woodburner wrote:Sorry to chime in but the idea of using the table saw by lowering the table into a piece of wood and then turning that piece of wood while the blade is running is a dangerous aspect. Saw blades are not made to cut in that fashion as it will put undo side pressure on the blade and cause many problems which more than likely will injure you.
The best and fastest way it to use the lathe if the the piece will fit. If not, the router will be the next way, and then the hand chisels.
The show 'Woodworks" has an episode in which David Marks uses a router to make a dished out bowl in a square table-top. He also uses chisles to finsh it and ame it just right so it would'nt look machined. Go to the DIR websire and see if DAvid has put intructions on how to make this using the "Woodworks" link.
Hey everybody,
I did say it was a wierd idea. But, everything is tied down solid]The cut is about the same arc as a 10 inch blade.[/quote] Of course! Tilting the blade (table) will allow a different curvature, just like cutting the coves.
Tim
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For those interested the "saucer cut" is shown in the PTWFE page 58 of the yellow color textured cover version. The revised edition and 4th don't seem to have it shown anymore.
Ed
Hi Ed,
Due to copyrights, etc., I will not ask you to put up a picture, but how about if Nick gets SS approval and posts a picture for us?
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
For those interested the "saucer cut" is shown in the PTWFE page 58 of the yellow color textured cover version. The revised edition and 4th don't seem to have it shown anymore.
Ed
Say Ed,
For those of us that do not have that edition, can you please describe how the saucer cut is made?
Thank you,
Tim
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Greenvilleguy wrote:For those that don't have that edition of PTWFE, just go back and read Jim's original post. He described it prefectly.
I thought my idea of doing it on the saw table was based on the cove cutting posts. However looking at my copy of PTWFE, there it is on p. 58. Must have been in my subconscious.
I may do one round one using that method, but I think that I will use the lathe and attempt to dish a square glue up. Will see if I can talk the shop teacher out of that big chunk of maple in his back room tomorrow.
Reading to the bottom of page 58 shows using a pivot to saw the saucer cut in a square board. Hmm… use a stop collar to set the depth.
Jim
I just saw a shallow dish made with irregularly shaped wood from a winery on lumberjocks. The guy used tools I've never heard of to make it. He roughed it out with an 'arbortech' or a makita curved shoe planer and then used a grinder to smooth it out. There were also some square bowls on lumberjocks projects page. Hope this isn't too off-topic.
OK, made a first attempt with a piece of stock from a bowl turning package. Looked light colored, thought it might be maple. It was walnut or something similar. I didn't do a lot of finish work or worry about perfect smoothness, it's a cutting board. I left it thick so it could be recut later if needed. Finish is mineral oil, needs a couple more coats.
The board on the left is the original. It has a kerf to park the Ulu.
I got the chunk of maple from the shop and will be able to glue up a square piece about the size of the original. Will get to that next week during Easter break.
jimthej wrote:OK, made a first attempt with a piece of stock from a bowl turning package. Looked light colored, thought it might be maple. It was walnut or something similar. I didn't do a lot of finish work or worry about perfect smoothness, it's a cutting board. I left it thick so it could be recut later if needed. Finish is mineral oil, needs a couple more coats.
The board on the left is the original. It has a kerf to park the Ulu.
I got the chunk of maple from the shop and will be able to glue up a square piece about the size of the original. Will get to that next week during Easter break.
It looks like you did a good job. The old "bowl" looks like it has a larger diameter? Does that effect how the Ulu will work?
Tim
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