Porkchop Control Clip and Roll Pin

[JPG]

Use clamps like this, but apply pressure to pulley, not the end of the spring.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=110194&postcount=2

Last pix!

[jtrainer]

OK I decided to get mid-evil on it... I had a few 1 foot 2x4's that were glued and screwed some time back. I drilled a hole through them, placed over the floating spring and used another board on top of that and hit it about 20-25 times. and viola the Floating Sheave is now inward flush towards the Fan Sheave.

Now playing with the spring tension I can see it will be stiff but not impossible to move, however the sheave will not move back outward under my manual strength (YET). This is a good start and the spring tension is greatly reduced now.


Floating Sheave side A
[ATTACH]16257[/ATTACH]

Floating Sheave side B
[ATTACH]16258[/ATTACH]

Control Sheave
[ATTACH]16259[/ATTACH]

I guess I'll attempt to get the idler shaft out next....

EDIT: I have those clamps, that's a great idea on how to compress the spring.

[jtrainer]

SIGH!

Idler is out, motor is down.... Control Sheave is/was moving outward. I was using a technique I read here by making several wedges. Perhaps I needed more PB Blaster... Anyhow the Control Sheave slipped from my vise jaws which was protected by some pine and leather.

Anyhow it slipped and fell to the ground and well take a look below.


[ATTACH]16269[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH]16267[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH]16268[/ATTACH]

Is the Idler shaft salvageable still?

I know the control Sheave needs to be replaced.

Sort of afraid to start on the floating sheave now...

[JPG]

SIGH!

Idler is out, motor is down.... Control Sheave is/was moving outward. I was using a technique I read here by making several wedges. Perhaps I needed more PB Blaster... Anyhow the Control Sheave slipped from my vise jaws which was protected by some pine and leather.

Anyhow it slipped and fell to the ground and well take a look below.


[ATTACH]16269[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH]16267[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH]16268[/ATTACH]

Is the Idler shaft salvageable still?

I know the control Sheave needs to be replaced.

Sort of afraid to start on the floating sheave now...

Now that the end of the idler shaft is accessible, a gear/bearing puller will work. You have also been relieved of the need to worry about damaging the control sheave.

Yes the control sheave is scrap. Save the button/bearing/clip.


The spring needs to now be removed from the motor shaft. I assume you now know how with the clamps. A pair of snap ring pliers will be quite useful!

Now that the floating sheave has become unseized, removal of spring tension will make removal easier. I am sure there is crud on the shaft towards the motor end. It needs to go bye bye! Prying on the sheave near/at the hub will keep it from cocking/getting damaged.

Do not try to bounce the floating sheave on the floor!;)

The idler shaft will be cruddy also.

Hard for you to realize that you have made progress, but getting these seized sheaves moving can be a real trial.

Reassembly will be a 'snap' compared what you have been through!

[jtrainer]

OK Sheaves are off. Control Sheave will be replaced... The Floating Sheave came off with almost no resistance to the gear puller. I had it 60% off by simply turning the gear puller by hand with NO wrench. If I would have lubricated the gear puller maybe I'd have gotten it all the way off.

I've cleaned the motor and idler shafts, and will do so again tomorrow. Tonight I still need to take the motor out of the housing as there is a ton of saw dust caked on the back end of the motor.

The crud was caked on the shafts and my clean mineral spirits didn't touch it at first, sort of surprising. Bore cleaner stripped the junk right off.

Here's a couple of pics of the newly freed parts.

[ATTACH]16281[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16282[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16283[/ATTACH]

I've cleaned the parts up quite a bit, but would like to get them even cleaner. Does the inner sheave sleeve need to shine as mine appear almost blackened?

Can I use Brake Cleaner on the parts if cleaned well afterwards?

Up next is the Quill Assy and all to be removed/cleaned/lubed....

[billmayo]

Just a warning. Try to get a return policy from whomever you get the replacement Control Sheave. Due to manufacturing tolerances over the years when cutting the keyway and boring the internal shaft ID, you may find the sheave vanes hitting and maybe will stick in each other when closed or the control sheave ID will be too tight or too loose on the idler shaft. If buying used, try to buy a complete Control & Idler sheave and idler shaft assembly.

[JPG]

Any solvent that works should be ok unless is dissolves aluminum or steel.

As far as color, if the parts slide easily when oiled then they are probably clean enough, but if a deposit is causing the color, it is best to remove it. Abrading may be the only choice. Roll up a piece of sandpaper and run it(as a rolled up cylinder) through the bore to clean it up. Keep the paper dry! Do not over do it to the point the bore is getting bigger.

I would take the idler sheave off the shaft to get down to the center of the shaft. There is a small clip(that fits into a small groove on the idler shaft) that retains the idler sheave. Once the sheave is removed, the key will also come out. Then cleaning the shaft becomes much easier. Take care to not misplace the clip. You will not find one at your friendly hardware store(or big box place either).

[jtrainer]

I was thinking I'd just order a Control Sheave and maybe some new belts since I've never touched them nor ever felt they needed adjustment from ShopSmith direct.

Do I need to be concerned over the key way and such if ordering direct?

Regarding the removal of the Idler Sheave, I saw the clip I hadn't thought of removing it, but since it was brought up, hey why not. I can pull the clip, I think I'd expect it to slip off. If it's stuck/sticky is it OK to utilize the gear puller on it perhaps just to get it started. I can lube the idler shaft prior to it's removal.

I figure I'm going to do the extra mile and rebuild/condition the entire headstock while I'm this far.

Regarding the Idler Bearings, should they spin much like my bicycle wheels where they spin for a bit?

[JPG]

I was thinking I'd just order a Control Sheave and maybe some new belts since I've never touched them nor ever felt they needed adjustment from ShopSmith direct.

Do I need to be concerned over the key way and such if ordering direct?

Regarding the removal of the Idler Sheave, I saw the clip I hadn't thought of removing it, but since it was brought up, hey why not. I can pull the clip, I think I'd expect it to slip off. If it's stuck/sticky is it OK to utilize the gear puller on it perhaps just to get it started. I can lube the idler shaft prior to it's removal.

I figure I'm going to do the extra mile and rebuild/condition the entire headstock while I'm this far.

Regarding the Idler Bearings, should they spin much like my bicycle wheels where they spin for a bit?

Puller (aligned properly) ok. Clip may need to be pulled out of the groove one side at a time and slipped up the shaft slightly until both sides are out of the groove, then slide the clip off the shaft. Put it back by slipping onto the shaft, then sliding the clip down to and into the groove. The clip is in a 'hole' and difficult to get to.

If you are ordering a control sheave from SS, also get the key(501320?).

I understand Bill Mayo's concern, but I have not encountered the mis aligned sheave problem with a new control sheave. He has a LOT more experience than I however. IIUC the problem happens at extreme fast speed setting. If the new sheave interferes with the idler sheave, slight filing at the contact points may relieve the problem. I would not worry about this unless it happens.

Are you describing the idler shaft bearings spinning with the idler sheave acting as a fly wheel? If so coasting is to be expected. You said bearingS. Does this mean you have the idler shaft with two bearings?

Be prepared for sticker shock when ordering the control sheave(515556)!

[jtrainer]

Yeah that was sticker shock alright, glad I glanced those prices over previously...

OK Idler sheave came off while you were replying. Very easy almost no effort once the clip was off.

Other than the control sheave and the key I was thinking I'd order them after I get through the entire Quill assy. That way I get or figure out my best sourcing of all parts at that point.

More to come.