Porkchop Control Clip and Roll Pin

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:49 am

Try slipping the belt off the front of the control sheave flange. You may have enough slack to get it startedoff the flange. Rotate from the quill once it gets partially off. You will have apply considerable pressure.

I think both pulleys are stuck. Belt off has gotta happen. If it will not, we need to get serious trying to open the idler pulley. May include use of a 'gasp' hammer(and a piece of hardwood). Need to get between the flanges, but from below(motor view point). Not very easily accessed. Must proceed incrementally around the pulley by rotating it to prevent warping it or cocking it. Some risk there if overly aggressive!

jtrainer · Post by **jtrainer** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:07 pm

Belt is off, went around the inside toward the porkchop and out through the belt cover down past the floating sheave.

Neither the floating nor the control sheaves are moving (sliding ) at this point. I too suspect they are both stuck and needing some sort of break free juice. What flavor break free juice do you guys recommend?

The belt removal over the control sheave was very easy and only took 2 very small screwdrivers and maybe 2 minutes time (evaluate/obtain tools/execute).

Here's a few shots with the belt off.

Control/Idler sheaves position post belt removal
[ATTACH]16237[/ATTACH]

Floating Sheave position post belt removal
[ATTACH]16238[/ATTACH]

Floating Sheave position post belt removal #2 This also has the Key way visible too. The shaft the key way is on was/is very dirty. Could this be partly due to my recent oiling like heck?
[ATTACH]16239[/ATTACH]

mgbbob · Post by **mgbbob** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 6:36 pm

I used PB Blaster and just kept after it. I still think you will need to get the sheeves out to where you can really work the sheeve back and forth on the shaft. Keep after it, you are getting there.

Bob

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:52 pm

Is the spring compressed or are you using something to hold the sheaves open? I see some corrosion or some other contamination on the motor shaft between the vanes of the floating sheave. It looks like that is what be preventing the sheaves from moving. Kroil Oil or PB blaster that has been recommended is the way to go. Be gentle with the sheaves they are easily damaged. The spring is going to be a B---H to remove while it is compressed as well as dangerous. There is a tool described in some SS literature that can be made to restrain the spring safely. When I work on a headstock I remove the spring from the shaft and run the motor and polish the shaft with some 3 in One oil and 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. The black stuff may also be oxidized oil. A thorough cleaning is definitely called for.
Bill V

jtrainer · Post by **jtrainer** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:23 pm

I assume your referring to this black crud on the shaft... I've gotten most of it off using some cotton swabs and gun cleaner. It's an amazingly dirty area...

[ATTACH]16245[/ATTACH]

When I spray it down with the PB Blaster, I assume I should lower the way tubes and headstock back down from the drilling position so as to not drip/run the penetrating oil down into the motor assy?

For the control/idler sheaves, I can't see the shaft but I assume it's also got that same black gunk on them as well.

Thanks again... The help is much appreciated.

As a side note, SWMBO asked what I was up to. I gently explained the issue and surprisingly she said well at least your working on it... so I get a reprieve for not cutting wood this past weekend.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:46 pm

Hurray! Now we can 'see' the 'problem'. The motor pulley usually sticks at the other end. It has got to be easier to push( with the spring helping) than trying to pull it out. Any force needs to be applied near the center(hub). Some penetrant applied through the spring to the shaft off the end of the sheave should help. I gotta know what was applied prior to storage. 3 in 1 by itself would not do this (at least I do not think so). It must have dissolved the crud and then it hardened.

The idler shaft pix still has the belt in there!

Both movable sheaves need to be soaked from the end previously obscured by the belt and allowed to seep. Do not apply so much that it will drip into the motor, but the fan sheave should prevent very much from getting that far. Coating the outside will do little good, the sheave bore/shaft/keyway are the areas needing 'solvent'.

jtrainer · Post by **jtrainer** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 1:25 am

OK I've given her several spritz's with PB Blaster (from bLowes). I have extra spray straws so I used one to try and get the PB Blaster into the inner portion of the Control/idler sheaves. I'll spritz it again tomorrow AM.

To date I've only used 3 in One oil on this unit. The previous owner I have no idea what they used as I bought it from a guy who picked up a storage unit on an auction.

If the PB Blaster works on the floating sheave, I guess there's a possibility it will suddenly close under the spring tension alone. I'm working to keep my fingers out of the way...

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:51 am

jtrainer wrote:OK I've given her several spritz's with PB Blaster (from bLowes). I have extra spray straws so I used one to try and get the PB Blaster into the inner portion of the Control/idler sheaves. I'll spritz it again tomorrow AM.

To date I've only used 3 in One oil on this unit. The previous owner I have no idea what they used as I bought it from a guy who picked up a storage unit on an auction.

If the PB Blaster works on the floating sheave, I guess there's a possibility it will suddenly close under the spring tension alone. I'm working to keep my fingers out of the way...

I seriously doubt anything will move without 'coercion'!

Once you get them moving and then cleaned up and oiled. you will be amazed at how easily they will then move.

Tis far easier to keep them oiled than what you have been doing!;)

jtrainer · Post by **jtrainer** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:10 pm

OK I'm taping with a hammer and some hard wood. I'm thinking I should make the spring tension holder but make it so I can fit the entire spring assy into the block of wood so as to keep even force being applied around the sheave.

I have to ask, I know penetrating oils can climb threading and all, but if the bulk of the sheave is north of my oil hole (Floating Sheave here), would it be best to drop the motor and set it so the motor shaft and sheaves are pointed downward now?

For the idler/control sheaves would it be best to remove the idler shaft and soak it or try and get the PB Blaster further onto the shaft?

I realize from past exp that penetrating oils can take a few days to get through it all, I'm just thinking of how to improve the speed of it is all.

John

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:25 pm

jtrainer wrote:OK I'm taping with a hammer and some hard wood. I'm thinking I should make the spring tension holder but make it so I can fit the entire spring assy into the block of wood so as to keep even force being applied around the sheave.

I have to ask, I know penetrating oils can climb threading and all, but if the bulk of the sheave is north of my oil hole (Floating Sheave here), would it be best to drop the motor and set it so the motor shaft and sheaves are pointed downward now?

For the idler/control sheaves would it be best to remove the idler shaft and soak it or try and get the PB Blaster further onto the shaft?

I realize from past exp that penetrating oils can take a few days to get through it all, I'm just thinking of how to improve the speed of it is all.

John

Idler shaft out would make it 'easier'(at least better access!).

'Spritz' up near the far end of the motor shaft. If you can open the spring enough to see the end of the sheave hub that would be a good 'application' point.

Setting the ends of the control sheave and the motor shaft into a hole and suspending them(pointing down) and adding heavy object(S) on top will apply constant pressure effortlessly).

A couple of pipe/bar clamps and a board with a hole could do the same thing(apply clamp pressure equally),