Aligning the Mark 5/V on an Uneven Floor
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- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Aligning the Mark 5/V on an Uneven Floor
I would venture a guess that most of us are not blessed with flat, level floors in our shops. A couple of us but not most of us.
Given that fact, I am wondering if anyone has trouble maintaining table alignments that can be directly attributed to the resulting instability brought about by one leg hanging free. My Mark V now teeters back and forth a bit on two diagonally opposing legs.
I just rearranged the shop and I now have that issue. There have been no alignment issues yet but they seem inevitable if I don't create some firm footing. I guess before I was just lucky and the four legs all rested firmly on the floor.
Given that fact, I am wondering if anyone has trouble maintaining table alignments that can be directly attributed to the resulting instability brought about by one leg hanging free. My Mark V now teeters back and forth a bit on two diagonally opposing legs.
I just rearranged the shop and I now have that issue. There have been no alignment issues yet but they seem inevitable if I don't create some firm footing. I guess before I was just lucky and the four legs all rested firmly on the floor.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty...there is not a level spot on my garage floor and I'm contantly changing the position of the SS because of clutter or because of a work piece that bumps into something else. I live with rocking in one spot and then another but it has never presented me with a change in alignment. I have not however placed heavy weights on areas of the SS that would cause stresses on the frame enough to cause alignment issues.
I can't attribute it directly to the floor, but I suspect that I might have had that kind of an issue. I have a low side on my floor and I have had fewer alignment issues since I blocked up that end of the SS. (1/4 in plywood under one end) I spent a lot of time looking at all the material on alignment and got better tools for doing that at the same time. I try to keep the table level in both directions as well. Before the block, would sometimes wobble as you describe.
I changed the way I move the table, which may have been as big an issue as the block. I do not pull on the table at all , I go to the carriage. I have so many things I am learning about, that I can't be sure what all is fixing what!
.
I changed the way I move the table, which may have been as big an issue as the block. I do not pull on the table at all , I go to the carriage. I have so many things I am learning about, that I can't be sure what all is fixing what!
.
Saw dust heals many wounds. RLTW
Dave
Dave
Great advice Dave, I also have learned to never ever pull on a table. Until my injury I always placed one hand on the headstock and the other on the carriage. Now I raise the primary table and move them separately. It drives my bride nuts when I use my six foot level to check the tables for being level to one another. Note they are never totally level as even a brand new shop floor isn't perfectly level. Still they work fine when the work surface is flat and the blade is perpendicular to the tables. Fjimpdlbristol wrote:I can't attribute it directly to the floor, but I suspect that I might have had that kind of an issue. I have a low side on my floor and I have had fewer alignment issues since I blocked up that end of the SS. (1/4 in plywood under one end) I spent a lot of time looking at all the material on alignment and got better tools for doing that at the same time. I try to keep the table level in both directions as well. Before the block, would sometimes wobble as you describe.
I changed the way I move the table, which may have been as big an issue as the block. I do not pull on the table at all , I go to the carriage. I have so many things I am learning about, that I can't be sure what all is fixing what!
.
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I have previously expressed the opinion that the frame(bench tubes and end castings) must be properly aligned and that the legs will accommodate small floor irregularities. I now believe those irregularities must be very small or the teetering Dusty described will occur(I have encountered greater floor variation recently myself).
Question is, does prolonged teetering condition introduce changes in the alignment of the frame. I do not think that any bending will occur, but slippage of the clamps might alter the alignment.
The alignment of the way tubes etc. will not change unless the bench tubes and castings move relative to each other This assumes secure clamping of the tiebar.
So I guess the prudent approach is to shim it by whatever it takes.
I would shim it just to eliminate the teetering(could be a safety issue!).
In all likely hood, a small amount of teetering will not alter alignment.
FWIW 'Level' is not an issue, co-planer is. Checking with a level should show any deviation between tables etc. Here is where a high resolution level(like a Wixey etc.) comes in handy.
Question is, does prolonged teetering condition introduce changes in the alignment of the frame. I do not think that any bending will occur, but slippage of the clamps might alter the alignment.
The alignment of the way tubes etc. will not change unless the bench tubes and castings move relative to each other This assumes secure clamping of the tiebar.
So I guess the prudent approach is to shim it by whatever it takes.
