SPT Configurations / Advantages of Mini's

[JPG]

I'm considering turning one of my 10ERs into a "short shorty". Swap the tubes with the Mark 5 base miter saw/planer stand, cut those tubes short, then mount it on a table low enough to roll under the center section of the counter on the back wall of my shop.

Ya gonna amputate yer legs to operate it?:D

[heathicus]

Ya gonna amputate yer legs to operate it?:D

I don't have the original 10ER legs, so it will be a shop built table/stand/thingy.

[damagi]

you can mount the grinder on either side regardless of the cover usage. The cover can be oriented for towards you or away from you grinding. Just make sure that the direction of rotation and the cover orientation matches what you are wanting to do.

[JPG]

you can mount the grinder on either side regardless of the cover usage. The cover can be oriented for towards you or away from you grinding. Just make sure that the direction of rotation and the cover orientation matches what you are wanting to do.

And what do you attach the cover to? I was referring to the one that mounts to the quill.

[damagi]

And what do you attach the cover to? I was referring to the one that mounts to the quill.

The fancy euro grinder mount

eh, details. you win

[JPG]

[quote="damagi"]The fancy euro grinder mount ]

They will bite you every time!;)

[mrhart]

I took the information so far and edited the first post. I will keep updating.

So with a reversable motor a bandsaw on each end of a shory would be no problem?

On a mini, do you use a standard coupling on both ends with enough length in the tubes to slide back and forth an inch or two, to replace couplings? A pic may be in order for a lamer like me.

[JPG]

I took the information so far and edited the first post. I will keep updating.

So with a reversable motor a bandsaw on each end of a shory would be no problem?

On a mini, do you use a standard coupling on both ends with enough length in the tubes to slide back and forth an inch or two, to replace couplings? A pic may be in order for a lamer like me.

Not enough consistancy from Spt to Spt for that degree of conciseness.

Most of the combinations mentioned assume sufficient headstock positioning range to accommodate each Spt individually and one at a time.

One could however tailor the tube length to allow simultaneous operation or minimal adjustment as you described, but that would defeat the potential future alternative usefulness.

If you want a 'dedicated station', get a power stand!;)

[bdeweese]

Now things get muddy(opinionated).

Anything less than a full length is a mini/shorty, but mini is used for shorter ones. When too 'mini' there is insufficient space for the carriage and table.

The shortest I would consider is created by cutting a set of tubes(2 way or two bench) so each 'half' is 3/4" longer/shorter than the opposite end. That way only a single pair of way or a single pair of bench tubes are cut. Anything less mini(longer) requires a full set(2 way and 2 bench) of tubes.

I consider a mini to be an improved power station(greater speed range and power). It can also mount two SPT's at a time(not necessarity simultaneous operation). Thus it can be a storage rack.

Depending upon what project(s) were under way, A mini makes a nice sanding station(strip on one end, belt on the other) and capable of swapping one to a disk/drum as well.

A Band saw(left) and jig saw(right) is a possible combination.[The jig saw can be driven either direction]. The scroll saw needs the lower shaft, but is also bi-directional.

So you can see that the mini/shorty does give you many possible variations/combinations and dual mounting.

These are I am sure not the only possible uses/combinations.

I am in the process of restoring an old 500 and converting it to a shorty/mini. I was originally going to take 16" off, which seems to give me the most versatility - but at the expense of taking up a bit more room. However, your post about the tubes has me reconsidering. Am I to understand that the way/bench tubes are interchangeable? I thought that the way tubes had slightly different diameters than the bench tubes? Your post suggest that that's not the case. I like the idea of creating a complete set of tubes out of only one pair of tubes. If I ever wanted to put it back to a longer config I'd only need to buy one pair of tubes instead of 2.

I already sent my motor back to Bill to refurb and reverse, so that part is already covered.

Thanks! Bob

[JPG]

I am in the process of restoring an old 500 and converting it to a shorty/mini. I was originally going to take 16" off, which seems to give me the most versatility - but at the expense of taking up a bit more room. However, your post about the tubes has me reconsidering. Am I to understand that the way/bench tubes are interchangeable? I thought that the way tubes had slightly different diameters than the bench tubes? Your post suggest that that's not the case. I like the idea of creating a complete set of tubes out of only one pair of tubes. If I ever wanted to put it back to a longer config I'd only need to buy one pair of tubes instead of 2.

I already sent my motor back to Bill to refurb and reverse, so that part is already covered.

Thanks! Bob

Greenies and early Goldies(Gilmer drive) had 1 7/8" bench tubes. The 1 3/4" way tubes will fit in a unit that originally had the larger bench tubes, but they will be off set slightly from 'normal'. They can be shimmed so as to achieve 'normal' spacing. Only the 1 3/4" tubes can be used as way tubes.

The bench tubes need to be 3/4" longer than the way tubes.

Later units(Goldie/Poly-v to current)have 1 3/4 tubes for both way and bench tubes.

10E/ER way tubes are the same length and od as current way tubes, but they were twice as thick. Tis a sin to cut 10 E/ER way tubes. They are irreplaceable!