Shopsmith Forums

Great explanation, John!

I've never seen one done that way and I like it! What a fun project!

I like that too! What kind of bit are you using in the chuck to cut the threads??

Nice job! And note the explanation of Gale's Law in my signature.

Glad to hear you solved the problem and didn't even have to buy new blades. When algale said, Think kerf work very well. I believe he meant thin or narrow kerf blades. Taking a narrower cut (3/32" as opposed to 1/8") they use less power to do it. Yup, typo by me. Glad the new blade seems ...

My blade could be too dull. What would be recommended and I will go get a new blade to try? I am ripping, unit is grey, no riving knife, speed dial set on saw. So there is a riving knife that is part of the 510 upper saw guard. When properly aligned it makes a world of difference when ripping real ...

I've had some breakage of belts at the seems.

Your 510 should be able to cut 1.5" thick mahogany. Here are some possible issues to look into: 1. Dull saw blade. 2. Improper alignment. 3. Improper speed setting (either on the dial face or improper low speed adjustment messing everything up). 4. Failure to use a splitter/riving knife and ten...

Some of the older Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone has plans for making your own. You basically turn a wooden one and wrap the sandpaper around it.

...or splurge on the Shopsmith 6" drum sander.

Yes, I have used this technique. It definitely works. You want to take thin passes -- barely making contact between the drum and the stock. Even still, it makes piles/clouds of sawdust that the dust collector struggles to keep up with.