Replacing Inner Spindle Bearing
Moderator: admin
Replacing Inner Spindle Bearing
The other day I raised the headstock to the drill press position and my 2003 SS headstock locked up. After the initial panic and obligatory expressions were uttered the diagnosis was the inner spindle bearing failed.
I found that bearing types etc. have been throughly discussed. This is my take on replacing the inner bearing.
The bearing type was a 6003z after doing a spec comparison I ordered a 6003rs ($4.27 including shipping). This bearing met or exceeded all 6003z specs plus it was sealed. After removing the shaft from the quill I placed the shaft with the bearings in place in the freezer (under the frozen peas so SWMBO would not find it). Meanwhile I drilled a 5/8 hole in the end of a scrap 2x4 to hold the spindle shaft and to cushion the splined end of the shaft. I also placed the new bearing under a lamp to heat it.
[ATTACH]15728[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]15726[/ATTACH]
After removing the shaft from the freezer I placed the block in the vice, inserted the shaft heated the outside of the bearing and give it a good knock with a BFH (big fun hammer) the bearing popped right off.
[ATTACH]15727[/ATTACH]
I then rotated the shaft reinserted it in the block placed the new heated bearing in place and used the old bearing to drive the new on in place.
[ATTACH]15725[/ATTACH]
Reinstalled all components and tested. After testing the SS it sounded better than ever. I think the bearing was bad when I purchased the SS. I just wasn't smart enough to know it.
I found that bearing types etc. have been throughly discussed. This is my take on replacing the inner bearing.
The bearing type was a 6003z after doing a spec comparison I ordered a 6003rs ($4.27 including shipping). This bearing met or exceeded all 6003z specs plus it was sealed. After removing the shaft from the quill I placed the shaft with the bearings in place in the freezer (under the frozen peas so SWMBO would not find it). Meanwhile I drilled a 5/8 hole in the end of a scrap 2x4 to hold the spindle shaft and to cushion the splined end of the shaft. I also placed the new bearing under a lamp to heat it.
[ATTACH]15728[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]15726[/ATTACH]
After removing the shaft from the freezer I placed the block in the vice, inserted the shaft heated the outside of the bearing and give it a good knock with a BFH (big fun hammer) the bearing popped right off.
[ATTACH]15727[/ATTACH]
I then rotated the shaft reinserted it in the block placed the new heated bearing in place and used the old bearing to drive the new on in place.
[ATTACH]15725[/ATTACH]
Reinstalled all components and tested. After testing the SS it sounded better than ever. I think the bearing was bad when I purchased the SS. I just wasn't smart enough to know it.
- Attachments
-
- install.jpg (458.22 KiB) Viewed 4227 times
-
- lamp.jpg (428.27 KiB) Viewed 4223 times
-
- remove.jpg (150.71 KiB) Viewed 4214 times
-
- layout.jpg (464.84 KiB) Viewed 4223 times
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Good Job!!!
Thanks for posting!!!:)
P.S. Next(?) time put a spacer(washer) between the outer bearing(the bigger shaft output end one) and that 2x4 with 5/8"(+) hole so as to not press against the outer race when driving the rear bearing on(and vice versa if replacing the big one!)..
Thanks for posting!!!:)
P.S. Next(?) time put a spacer(washer) between the outer bearing(the bigger shaft output end one) and that 2x4 with 5/8"(+) hole so as to not press against the outer race when driving the rear bearing on(and vice versa if replacing the big one!)..
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I thought the two bearings were the same size from the threads I have been reading. I am glad I didn't order two of the same size and find out they were different in the middle of replacement. This is the first thread I have seen with a tear down. Thanks for the info Stumpbuster. Do you have the number for the other bearing? I want to replace both at the same time.
I looked up the bearing you replaced and found
6003-2RS, 6003-ZZ Premium Ball Bearings, 17x35x10 for $3.73 each The 2RS is the sealed one and the ZZ is the metal shielded one. http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/1 ... 35x10.html
I looked up the bearing you replaced and found
6003-2RS, 6003-ZZ Premium Ball Bearings, 17x35x10 for $3.73 each The 2RS is the sealed one and the ZZ is the metal shielded one. http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/1 ... 35x10.html
James Phillips
Mark V 510 / Bandsaw
Mark V 510 / Bandsaw
There is some very good information posted in the archives about bearing types and which type goes where. Just do a search on bearings. I do not have the expertise to advise on bearing types. It seams there are several different models that have different part numbers.getnby41 wrote: Thanks for the info Stumpbuster. Do you have the number for the other bearing? I want to replace both at the same time.
I looked up the bearing you replaced and found
6003-2RS, 6003-ZZ Premium Ball Bearings, 17x35x10 for $3.73 each The 2RS is the sealed one and the ZZ is the metal shielded one. http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/m7/1 ... 35x10.html
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Also be aware there are I believe 3 different versions of the two bearing quill.
Best to look to see what you actually have.
Best to look to see what you actually have.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Very true, I have 4 different double bearing quill versions made by Shopsmith, 3 of them used different size bearings (32mm, 35mm, 40mm) either for the front or back bearing. All of these quills have a bent front shaft which is why I still have them.JPG40504 wrote:Also be aware there are I believe 3 different versions of the two bearing quill.
Best to look to see what you actually have.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
billmayo wrote:Very true, I have 4 different double bearing quill versions made by Shopsmith, 3 of them used different size bearings (32mm, 35mm, 40mm) either for the front or back bearing. All of these quills have a bent front shaft which is why I still have them.
How big of a deal is it to make my single a double?
R Hart
You need an outstanding machinest with a large lathe with a 2" or larger spindle bore. You have to machine the quill housing for the second bearing and the shaft most times. This requres very accurate work (.0005") as I took me 6 years and 5 machine shops to finally someone who could machine the accuracy the second bearing will require. I have many quill housings and shafts machined at 5 different machine shops, however, all of the quill housing and shafts were bored off-center for the second bear was the the major problem. This takes time to properly set-up the quill housing for true center machining. Same problem with the quill shafts. The bearing clearances were too much for the quill housing (.001-.006) too large & off center and the shafts were .001-.004 too small & off center. This leaves a really sloppy fitting bearing that no amount of LockTite can fix.mrhart wrote:How big of a deal is it to make my single a double?
I hope to get back back from my machinest more converted Poly-V and Gilmer double bearing quills next month. I sold all of the last batch he did for me. Contact me later if you are still looking to convert your single bearing quill or just want to buy one.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
billmayo wrote:You need an outstanding machinest with a large lathe with a 2" or larger spindle bore. You have to machine the quill housing for the second bearing and the shaft most times. This requres very accurate work (.0005") as I took me 6 years and 5 machine shops to finally someone who could machine the accuracy the second bearing will require. I have many quill housings and shafts machined at 5 different machine shops, however, all of the quill housing and shafts were bored off-center for the second bear was the the major problem. This takes time to properly set-up the quill housing for true center machining. Same problem with the quill shafts. The bearing clearances were too much for the quill housing (.001-.006) too large & off center and the shafts were .001-.004 too small & off center. This leaves a really sloppy fitting bearing that no amount of LockTite can fix.
I hope to get back back from my machinest more converted Poly-V and Gilmer double bearing quills next month. I sold all of the last batch he did for me. Contact me later if you are still looking to convert your single bearing quill or just want to buy one.
Thank you sir. I think I will leave it as a single and move on.
R Hart