late model motor wiring

alfatipo · Post by **alfatipo** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:18 pm

JPG, your mark ups of my motor photos are pretty accurate;

How many wires are coming out of the motor windings? - 4

Is a wire from the motor windings connected to the terminal on the capacitor that is NOT connected to the terminal board(outside). [Wire C] - Yes

Are wires W and B coming from the motor windings? - Yes

Does wire M come from the motor windings? - Yes

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 11:07 pm

alfatipo wrote:JPG, your mark ups of my motor photos are pretty accurate] 4[/B]

Is a wire from the motor windings connected to the terminal on the capacitor that is NOT connected to the terminal board(outside). [Wire C] - Yes

Are wires W and B coming from the motor windings? - Yes

Does wire M come from the motor windings? - Yes

I believe all the wires are correct, and Wire W and Wire B that pass through the terminal board square hole are the power in leads.

Just to make sure, measure the resistance between Wire W and Wire M. Should be around 6 ohms.

Measure the resistance between the two blue wires(should be zero).

Measure the resistance between Wire W and either Wire B(should be around 1/2 ohm).

power cord black to one switch black. power cord white to Wire W(or jumper them with the white pigtail that came with the new switch).

Other switch black to Wire B.
[ATTACH]14623[/ATTACH]

alfatipo · Post by **alfatipo** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 12:21 pm

power cord black to one switch black. power cord white to Wire W(or jumper them with the white pigtail that came with the new switch).

I take it that the white power cord lead can also go to the switch and then to Wire W? That would make use of the DP of the DPST switch.

One remaining point for clarification; the colored tape on some wires I assume that white is neutral (white power cord cable) and blue is hot (black power cord cable)?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Oct 31, 2011 12:36 am

alfatipo wrote:I take it that the white power cord lead can also go to the switch and then to Wire W? That would make use of the DP of the DPST switch.

One remaining point for clarification]white is neutral [/B](white power cord cable) and blue is hot (black power cord cable)?

IMHO yes. Question is, who/what marked them so? If Emerson then definitely.

Most important is proper identification by resistance measurements. Both the run windings and the start winding should be connected to the 'neutral' white labeled wire.

Unclear to me is if the two blue labeled wires are connected to each other, or each go to a run winding(there are two). In any event both run windings must be connected to the 'hot' power input. At one time they were connected to each other and the hot input by one on the internal side of the terminal board, the second on the external side, the start switch was also so connected. Thus those terminals(one screw/nut, two 'pigtails' and a rivet to the start switch) connected 4 things to each other. If the two blue labeled wires are not connected to each other, but are each connected to a run winding, they must be connected to each other as well as to the start switch and to the power cord 'hot'.

Hope all that is not confusing, but I believe it covers the possibilities.

As I said above, resistance measurements will nail it down.

alfatipo · Post by **alfatipo** » Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:30 am

Throwing caution to the wind but pretty sure it would work I hooked up the new power cable (nice orange w/black stripe extension 14 gauge cable from Home Depot) and threw the switch. Purrfect!

I avoided using the pigtails supplied with the new safety switch as I wanted to limit the number of connectors in the hope that less would mean more reliability and less potential power loss.

I also added a stick on mount for a cable tie to keep the cables away from spinning machinery. This was placed on the casing near the speed control. Close to where the new switch instructions indicated the original one should be.

This is interesting as I have not seen a post that mentions this and most posts suggest just make sure the wires are clear of the quill etc.

There also seemed to be the outline where a stick-on cable clip had been.

I feel a lot more confident that wire/machinery contact is far less likely now.

eBay has what seems to be an aftermarket safety switch. Copy indicated that it would '...instant stop to any tool.' Any one used this? Picture below.

Thanks to JPG for his help, I'm glad to be part of the Shopsmith community.

Hopefully I can now get on with my first project!