Miter gauge question
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eldyfig,
I am curious as to the reference number of the NYLOC SCREW that you are referring to when you said on reassembly you could not get the miter gauge protractor to move. What was the part number that you had to order from Shopsmith?
ldh
I am curious as to the reference number of the NYLOC SCREW that you are referring to when you said on reassembly you could not get the miter gauge protractor to move. What was the part number that you had to order from Shopsmith?
ldh
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mitergauge.PDF- (49.61 KiB) Downloaded 1467 times
282 is the reference nmber. When I removed the screw and washer, there was what I thought was crud in the threads and some on the washer. Looked to me like compacted wood dust. I cleaned in all off the screw and washer and out of the hole. Put it all back together. Screwed it too tight, the protractor wouldn't move. Loosened the screw a little. It was ok for a couple of changes in the protractor angle. Kept moving the protractor back and forth and the screw worked itself tight again.
Part number was 501639.
Tony
Part number was 501639.
Tony
Eldyfig,
Now I know what you are talking about. The part you ordered will no doubt solve the problem, but I have found that if I place a small drop of blue loctite on the threads (part 282) and adjust the screw for proper protractor movement then let the loctite set up it will remain in adjustment and I don't have to replace the screw with a new one. Hope this is helpful to you.
ldh
Now I know what you are talking about. The part you ordered will no doubt solve the problem, but I have found that if I place a small drop of blue loctite on the threads (part 282) and adjust the screw for proper protractor movement then let the loctite set up it will remain in adjustment and I don't have to replace the screw with a new one. Hope this is helpful to you.
ldh
Warning: DON'T USE THE RED LOCKTITE! Once set, the screw can only be removed by an Act of Congress.
With all good wishes,
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
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james.miller
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james.miller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:16 pm
Must be that SS alloy works with Loctite. The pieces I have had trouble with were not SS. They freeze together after several months of being assembled almost like they were cold welded. The disclaimer at the end of their data sheet is interesting http://henkelconsumerinfo.com/products/ ... _CA_EN.pdf
Actually this is the data sheet I should have put first, this is under disassembly procedures on page 3. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250 °C. Disassemble while hot https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTT ... 243-EN.pdf
Actually this is the data sheet I should have put first, this is under disassembly procedures on page 3. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 250 °C. Disassemble while hot https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTT ... 243-EN.pdf
Jim in Tucson
Jim,
A steel bolts into aluminum threads is at best not a great idea. Many applications require Anti-Seize compounds. Like I said, I have probably just been lucky. A few months back I was upgrading an old SS bandsaw and found one of the Eccentric Mounting Tube set screw seized and ended up having to over size the hole and tap for a 3/8 set screw. It just seemed to be the natural oxidation of the aluminum reacting with the steel that caused it to seize.
ldh
A steel bolts into aluminum threads is at best not a great idea. Many applications require Anti-Seize compounds. Like I said, I have probably just been lucky. A few months back I was upgrading an old SS bandsaw and found one of the Eccentric Mounting Tube set screw seized and ended up having to over size the hole and tap for a 3/8 set screw. It just seemed to be the natural oxidation of the aluminum reacting with the steel that caused it to seize.
ldh