cross cut sleds

[dusty]

Man, he is good! I tried to make some runners today, and was pretty satisfied with the results. After this, I think I will reconsider how close is good enough.
But, I have some recycled stock that is not as big as suggested, but I think I am going to build one just to practice on. I appreciate his use of the math to inform you on the movements of the sled. The additional adjustment for the length of the back really made sense. Thanks Dusty. Never heard of this guy, but he is in my list of " look at again stuff" for sure.

I'm not going to dismantle my sled just so that I can try to get it set more accurately but I think I could do better than what I have. His method of determining the error/inch (in thousands, no less) and then translating to error over the entire length of his fence is what I learned from this video.

I have been setting it as close as I could, testing it and then adjusting (over and over) til I was too tired to do it again.

I better book mark this video.

What I am going to do is test my ability to move my fence in thousands of an inch increments. I never dreamed of cutting runners that close on the Mark V. I have been using the ProPlaner to get the width of the runner (actually the thickness of the stock) and then rip the runners off on the Mark V. It has worked well but I doubt that any of my runners are within a couple thousands of the target width (which is BTW 47/64" or .73475").

I doubt that I can do what Ng demonstrated but it'll be fun to try. If it doesn't work, I can always blame it on the fact that my fence is not a Beismeyer.

PS: I, personally, am unable to relocate my fence with that sort of precision. I can get it there but not near as gracefully as was done in this video clip. I cut three or for runners before I got one that was close enough to need a gauge to determine how close it was. The others were obviously too thick or too thin. The good news is that I got it there and was able to cut four runners for future use. All I have to do now is make sure I don't use one of them to stir paint or something else equally inappropriate.

BTW: Runners cut to fit precisely in one Mark V won't necessarily fit as well in another Mark V. Bottom line - if you are striving for this sort of accuracy each piece may need to be custom cut for your specific miter tracks. The miter tracks on my 520 ProFence are a tad wider than those on the Main Table.

The fence has been modified, also. The fence is actually a 510 rip fence simply bolted to the original fence on the Sliding Cross Cut Table. I did that to gain the t-track on top.

[dlbristol]

Dusty, I did not cut runners with that degree of accuracy either. As long as they run tight against one side of the slot and are straight, I can't see why that is as he called it " the money cut". ( wow, I just questioned a world class woodworker:o ) I saw a video that shimmed the runners in the slots so that they both ran against the blade side of each slot. He just used a few bits of paper. Mine fit better than that. I used to the planer to get the width on a 2X 3/4 piece of oak and then ripped the thickness to a bit over. I then went back to the planer and cut them down to the correct thickness. I did it with longer pieces so that I can plane them safely.
I did not cut the runner thinner than the slot depth because the runner does not "bottom out" on the SS slot. Do you think that is a correct assumption?
He raised a question about the flatness of the fence as well. He passed over that, but if you use plywood like he suggests, what do you think he would do to flatten it. I would not be real keen on running it through the planer. But I am using a solid piece of old "really" 3/4 ply as the fence, I may need to flatten it or replace it with some thing else. I am not buying an 8/4 chunk of maple for a clamping table!

[Ed in Tampa]

NO, that is not absolutely correct.

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dusty
Did you make these? On the cut off board the one that catches the cut offs. You have it cut through like a ZCP but is this safe. Can the board move? My cut off from SS which isn't nearly as wide moves a little from time to time.

Also if you did make those boards how did you drill them?

One last question again if you made them how did you finish the edges?

Great work looks super
Ed

[dusty]

dusty
Did you make these? On the cut off board the one that catches the cut offs. You have it cut through like a ZCP but is this safe. Can the board move? My cut off from SS which isn't nearly as wide moves a little from time to time.

Also if you did make those boards how did you drill them?

One last question again if you made them how did you finish the edges?

Great work looks super
Ed

No, Ed, I did not make these. The sled is an old version of 555535 and the other piece (the Auxillary Table) is 555526.

However, I did modify the Auxillary Table. I caused it to be a ZCI by moving it so that it fits tight against the Sliding Cross Cut Table and then I cut the kerf into it. It cut the kerf a bit wider than would need to be just to eliminate any contact with the blade.

NOTE: I typically cut kerfs that function like a ZCI with the quill "fully retracted". If I am religious at doing that, the ZCI lasts a lot longer.

The Auxillary measures 6 7/8"x 23 3/4" x 1/2" and it mounts on the Main Table in the left hand miter track. Mine has four sets of holes drilled in it. The miter bar is mounted to the underside by using one pair of these holes. If I was to make one, I would probably make it at least twice as wide (14"). The existing width allows for many of the cut offs to fall to the floor. If it was wider, fewer would do that. Many times my cut off is not the scrap piece.

Don't ask me why there are four sets. I do not know. One set, however, positions the Auxillary Table right where it needs to be to fit flush against the Sliding Cross Cut Table. I don't think that was an accident. However, there are no instructions from Shopsmith telling the user to do this.

I do not see it as a hazard at all. It is secured in the miter track by the miter bar that came with 555526.

I don't understand your question regarding drilling the holes. Maybe my comments have already addressed the basis of your question. If not, ask again.

