Modifying/Upgrading a 1955 Greenie
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- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The earliest greenies had: Sand cast "A" headstock, No access hole, Slip clutch, no oil holes.
I have seen the oil holes both on top of the keyway and on the opposite side.
I like the keyway location better.
Looks like you are 'on top of things'!
I have seen the oil holes both on top of the keyway and on the opposite side.
I like the keyway location better.
Looks like you are 'on top of things'!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
getnby41 and JPG, thanks for the feedback on the oil hole locations and the pictures. Can somebody measure the diameter for me please? I know it's not a critical dimension, but I'll sleep better at night knowing that I drilled the right size holes.
As I mentioned in my other thread with the details of reversing the motor, I installed the reversing switch in the headstock, wired up the motor and the switches, and installed a new power cord. The old power cord was 16 gauge, and I thought that was on the small side, even for my old 3/4th HP motor. I also used a strain relief clamp. A countersink bit enlarged the power cord hole in the motor pan, and a Dremel finished it up nicely for the strain relief clamp.
My casters arrived in the mail, so I can now take this show on the road. That makes life much easier working in my half of our two car garage - the half that the Mk 5 has to share with the '76 Ironhead and the 1924 hit and miss engine. My wife uses her half of the garage for the minivan. How boring.
Sometimes I feel my garage is one of those puzzles with one piece missing - I have to move 5 other pieces to get to the one I want.
My lesson learned this week is that life is too short for crappy drills. I'm embarrassed to tell you all how long it took to drill the hole in the headstock to mount the reversing switch. The proper size for that toggle switch was a 64ths drill - not a size that I had a good quality drill for. But buried in the bottom of my drill drawer was a large set of cheap drills that I probably bought at a gun show 10 years ago thinking that this would fill in all the sizes I didn't have. I was right, it did. But the lousy drill wouldn't even cut the aluminum headstock right out of the box. It cut enough to make a dimple in the headstock, but once the dimple reached the full diameter of the drill, that was it - no more chips or shavings. Nothing. I've never had to sharpen a bit just to get through a 1/4 inch of aluminum! With a brand new drill, no less. Like I said, that was my lesson for the week.



As I mentioned in my other thread with the details of reversing the motor, I installed the reversing switch in the headstock, wired up the motor and the switches, and installed a new power cord. The old power cord was 16 gauge, and I thought that was on the small side, even for my old 3/4th HP motor. I also used a strain relief clamp. A countersink bit enlarged the power cord hole in the motor pan, and a Dremel finished it up nicely for the strain relief clamp.
My casters arrived in the mail, so I can now take this show on the road. That makes life much easier working in my half of our two car garage - the half that the Mk 5 has to share with the '76 Ironhead and the 1924 hit and miss engine. My wife uses her half of the garage for the minivan. How boring.
My lesson learned this week is that life is too short for crappy drills. I'm embarrassed to tell you all how long it took to drill the hole in the headstock to mount the reversing switch. The proper size for that toggle switch was a 64ths drill - not a size that I had a good quality drill for. But buried in the bottom of my drill drawer was a large set of cheap drills that I probably bought at a gun show 10 years ago thinking that this would fill in all the sizes I didn't have. I was right, it did. But the lousy drill wouldn't even cut the aluminum headstock right out of the box. It cut enough to make a dimple in the headstock, but once the dimple reached the full diameter of the drill, that was it - no more chips or shavings. Nothing. I've never had to sharpen a bit just to get through a 1/4 inch of aluminum! With a brand new drill, no less. Like I said, that was my lesson for the week.
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judaspre1982
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- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Sun Apr 30, 2017 3:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
And........ drilling progressively larger holes up to the final size helps. Greatly reduces the amount of material removed with each bit, and concentrates the cutting away from the center.judaspre1982 wrote:Hi Culprit
When you were drilling the aluminum, were you using a slow cutting speed on the drill?
I find in most cases, the bit cuts better at slow speeds.It doesn't take much to heat up the bit and halt the cutting process.
Also , I like to use cutting oil on harder metals. Makes a world of difference.
Dave
I would not attempt a 15/32 hole with only a small pilot hole. I would need a large drill PRESS do do so! Good clamps also!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Yes, I was trying to go slow, but with a handheld drill, there were a few times I was a little heavy on the trigger. I used a few squirts of oil now and then to keep it cooler.
I should have tried a larger pilot hole than the one I used. I don't remember the size, but it could have been stepped up larger.
I should have tried a larger pilot hole than the one I used. I don't remember the size, but it could have been stepped up larger.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Culprit wrote:Yes, I was trying to go slow, but with a handheld drill, there were a few times I was a little heavy on the trigger. I used a few squirts of oil now and then to keep it cooler.
I should have tried a larger pilot hole than the one I used. I don't remember the size, but it could have been stepped up larger.
Key word in earlier post....Progressively. Reduces chatter and makes rounder holes!
Means drilling several holes of increasing size.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- robinson46176
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- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
On such holes I am prone to drill it out in a couple of steps and finish the last diameter using a tapered reamer either by hand or in a bit brace. That way I can "sneak up on it".
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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judaspre1982
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- Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm
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Last edited by judaspre1982 on Sun Apr 30, 2017 3:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
ah, beat me to it
Like Judaspre1982, I like a step bit for metal
[ATTACH]15846[/ATTACH]
Had to ruin several other bits before I discovered these. And for what they will do, they are cheap (like $8 cheap for 6-8 hole sizes)
[ATTACH]15846[/ATTACH]
Had to ruin several other bits before I discovered these. And for what they will do, they are cheap (like $8 cheap for 6-8 hole sizes)
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- 00stepbit.jpg (10.12 KiB) Viewed 5003 times
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.