No match there!mbcabinetmaker wrote:http://www.mcmaster.com/#hairpin-clips/=fwotbw
Obsolete?????
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- JPG
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- robinson46176
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Another possible approach or two...
The old saying is that "there is more than one way to skin a cat". While I have never tried to skin a cat I do always try to keep that approach in my thinking right along with the "KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) principle.
One thing I would maybe consider would be finding a similar but thicker clip to fit the same diameter and chuck up the cylinders and turn the grooves out wider to fit them. Whether it was done with a cutter bit in a metal lathe or using a file in a simpler turning set-up the most important part would be making sure that the top of the groove retains its original square shoulder. A rounded off corner there would ruin the holding power of the clip. The spring is always pushing the clip away from the lower shoulder so it is not really critical.
Thought two is a little more iffy but still a simple possibility. I didn't dismantle anything to check carefully but it is possible with a little planning to just drill the cylinder at or barely above the groove and simply put a regular cotter-pin through it to hold the spring down.
The factor to check carefully is if your casters ride against the top of the bore and where that is exactly in relation to the clip groove. I measured a new caster (bought from Shopsmith) stem and measured up from the stem base on one of my 510 casters and it looks like the top of the bore in the cylinder is at or just below the clip groove. My caster stems are 1.75 long and that also appears to be how high up on the cylinders the groove is. I would have to pull one to double check and that may even vary a little from one caster set to another depending on what SS was buying. Thinking about it I am not sure if there would be any problem with the top of the caster stem riding against a cotter running through the cylinder right at the top of the bore?
If you have the new "improved" caster set that rides on ball bearings at the bottom of the cylinder and has a shorter stem then it wouldn't matter if you put a cotter-pin through it at all.
Of course the best answer is to find a source of the original clips but there are other possibilities just in case you end up with a cat that needs skinning.
.
One thing I would maybe consider would be finding a similar but thicker clip to fit the same diameter and chuck up the cylinders and turn the grooves out wider to fit them. Whether it was done with a cutter bit in a metal lathe or using a file in a simpler turning set-up the most important part would be making sure that the top of the groove retains its original square shoulder. A rounded off corner there would ruin the holding power of the clip. The spring is always pushing the clip away from the lower shoulder so it is not really critical.
Thought two is a little more iffy but still a simple possibility. I didn't dismantle anything to check carefully but it is possible with a little planning to just drill the cylinder at or barely above the groove and simply put a regular cotter-pin through it to hold the spring down.
The factor to check carefully is if your casters ride against the top of the bore and where that is exactly in relation to the clip groove. I measured a new caster (bought from Shopsmith) stem and measured up from the stem base on one of my 510 casters and it looks like the top of the bore in the cylinder is at or just below the clip groove. My caster stems are 1.75 long and that also appears to be how high up on the cylinders the groove is. I would have to pull one to double check and that may even vary a little from one caster set to another depending on what SS was buying. Thinking about it I am not sure if there would be any problem with the top of the caster stem riding against a cotter running through the cylinder right at the top of the bore?
If you have the new "improved" caster set that rides on ball bearings at the bottom of the cylinder and has a shorter stem then it wouldn't matter if you put a cotter-pin through it at all.
Of course the best answer is to find a source of the original clips but there are other possibilities just in case you end up with a cat that needs skinning.
.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
- RobertTaylor
- Platinum Member
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- Location: North Canton, Ohio
hairpin
maybe an "E" clip would work?
Bob
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
dusty wrote:What specifications are you looking for that are not offered by McMasters.
I suspect the biggest limitation is that the groove is extremely narrow. I have a good number of "C" clips and "E" clips and other misc. retainers but nothing that thin in anything but tiny diameters.
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--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
dusty wrote:What specifications are you looking for that are not offered by McMasters.
See d pix! The black one is ss, the one on the right is jpg issue.
There is nothing in ANY fastener catalog etc. that I have looked at that has that shape. I have tried a couple of what on the surface appear to be alternatives, but they end up interfering with other caster assembly parts.
AS far as dimensions are concerned the wire diameter needs to be close to original(0.072") and must securely grasp a 0.050" deep by 0.105" wide groove in the 3/4" piston. When mounged to the piston, no part of it may extend more than 7/8" from the center of the piston. The ss part extends about 9/16".
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
sawmill wrote:Can't you just use a snapring. I would drill it and use a cotterpin
I am merely wanting to replace a missing part. My idea of a workaround is to make that part as I have already done. Modifications would be a last resort.
I started this thread as a means of possibly forewarning of things to come!
I also had hoped someone would know of a source.
My mindset does not consider a workaround(substitute for a correct solution) as being a suitable first consideration. They usually involve too many compromises. They are however 'expedient'(for a while).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- trainguytom
- Gold Member
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- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:22 pm
- Location: Central WI
HF clip
I took out the clip on a set of casters to get a better look & decided to try a Harbor Freight E-clip from one of their assortment boxes, Here's a pic of the result. Seems to work fine, stays in place when I rotate the cam.
I don't see why it wont work as long as it stays in place & it seems to.
I don't see why it wont work as long as it stays in place & it seems to.
- Attachments
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- caster doodad.JPG (83.9 KiB) Viewed 1299 times
My dad's 1951 10er, 2 more 10er's, same vintage, a Goldie MK5, a 510 shortie with 34inch tubes, bandsaw, jointer, jigsaw, belt sander, a ton of small SS goodies and still looking...you just can't have enough Shopsmith stuff