread, it was of great help, and used that info to purchase a "new, old stock" relay.
Miken I do not have your skills by a long shot. I'm going to try the continuity thing, the drilling hole and cleaning thing to repair, if it goes beyond that I think it will become an on/off machine.
May not get it done till March as I have some maintenance/repairs getting done at Stanford starting the 3rd of Feb.
Thank you all, I now have a direction to go, what a great forum:-)
JPG
If push comes to shove, send me the switch and I will attempt to make it operable(no guarantees other than best effort).
FWIW connecting wires sans switch will prove if it will work.(takes place of switch)
Mike
Thank you JPG, greatly appreciated. Will try to teach this old dog new tricks. It’s something I should have learned long ago and I have plenty of time to learn now. May be a bit but I’ll gitter done.;-)
Mike
Walking and chewing gum, pic of tops that are not finished. Everything seems to function as it should hopefully get to electrical later today. Bout all I can do till later on in the month.
Danimal713
JPG- thanks for pushing Gary to stock the poly belt for Mark VII. I did indeed purchase a new one when I was rebuilding a Mark VII I picked up on a road trip through OH. I successfully did bearings and it is more quiet. I saw some posts about drive belt length on forum and seemed 29.5" was the one so I bought one. After I got it back together, it drops off at saw speed. It seemed like the sheaves were moving too far apart. I pushed it into a corner and it got buried under other projects/stuff. I recently unburied it (just like an archeological dig!) and started messing with it, I had found some VII parts (lucky with right time/right place) in Corbin KY just south of you. The guy purchased a storage unit that had delinquent payment and had no use for them. It had the missing tables/miter gauge/fence etc. I was missing and one end and a MOTOR!!! all for $30. The wiring on motor is bare and insulation brittle so I need to redo before I try to fire it. The switch is crap but might be good for parts. Anyway...... it has a motor belt and I compared sizes and it is slightly shorter than the 29.5" I purchased. Then the mechanics of how the sheaves work (BAM OUCH!). I have used SSmith tools over 47 years and been repairing/refurbishing over 23 now but mostly Mark V. The belt is too long. DANG-NAB-IT!
So all this to ask if you know the correct length of the drive belt for a VII? I'll try to get a good measurement today when I hit the shop. Eventually I will paint the base so it all looks nice. I painted the motor carcass and it came out very nice. I use Rustoleum Textured Dark Pewter and it is a very close match- mostly to Mark V in late 70s and up. The Mark Vii and early 70s Mark V look to be a darker gray. Thanks for sharing the info you have especially on the VII. Since Bill Mayo passed it left a huge hole.
JPG
I seem to have buried my original MVII part # belts 'somewhere". :>{
I am curious why the belt slips at saw speed. What is the positioning of the belt on the motor pulley and the control sheave pulley when it slips? Does it slip at faster/d=slower speeds as well?
P.S. also curious re the width of the belt.
Mike
I’m back after having some body parts altered and feelin purdy good so started back slowly this week. Finished up wood tops bolted from underside and finished, all operates as it should, very solid, though had to grind off a little on backside of aluminum foot to get wheels to operate 100%
Finished motor goes forward and the other way plus purrs like a cat. Does have a little clacking-clack noise after I shut it off. I’m thinking that may be rattle in the switch. Thank you again JPG, Miken and everybody else that have helped me so much.
Next installing new rack on upper tube after my riveting tool comes in on Monday.
A few pics:-)
29.5” belt? Is there a spec for this?
miken
Looking good. Glad your back at it.
Mike
JPG
"Click" or "clack"?
Click likely switch.
Clack likely sheaves. Made worse by worn key/keyway.
Mike
JPG- I need to be more clear on my written sounds :-) Clickity clack- I’m thinking switch but not sure if that’s a problem down the road. I had some tubing and stuck one end in my ear, and I could see to the other side plus clickity clack sounds closer to switch.
Miken- thanks
JPG
My vote is start switch. Two distinct sounds - click then clack.
Mike
Ok, this is my 1st switch of this type, is the switch good to go?
Mike
I was able to install new rack, hoping it will work ok, it’s about 1/16 difference between 1st a last hole. I had started to drill before I noticed so had to drill all new holes…..dumb mistake
Thank you JPG for the heads up on using a roll pin to tap flush and a cut off one to make up for rack height. It avoided another oops.
Found an old post card awhile back and these VII’s would be a great buy today at yesterday’s pricing. :-)
Quick question- that clickity clack noise from switch, when turning off, is not a problem?
miken
Love the old school pencil sharpener attached to the work bench. I'm not sure about the switch noises, they are noisy as the fwd/Rev interlock plate is striking the stop when you turn the key, then there are other sounds when pressing the buttons, and the buttons can rattle a bit as they aren't really tight. Give it shot and see what happens, quick on/off.
[Edit] reread your previous post and see you already have it running.
Mike
Mike
I think my dad had that pencil sharpener, still works great. Funny how they just don’t make things like……..
