Lower Sheave Rubbing on Motor Housing

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:08 am

I have a used 1981 shopsmith that I purchased back in Feburary. Due to a number of things that kept me really busy (Thesis, new house, new baby) I am just now getting it set up and oiled/waxed.

When I started it up and cycled through the speed dial I noticed that there was a rubbing noise that I didn't remember hearing when I purchased it. After closer inspection when I had the belt cover taken off, I found that the lower sheave is rubbing against the motor housing. I had read some posts where it was said that the old spacers used by SS were too thin, and would allow the sheave to cut into them and thereby rub the motor housing. Does SS have a replacement/upgrade for this? Does it sound like that is most likely the problem?

Thanks!

Paul

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:13 pm

Yes and yes

,

Here is the new sheave spacer:
(Item 124)
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... 4205&qty=1

And when doing this work, it's a good idea to replace the setscrew in the sheave:
(Item 118)
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/part ... 3056&qty=1

Good luck!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 12:49 pm

pessen wrote:I have a used 1981 shopsmith that I purchased back in Feburary. Due to a number of things that kept me really busy (Thesis, new house, new baby) I am just now getting it set up and oiled/waxed.

When I started it up and cycled through the speed dial I noticed that there was a rubbing noise that I didn't remember hearing when I purchased it. After closer inspection when I had the belt cover taken off, I found that the lower sheave is rubbing against the motor housing. I had read some posts where it was said that the old spacers used by SS were too thin, and would allow the sheave to cut into them and thereby rub the motor housing. Does SS have a replacement/upgrade for this? Does it sound like that is most likely the problem?

Thanks!

Paul

Last time I needed that spacer, I got one from the hardware store. I do not recall for sure the dimensions, but 5/8" id, 1" od(or just small enough to fit into the hole in the motor end casting) and the length was IIRC was about flush to slightly proud of the casting. The fan sheave needs to clear the casting by about 1/16" to 1/8".

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 2:04 pm

Thanks for the info. One other question being I'm a newbie at working on the headstocks. How hard is it to remove the sheave and replace the spacer? Is there any documentation available that shows an exploded view of how the parts fit together/come apart?

I don't have a user manual or any documentation on the headstock (previous owner didn't have it or didn't pass it along).

Thanks.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 2:45 pm

pessen wrote:Thanks for the info. One other question being I'm a newbie at working on the headstocks. How hard is it to remove the sheave and replace the spacer? Is there any documentation available that shows an exploded view of how the parts fit together/come apart?

I don't have a user manual or any documentation on the headstock (previous owner didn't have it or didn't pass it along).

Thanks.

This will get you started. I am not sure he removes the fan sheave.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS122/SS122_Shopsmith_Reborn_Pt2.htm

Be advised there are three different means of securing the spring to the end of the shaft.

Beware the spring tension!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:19 pm

Maybe one of these PDF's will help ya.

[ATTACH]15887[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15888[/ATTACH]

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Mon Jan 23, 2012 4:24 pm

beeg wrote:Maybe one of these PDF's will help ya.

[ATTACH]15887[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15888[/ATTACH]

The first PDF says that to permanently fix the problem you must replace both the spacer and the fan sheave. Is this correct? It seems as long as the sheave wasn't allowed to rub for an extended period of time that it should still be just fine....or am I missing something here?

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 4:28 pm

JPG40504 wrote:This will get you started. I am not sure he removes the fan sheave.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS122/SS122_Shopsmith_Reborn_Pt2.htm

Be advised there are three different means of securing the spring to the end of the shaft.

Beware the spring tension!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was following the cleaning/inspection procedure he goes through in this video. I got to the part where he removes the idler shaft. When he did it the sheave slid right off the idler shaft, but I can't seem to get mine off. Anyone know of any tricks or something I may be missing?

Thanks!

Pessen

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 10:08 pm

pessen wrote:I was following the cleaning/inspection procedure he goes through in this video. I got to the part where he removes the idler shaft. When he did it the sheave slid right off the idler shaft, but I can't seem to get mine off. Anyone know of any tricks or something I may be missing?

Thanks!

Pessen

The idler shaft is in the headstock.

I assume you mean the motor shaft.

The fan sheave and the floating sheave are on the motor shaft.

If it is gunked up, the floating sheave can be quite difficult to remove(for the same reason, it does not function well either).

Soaking and gradual movement will eventually get it loose. Prying should be done in a balanced manner. If you noticed, Nick was about to use a pry bar, but I would have used two(one opposite the other). Try to get the key and keyway well soaked. My favorite 'soaker' is kerosene, but there are other more 'exotic($$)' fluids that might work. Do not try to rush it, let it 'soak' overnight at least.

pessen · Post by **pessen** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:20 pm

JPG40504 wrote:The idler shaft is in the headstock.

I assume you mean the motor shaft.

The fan sheave and the floating sheave are on the motor shaft.

If it is gunked up, the floating sheave can be quite difficult to remove(for the same reason, it does not function well either).

Soaking and gradual movement will eventually get it loose. Prying should be done in a balanced manner. If you noticed, Nick was about to use a pry bar, but I would have used two(one opposite the other). Try to get the key and keyway well soaked. My favorite 'soaker' is kerosene, but there are other more 'exotic($$)' fluids that might work. Do not try to rush it, let it 'soak' overnight at least.

No, I mean the idler shaft. At least that is what Nick repeatedly referred to it as. The portion of the video I am referencing is at 16:30 of Sawdust session 22. Attached are some pics it just to make sure there is no confusion:

[ATTACH]15953[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15954[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15955[/ATTACH]

What do you mean by soaking the shaft? If it is still in the headstock I can't submerge it.....do you mean applying kerosene with a cloth and letting that set overnight?

Thanks for your help. This is my first time taking a headstock apart so am still trying to learn all the terminology and figure out exactly how everything comes apart. Would probably help if I had the owners manual.....but it didn't come with my machine and I am too cheap to pay for it at this point.