Bandsaw blades: SS 5/8" .vs. Highland Woodworking 1/2" WoodSlicer

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

Moderator: admin

Post Reply
bffulgham
Gold Member
Posts: 459
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:18 am
Location: Amarillo, TX area

Bandsaw blades: SS 5/8" .vs. Highland Woodworking 1/2" WoodSlicer

Post by bffulgham »

I'm in the middle of building a barrister bookcase, and need 4 x 3/8 slats for the bookcase back. I will be resawing soft maple and I picked up a couple of 2" wide scraps that had been thru my lunchbox planer and got it down to 25/32 to do some testing with.

I wanted to contrast/compare the 5/8" ShopSmith blade (SS555421) with a 1/2" Highland Woodworking Wood Slicer. Both brand new, fresh out of the packing.

I followed the SS bandsaw owner's manual for set-up. And also followed the setup instructionsfor the Wood Slicer. I did this for both blades.

Here's a macro shot of the 2 slabs from the SS blade:
[ATTACH]14754[/ATTACH]

This one a little farther away:
[ATTACH]14755[/ATTACH]

Here's a macro shot of the 2 slabs from the Wood Slicer:
[ATTACH]14753[/ATTACH]

This one a little farther away:
[ATTACH]14756[/ATTACH]

As you can see, the cut from the SS blade was not quite as 'clean' as the Wood Slicer, but is actually quite acceptable for resawing.

I could tell no difference in the width of the kerf between blades. Holding the slabs together and measuring with my calipers, they both came in exactly at 3/4". Both blades took out 1/32" in the cut.

The SS blade required absolutely no adjustment for lead. The fence was parallel to the grooves in the table.

I had to adjust the fence for about 3/16" difference end-to-end on the table to adjust for lead on the WS.

Which one will I use to do the back slats? The Wood Slicer.
Why, because it is the one on the saw and I don't have to re-setup to use the SS. I'm not lazy, just frugal with my time :D
Attachments
IMG_6921.jpg
IMG_6921.jpg (42.97 KiB) Viewed 6216 times
IMG_6922.jpg
IMG_6922.jpg (47.79 KiB) Viewed 6117 times
IMG_6923.jpg
IMG_6923.jpg (58.4 KiB) Viewed 6238 times
IMG_6924.jpg
IMG_6924.jpg (49.91 KiB) Viewed 6121 times
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
Top
Gene Howe
Platinum Member
Posts: 3219
Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:52 pm
Location: Snowflake, AZ

Post by Gene Howe »

Thanks Bud. Glad you spent some of that time to post the review.:D
I like the SS 5/8". Never used the WS. though.
Gene

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
Top
User avatar
beeg
Platinum Member
Posts: 4790
Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:33 pm
Location: St. Louis,Mo.

Post by beeg »

Bud, thanks for the comparison. Looks like to me I'll knot spend the $$ for the WS blade.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
Top
mustangpalmer1911
Gold Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2011 5:45 am
Location: Scranton(area), Pa

Post by mustangpalmer1911 »

Thanks for the review and the photos. Really help a FNG like me make better decisions.
Top
bffulgham
Gold Member
Posts: 459
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:18 am
Location: Amarillo, TX area

Post by bffulgham »

Forgot to mention in my first post....
The Wood Slicer is quieter....just as they claim in their propaganda....errr....product info :rolleyes:

And, listening to the motor, (I've got it on the SS power stand with the 1/2 horse motor), it was not working as hard with the WS.

Could possibly make a difference on a really hard piece of wood. When I get to the plinth on the bookcase, I'll need to trim down a chunk of of 8/4 hard maple. Will try to remember to let you know if there was any difference...
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
Top
bobgroh
Gold Member
Posts: 400
Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 1:12 pm
Location: Just east of Kansas City, Missouri

Post by bobgroh »

Thanks for the unbiased information and the nice pictures. A great help.
Bob Groh
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)

--------------------------------------------
1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
Top
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Post by reible »

Hi,

I'd be interested in how your band saw is set up. Have you upgraded the guide bushings(cool blocks, ceramic), added the double bearings, or any other sorts of modifications of thing or is pretty much stock.

What fence system are you using?

I have yet to mount my woodslicer much less tension and adjust it on my shopsmith bandsaw. I have one that I have used on my other brand bandsaw and found it takes a bit of time to learn how to get it cutting spot on... the little part about the power on flutter test and getting rid of that last bit of jitter is key to getting really great cuts. I'm looking forward to getting to that point on the shopsmith, any hints you can pass along would be most helpful.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Top
bffulgham
Gold Member
Posts: 459
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:18 am
Location: Amarillo, TX area

Stock Bandsaw

Post by bffulgham »

reible wrote:I'd be interested in how your band saw is set up. Have you upgraded the guide bushings(cool blocks, ceramic), added the double bearings, or any other sorts of modifications of thing or is pretty much stock.

Ed,
This bandsaw is stock...no updates, no upgrades. I assume the PO (Previous Owner) bought it as part of a package deal...the serial # on my 510 says it is an early 1998 model. The 5/8 SS blade (still in the factory package) was part of the 'package' when I got the system, as was the fence and table extension.

I've got it mounted on the SS power stand I bought in the early 80s.
[ATTACH]14772[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]14773[/ATTACH]

Did anyone notice my Yuba RAS in the background?
Attachments
IMG_6925.jpg
IMG_6925.jpg (49.91 KiB) Viewed 6068 times
IMG_6926.jpg
IMG_6926.jpg (40.09 KiB) Viewed 6082 times
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
Top
User avatar
wlhayesmfs
Platinum Member
Posts: 667
Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:50 am
Location: Broken Arrow OK

Post by wlhayesmfs »

Yes I did on the RAS but mine is Gray have not gotten the Gold one yet but still looking
Bill :)
Broken Arrow OK
MKV, 510, MKVll, 50th Anniversary 520 with Jointech saw train, Bandsaw, scroll saw, joiner, 6" Sander,Stand Alone Pin Router and Router Table, Strip Sander, Jigsaw & (4) ER's plus Jigsaw for ER. DC SS RAS
Top
Gene Howe
Platinum Member
Posts: 3219
Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 7:52 pm
Location: Snowflake, AZ

Post by Gene Howe »

Bud,
While my SS 5/8" does well for most woods, I use a Suffolk Machinery 1/2X4 bi metal blade for re sawing mesquite, Boise d' Arc and "ironwood".
So far, I've never run in to any metal in resawing, but that's another reason for using the Suffolk Blade.
Gene

'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
Top
Post Reply

Return to “Woodworking Tool Review”