[dlbristol]

I finally got to finish my cross cut sled. Finishing some doors for a rental kept me from any dust making activities for a while. I made the base from new plywood, hoping to have a flatter base, that worked well. The front and back fences are recycled 3/4 ply from some very old cabinet doors, the blade guard is reclaimed shipping stickers from the rental doors and the runners are scrap red oak from a bed project. I set the fence with my largest Groz square and clamped it down and put in 1 screw. I did the 5 cut method discussed here earlier and on the first try, I got a difference of .0045 in. over 12.5 inches. I remeasured 4-5 times, to be sure I was not fooling myself and go similar numbers each time. I recut the same board again and got very close to the same values. I got .0049 over 12.25 inches on the second cut. I screwed the fence in place and made some test cuts that seem to be very good. I am pleased with the results. The stop block is just a 3/4 in ply block with a 1/4 in bolt and wing nut. The slot was made by cutting a slot in the 3/4 in fence, covering it with a 1/2 ply sheet and then cutting a narrower (1/4 plus) slot in that. I sanded, stained and sealed the sled and then waxed the runners and bottom. The runners took a tiny bit of scraping to remove a snug spot, but other than that it went pretty much as planned. I think I actually did this right and have a good working sled. Thanks to all for the help and advice.

[JPG]

I finally got to finish my cross cut sled. Finishing some doors for a rental kept me from any dust making activities for a while. I made the base from new plywood, hoping to have a flatter base, that worked well. The front and back fences are recycled 3/4 ply from some very old cabinet doors, the blade guard is reclaimed shipping stickers from the rental doors and the runners are scrap red oak from a bed project. I set the fence with my largest Groz square and clamped it down and put in 1 screw. I did the 5 cut method discussed here earlier and on the first try, I got a difference of .0045 in. over 12.5 inches. I remeasured 4-5 times, to be sure I was not fooling myself and go similar numbers each time. I recut the same board again and got very close to the same values. I got .0049 over 12.25 inches on the second cut. I screwed the fence in place and made some test cuts that seem to be very good. I am pleased with the results. The stop block is just a 3/4 in ply block with a 1/4 in bolt and wing nut. The slot was made by cutting a slot in the 3/4 in fence, covering it with a 1/2 ply sheet and then cutting a narrower (1/4 plus) slot in that. I sanded, stained and sealed the sled and then waxed the runners and bottom. The runners took a tiny bit of scraping to remove a snug spot, but other than that it went pretty much as planned. I think I actually did this right and have a good working sled. Thanks to all for the help and advice.

Good looking sled!:)

[dlbristol]

Thanks! I used it this weekend a bit and it seems to work well. yahoo! I tried to incorporate as many of the features that I saw other places that also were practical for me. Those are not always the same thing! Keeping the front fence flat by gluing and clamping the 1/2 in ply and the 3/4 in ply to my bench top was a great idea from some one. I also was able to flatten the sled bottom by clamping it to the bench top and then putting the back fence on. it really pulled the small amount of rocking out it. I would have never thought to leave a small rabbit on the bottom of the from fence for saw dust. I would not have left the stop block as short as I did either. The best part of the project was following along with Dusty and others as they shared all their ideas and experience. Dusty contributes the proper focus on precision, Farmer kept it pretty simple. I used Dusty's set up technique. Now that I have made one that I can use, I may try my have at some other types of jigs. I still think the best idea I saw was Dusty's! I just am not sure i could duplicate it.

[dusty]

Thanks! I used it this weekend a bit and it seems to work well. yahoo! I tried to incorporate as many of the features that I saw other places that also were practical for me. Those are not always the same thing! Keeping the front fence flat by gluing and clamping the 1/2 in ply and the 3/4 in ply to my bench top was a great idea from some one. I also was able to flatten the sled bottom by clamping it to the bench top and then putting the back fence on. it really pulled the small amount of rocking out it. I would have never thought to leave a small rabbit on the bottom of the from fence for saw dust. I would not have left the stop block as short as I did either. The best part of the project was following along with Dusty and others as they shared all their ideas and experience. Dusty contributes the proper focus on precision, Farmer kept it pretty simple. I used Dusty's set up technique. Now that I have made one that I can use, I may try my have at some other types of jigs. I still think the best idea I saw was Dusty's! I just am not sure i could duplicate it.

Believe me Dave, you can duplicate it. It might be interesting for you to know that what you see in related postings is the result of three different attempts. They all worked (sorta) but I had issues with all of them.

Yours looks great and I am proud to have been some influence.

[dlbristol]

I might share that one thing that ( I THINK)allowed me to square this up pretty much on the first try was a totally unintended event. My sled is longer on the right side and it hangs over the edge of the saw table. I was able to push the sled forward until the blade teeth were buried in the fence and still have the clamp I was using clear the table. Not possible with the headstock on the left. Total accident that I put the first screw on the left forcing adjustment on the right! I used a 2nd clamp to pull the square tight to the fence and the then I could move both the sled, the fence and the blade( rotation) to get a good square setting. This is important I think because my Groz square is only a 6 in model. I think having all that flex ability allowed me to work around the teeth on the saw. All of the adjustment was done off the smooth face of the plate. The fence clamp on the right was easy to reach and control while I used my left hand to align things.

[dusty]

I might share that one thing that ( I THINK)allowed me to square this up pretty much on the first try was a totally unintended event. My sled is longer on the right side and it hangs over the edge of the saw table. I was able to push the sled forward until the blade teeth were buried in the fence and still have the clamp I was using clear the table. Not possible with the headstock on the left. Total accident that I put the first screw on the left forcing adjustment on the right! I used a 2nd clamp to pull the square tight to the fence and the then I could move both the sled, the fence and the blade( rotation) to get a good square setting. This is important I think because my Groz square is only a 6 in model. I think having all that flex ability allowed me to work around the teeth on the saw. All of the adjustment was done off the smooth face of the plate. The fence clamp on the right was easy to reach and control while I used my left hand to align things.

I gotta think about this. I did secure the fence on the left (the pivot point) and then move and clamp the fence (for alignment) on the right. However, doing it the other way might have worked just as well for me because my fence does extend beyond the main table on both sides. I'm thinking.....