Bandsaw compatibility

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

robinson46176 wrote:No mounting holes to put the post in and no left side 5/8" spindle.
.
OKAY...that's the show stopper. It is really hard to do without a drive spindle!
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:OKAY...that's the show stopper. It is really hard to do without a drive spindle!

The short list was in post #3!;)


Granted in different context!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

dusty wrote:OKAY...that's the show stopper. It is really hard to do without a drive spindle!


The adapter setup is really cute. You would be impressed. :)


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:OKAY...that's the show stopper. It is really hard to do without a drive spindle!
Get Paul to show you pix of his 10er coupler and spt mount. It is really a slick solution and I am sure works quite well. I intend to duplicate it myself.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
chipmaster
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Post by chipmaster »

Okay, here's the info from the user's group:

[ATTACH]14935[/ATTACH]

"Critical to the proper use of this adapter is the ability to run your 10ER motor in reverse direction. Otherwise, the bandsaw blade will run backwards. You would have similar issues arising with some of the other Mark V accessories. I used a DPDT toggle switch from Radio Shack after I chased down a wiring diagram and instructions from the 1948 motor manufacturer that supplied Shopsmith in those days. Whatever motor you now have, you need to either go through this process, or more sensibly, find a local technician who can do it for you.

I installed the reversing switch through a hole I drilled on the BACK side of the spindle housing, an inch or so above the way bars. The cast iron housing is easy to drill.

The link between the 10ER drive shaft and the Mark V bandsaw is the usual Mark V shopsmith-supplied plastic power adapter.

One unexpected benefit of this experiment was that when I bought a Mark V safety miter grip system with the primary intention to install the Mark V safety grip on my 10ER saw table slide bar, the leftover 10ER miter gage could be made to mate onto the Mark V slide bar that came with the Mark V safety grip. This gave me a 10ER miter gage I could run in the Mark V bandsaw table slots.

The red oak Mark V accessory adapter has held up nicely for over 15 years. I once proposed to the Shopsmith company that they consider manufacturing this design. They had no problem with the design, but their attorneys at the time said that they wanted to distance themselves from any possible liability involved in supplying ANYTHING for a half-century old machine. So I kept and used the prototype ever since.

I didn't supply dimensions. Obviously, vertical and horizontal alignment of the accessory holes is critical. The back side of the oak adapter needs to fit precisely into the inverted tailstock slide/rails. The two thumbscrews may not be necessary, but I felt a lot safer with them in place. If you choose to run a jointer or belt sander, for example, you may need to install a more powerful drive motor. You may also need a fresh drive belt that doesn't slip. I've been told that the 10ER bearing structure can handle up to a 1 1/2 hp motor. This comes from a long-time 10ER owner, builder, and 10ER repair technician in the local area.

Once you complete your DIY oak adapter, you've now expanded the capability of your 10ER enormously. This should enhance its MARKET VALUE, as well as its personal value to you and possibly a lucky heir.

Respectfully,

Lewis Graber
Frisco, Texas"


I hope Mr. Graber doesn't mind me copying his post.

v/r,

Rick
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Thank You for that! I doubt the author would object to your posting it here.

The one that Shipwright inherited mounts on the other end, so the motor direction issue doesn't exist. The mounting bolt is a table height adjusting crank screw and that also puts the squeeze on the mounting posts. The hub for the coupler is attached to the standard quill pulley. Nothing else is modified!
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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reible
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Post by reible »

This is the 3 step pulley with coupler from a 10ER. You need to cut the pulley guard so this can be used.

[ATTACH]14936[/ATTACH]


Ed
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chipmaster
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Post by chipmaster »

Holy Cow! Is that a factory piece or a custom job? I've never owned any SS equipment other than my new 10ER--does that hub go directly into the newer accessories, or do you use a coupling shaft?

v/r,

Rick
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reible
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Post by reible »

chipmaster wrote:Holy Cow! Is that a factory piece or a custom job? I've never owned any SS equipment other than my new 10ER--does that hub go directly into the newer accessories, or do you use a coupling shaft?

v/r,

Rick
The one shown is a factory one. I have seen someone on ebay who makes them and they look a lot better then this one does. I think they were selling for about $90 plus S&H. I have yet to clean mine up and use it as the rest of the machine is in primer.

A coupler is needed between the pulley and the SPT.

If you go to this post and look in the upper right corner of the tarp you will see a pulley guard that I modified to use with the coupler/pulley.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=8805

Ed
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

reible wrote:The one shown is a factory one. I have seen someone on ebay who makes them and they look a lot better then this one does. I think they were selling for about $90 plus S&H. I have yet to clean mine up and use it as the rest of the machine is in primer.

A coupler is needed between the pulley and the SPT.

If you go to this post and look in the upper right corner of the tarp you will see a pulley guard that I modified to use with the coupler/pulley.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=8805

Ed
Since I do not see one in the 'primer' pix, I assume you do not have the factory spt mount. I have only seen one on e-bay (ever)!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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