I would shim it just to eliminate the teetering(could be a safety issue!).
In all likely hood, a small amount of teetering will not alter alignment.
FWIW 'Level' is not an issue, co-planer is. Checking with a level should show any deviation between tables etc. Here is where a high resolution level(like a Wixey etc.) comes in handy.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Stabilizers to Compensate for Uneven Floors
I have stabilized my Mark V despite the floor where I now have the Shopsmith located. The stabilizers are NOT elegant but they are functional. They also serve to compensate for the fact that the floor slopes about 3/4" over the length of the floor (provides drainage when the snow off the car melts:rolleyes:).
The bottom of each stabilizer is mitered and then beveled to match the Mark V legs.
I made one of the mounting holes a slot so that the stabilizer is adjustable. The other mounting hole was drilled after the stabilizer was in place. This means that the stabilizers may not work without modification if the Mark V is moved very far.
I do not routinely relocate the Mark V and do not have casters installed so this method, while not elegant, works fine.
[ATTACH]14634[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]14635[/ATTACH]
After stabilizing the Mark V a quick check of table alignment reveals that "it is still properly aligned".
[ATTACH]14636[/ATTACH]
The bottom of each stabilizer is mitered and then beveled to match the Mark V legs.
I made one of the mounting holes a slot so that the stabilizer is adjustable. The other mounting hole was drilled after the stabilizer was in place. This means that the stabilizers may not work without modification if the Mark V is moved very far.
I do not routinely relocate the Mark V and do not have casters installed so this method, while not elegant, works fine.
[ATTACH]14634[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]14635[/ATTACH]
After stabilizing the Mark V a quick check of table alignment reveals that "it is still properly aligned".
[ATTACH]14636[/ATTACH]
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- Mark V Stabilizers 001 (Custom).JPG (60.68 KiB) Viewed 1553 times
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- Mark V Stabilizers 002 (Custom).JPG (59.32 KiB) Viewed 1552 times
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- Mark V Stabilizers 003 (Custom) (2).JPG (83.15 KiB) Viewed 1553 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35433
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
DC hose attached to leg of MV
Do tell us about 'the tail'!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I think that you might be asking about the dust collector hose? If not, I don't know what to say.JPG40504 wrote:Do tell us about 'the tail'!
The dust collector hose is about 8' long and connects where you see it with the other end connector to the DC3300. On the inside of what you see in the pictures, where you cannot see, is another hose that is routed up to the head stock. This hose is attached with cable ties to the rear bench tube to keep it off the floor.
In the beginning, I was planning on making some wooden hangars to suspend the hose along the ways but the ties have worked fine.
The hose that is connected to the left leg of the Mark V is relocated to the jointer whenever I am using that. The jointer resides "permanently" on the left end of the Mark V. I no longer move that heavy beast (the jointer) unless I really have to.
Sure hope this is what you were asking about.

"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35433
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
dusty wrote:I think that you might be asking about the dust collector hose? If not, I don't know what to say.
The dust collector hose is about 8' long and connects where you see it with the other end connector to the DC3300. On the inside of what you see in the pictures, where you cannot see, is another hose that is routed up to the head stock. This hose is attached with cable ties to the rear bench tube to keep it off the floor.
In the beginning, I was planning on making some wooden hangars to suspend the hose along the ways but the ties have worked fine.
The hose that is connected to the left leg of the Mark V is relocated to the jointer whenever I am using that. The jointer resides "permanently" on the left end of the Mark V. I no longer move that heavy beast (the jointer) unless I really have to.
Sure hope this is what you were asking about.:rolleyes:
You nailed it!;) It was that which I could not see that prompted the request for info.
Nice setup! I need the casters so I will have to 'improvise'. I am just now getting serious re DC and am mentally exploring 'options'.!
Thanks!
P.S. I 'explained' the tail in the title of that post!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
[quote="JPG40504"]You nailed it!]The casters change nothing at all. That hose arrangement was there when I had the casters mounted.
I moved the casters to the other Mark V because I roll it around to different locations in the shop depending on what I am using it for (usually a drill press or sanding station).
I moved the casters to the other Mark V because I roll it around to different locations in the shop depending on what I am using it for (usually a drill press or sanding station).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.