Idler Shaft, Bearings, and Sheaves
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Idler Shaft, Bearings, and Sheaves
In a thread on Shopsmith Bearings, in my post #34 I asked some questions about idler bearings. JPG responded but he raised more questions for me. I'm starting this thread to avoid diluting the original discussion.
I don't understand the water pump analogy for the original design of the idler eccentric. Please explain.
I'm rehabing my Redie and want to replace all the bearings. And I'm converting from gilmer to poly. Most of the parts including a 2 bearing quill were part of my purchase.
In my post I said my 500 was of a mixed heritage. I have an A casting. My 3/4 hp Franklin Electric motor's shaft does not have an oil hole. But my control sheave does have one. JPG said SS had redesigned the idler bearing. So with my mixed heritage, I'm not sure what vintage of bearing I have. Look here.
[ATTACH]16715[/ATTACH]
This is a picture of my control sheave.
[ATTACH]16714[/ATTACH]
So, do I have the original or new idler bearing design?
There is an eBayer selling idler and button bearings. Are there any public specs on these two bearings? Are bearings that can be replaced on an existing shaft commercially available?
Or must I buy the entire idler bearing, shaft, eccentric, and idler sheave assembly?
I don't understand the water pump analogy for the original design of the idler eccentric. Please explain.
I'm rehabing my Redie and want to replace all the bearings. And I'm converting from gilmer to poly. Most of the parts including a 2 bearing quill were part of my purchase.
In my post I said my 500 was of a mixed heritage. I have an A casting. My 3/4 hp Franklin Electric motor's shaft does not have an oil hole. But my control sheave does have one. JPG said SS had redesigned the idler bearing. So with my mixed heritage, I'm not sure what vintage of bearing I have. Look here.
[ATTACH]16715[/ATTACH]
This is a picture of my control sheave.
[ATTACH]16714[/ATTACH]
So, do I have the original or new idler bearing design?
There is an eBayer selling idler and button bearings. Are there any public specs on these two bearings? Are bearings that can be replaced on an existing shaft commercially available?
Or must I buy the entire idler bearing, shaft, eccentric, and idler sheave assembly?
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Have a safe day!
Oddie
510(upgraded 500), 500, 10ER, power station, belt sander, bandsaw, jointer, SS compressor, jigsaw, dust collector
Oddie
510(upgraded 500), 500, 10ER, power station, belt sander, bandsaw, jointer, SS compressor, jigsaw, dust collector
- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
oddie wrote:In a thread on Shopsmith Bearings, in my post #34 I asked some questions about idler bearings. JPG responded but he raised more questions for me. I'm starting this thread to avoid diluting the original discussion.
I don't understand the water pump analogy for the original design of the idler eccentric. Please explain.
I'm rehabing my Redie and want to replace all the bearings. And I'm converting from gilmer to poly. Most of the parts including a 2 bearing quill were part of my purchase.
In my post I said my 500 was of a mixed heritage. I have an A casting. My 3/4 hp Franklin Electric motor's shaft does not have an oil hole. But my control sheave does have one. JPG said SS had redesigned the idler bearing. So with my mixed heritage, I'm not sure what vintage of bearing I have. Look here.
[ATTACH]16715[/ATTACH]
This is a picture of my control sheave.
[ATTACH]16714[/ATTACH]
So, do I have the original or new idler bearing design? Original water pump bearing and eccentric sleeve.
There is an eBayer selling idler and button bearings. Are there any public specs on these two bearings? Are bearings that can be replaced on an existing shaft commercially available? Not for the water pump bearing shaft.
Or must I buy the entire idler bearing, shaft, eccentric, and idler sheave assembly?
To use the newer idler shaft/bearing, a new eccentric is also needed. The control sheave(and all other parts attached to the idler shaft) are compatible with both versions. Only the shaft and bearings are different, but the eccentric needs to match the version used.
TTWIUI:)
P.S. Converting from Gilmer to Poly-V requires replacing control sheave, main shaft, and quill(the main shaft and quill splines are different). Not an inexpensive upgrade. A power Pro upgrade may make more sense in the long run! New motor, new idler shaft etc., new main shaft etc., new 2 bearing quill, new belts. Original parts = casting, belt cover, quill shaft advance etc, headstock lock, motor pan. But you seem to have already got the conversion stuff.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Thank you for the quick response. I do have a better understanding of the idler. Since I have the original idler design, could someone post a picture of the new design?
Also, could someone explain the relationship of the original design to a water pump? I don't see how they are similar. My life experience in this area is limited to pump handles at the kitchen sink (my Grandmother) and the magic of running water.
Also, could someone explain the relationship of the original design to a water pump? I don't see how they are similar. My life experience in this area is limited to pump handles at the kitchen sink (my Grandmother) and the magic of running water.
Have a safe day!
Oddie
510(upgraded 500), 500, 10ER, power station, belt sander, bandsaw, jointer, SS compressor, jigsaw, dust collector
Oddie
510(upgraded 500), 500, 10ER, power station, belt sander, bandsaw, jointer, SS compressor, jigsaw, dust collector
- dusty
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oddie wrote:Thank you for the quick response. I do have a better understanding of the idler. Since I have the original idler design, could someone post a picture of the new design?
Also, could someone explain the relationship of the original design to a water pump? I don't see how they are similar. My life experience in this area is limited to pump handles at the kitchen sink (my Grandmother) and the magic of running water.
It has been posted. I'll see if I can locate it.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... r_note.htm
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Thanks to all. I never ever thought of an automotive connection. Throughout all of my brow beating on this issue my only focus was on getting water out of the ground.
BTW when I bought my Redie I also got a box of stuff. This included a 2 bearing poly quill, a poly drive, a nice poly belt (don't think it's new), and a new drive belt. So to complete my conversion I need to deal with the idler. That will take more bucks than I originally considered. I have bought new bearings for the quill and drive and will get new motor bearings when I have Bill Mayo make it reversible. Right now the entire 500 is in total disassembly with pieces parts in boxes, leaning against the wall, or laying on the floor. The headstock is empty. Even the casters are in pieces. The only thing I didn't take apart was the motor itself. It is out of the pan and the spring and sheaves are off. I also found a B casting somewhat cheap.
When I'm done I will no longer have a Redie. It will be your basic Rustoleum Hammered Grey. That assumes I can find the Grey. Haven't found it locally, yet. I've taken lot's of pictures to help with the reassembly. The biggest issue may be using the right set screws in the right places. I have Dusty's chart to help me with that.
Again, thanks.
BTW when I bought my Redie I also got a box of stuff. This included a 2 bearing poly quill, a poly drive, a nice poly belt (don't think it's new), and a new drive belt. So to complete my conversion I need to deal with the idler. That will take more bucks than I originally considered. I have bought new bearings for the quill and drive and will get new motor bearings when I have Bill Mayo make it reversible. Right now the entire 500 is in total disassembly with pieces parts in boxes, leaning against the wall, or laying on the floor. The headstock is empty. Even the casters are in pieces. The only thing I didn't take apart was the motor itself. It is out of the pan and the spring and sheaves are off. I also found a B casting somewhat cheap.
When I'm done I will no longer have a Redie. It will be your basic Rustoleum Hammered Grey. That assumes I can find the Grey. Haven't found it locally, yet. I've taken lot's of pictures to help with the reassembly. The biggest issue may be using the right set screws in the right places. I have Dusty's chart to help me with that.
Again, thanks.
Have a safe day!
Oddie
510(upgraded 500), 500, 10ER, power station, belt sander, bandsaw, jointer, SS compressor, jigsaw, dust collector
Oddie
510(upgraded 500), 500, 10ER, power station, belt sander, bandsaw, jointer, SS compressor, jigsaw, dust collector
I've heard of a Greenie, A goldie (also called a brownie) and a grey, but I've not heard of a"redie", until now.
What's that mean?
What's that mean?
www.wirewerkes.com
Hiding in a Joshua Tree.
Hiding in a Joshua Tree.
This should explain all.wiredone wrote:I've heard of a Greenie, A goldie (also called a brownie) and a grey, but I've not heard of a"redie", until now.
What's that mean?
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9868
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
wiredone wrote:I've heard of a Greenie, A goldie (also called a brownie) and a grey, but I've not heard of a"redie", until now.
What's that mean?
It means the PO(SS or at least a former employee(PO)) painted it red so as to not mistakenly get shipped to a customer.
Now question I have, is WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO REPLACE THE "A" CASTING WITH A "B"? Sure it is rougher. Sure it looks' more crude. Sure is is missing the 'access' hole. But all the bores are the same. And lastly it is HEAVIER(more stout/stronger. . .).
It is MY intention to install a DIY Power Pro upgrade in an "A" casting.
That is my humble view of this!:)
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange