Bandsaw Bearings
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- dusty
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Bandsaw Bearings
[quote="JPG40504"]The dual bearings at the blade guides are more functional with larger blades.
They will not keep the entire blade from moving sideways(in/out).
True they are not a ss option. That idea originated elsewhere and was implemented by many who frequent here.
If you are using cool blocks tight against the sides of the blade, the dual bearing probably is not much of an improvement.[/quote]
I have the cool blocks set very close but NOT tight against the blade. I use a .003" feeler gauge to position cool blocks.
You won't read this anywhere other than here. My procedure not Shopsmith's.
They will not keep the entire blade from moving sideways(in/out).
True they are not a ss option. That idea originated elsewhere and was implemented by many who frequent here.
If you are using cool blocks tight against the sides of the blade, the dual bearing probably is not much of an improvement.[/quote]
I have the cool blocks set very close but NOT tight against the blade. I use a .003" feeler gauge to position cool blocks.
You won't read this anywhere other than here. My procedure not Shopsmith's.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- dusty
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Bandsaw Bearings
Remember that the original design has no gap at all. The bearings function is to limit how far back the blade moves.fgrule wrote:Another question for those who have done a dual bearing upgrade: Is it advisable to use a thin shim between the 2 bearings? Or does it depend on the bearings themselves (do some pairs have too small a gap for the blade to engage?).
How deep does the blade sit between the 2 bearings?
Thanks,
Fred
I have not used a shim and see no need for one. I would not want the blade down deep between the bearings at all. Just so that the spline of the blade touches the bearing.
PS: With your persuasion I did a search and found this from Bill Mayo:
"Thanks. I use the auto-track 2 bearings and bolt for both the upper and lower bandsaw guide bearings. I use 6 ABEC3 rated bearings instead of the motor rated bearings that came with the bandsaw. I have been using a thin shim between the bearings to hekp keep the blade tracking between the 2 bearings. It works very much like the Cater Stablizer for a much cheaper price. "
Still another quote from Bill:
Shopsmith Bandsaw Bearings I have been using 2 higher quality 627Z bearings at all 3 bandsaw bearing/bushing locations for customers. I had to use a very thin shim on the inside bearing on the upper and lower blade guide locations and file a small notch on the blade guides for the outside bearings to clear. I used the 514008 shoulder screw in all 3 locations.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I had seen mention of a shim (Bill Mayo, I think). I'm sure all bearings are not the same....some may fit tightly, with little gap, others more gap.So the setup is doubtlessly a case by case thing.dusty wrote:Remember that the original design has no gap at all. The bearings function is to limit how far back the blade moves.
I have not used a shim and see no need for one. I would not want the blade down deep between the bearings at all. Just so that the spline of the blade touches the bearing.
I can see how having the blade too deep between the bearings would be problematic!
I'm guessing that the blade size (thickness at the back) will also affect how deeply the blade in the "groove" between adjacent bearings.
Fred
I used a thin shim/washer, from the older bushing. I this if I was going to be cutting circles with the bandsaw. I am sure anyone can try a different thickness shim/washer if they have similar problem with the blade tracking/staying in between the two autotracking bearings when used as blade guide replacements. The additional shim/washer is an optional method I have used but not required. Also, I use the free Shopsmith sharpening stone to round the back edge of the blade to better seat between the 2 bearings.dusty wrote:Remember that the original design has no gap at all. The bearings function is to limit how far back the blade moves.
I have not used a shim and see no need for one. I would not want the blade down deep between the bearings at all. Just so that the spline of the blade touches the bearing.
PS: With your persuasion I did a search and found this from Bill Mayo:
"Thanks. I use the auto-track 2 bearings and bolt for both the upper and lower bandsaw guide bearings. I use 6 ABEC3 rated bearings instead of the motor rated bearings that came with the bandsaw. I have been using a thin shim between the bearings to help keep the blade tracking between the 2 bearings. It works very much like the Carter Stablizer for a much cheaper price. "
Still another quote from Bill:
Shopsmith Bandsaw Bearings I have been using 2 higher quality 627Z bearings at all 3 bandsaw bearing/bushing locations for customers. I had to use a very thin shim on the inside bearing on the upper and lower blade guide locations and file a small notch on the blade guides for the outside bearings to clear. I used the 514008 shoulder screw in all 3 locations.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Bumping this Info up, so people can see this VXB part-number. I've been using these on my bandsaw lately, and I like their quietness to date. These are rubber-shielded rather than metal-shielded.wa2crk wrote:This is for the what it's worth department
VXB has the blade backup bearings on their website.
It is kit # 12217 and they are designated as an LR50/7NPPU.
They are a double row bearing so they are more than a single row bearing.
Bill V
Chris
- dusty
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Which bearing position (s) are you using this in. Just one or all three.nuhobby wrote:Bumping this Info up, so people can see this VXB part-number. I've been using these on my bandsaw lately, and I like their quietness to date. These are rubber-shielded rather than metal-shielded.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Chris,nuhobby wrote:Bumping this Info up, so people can see this VXB part-number. I've been using these on my bandsaw lately, and I like their quietness to date. These are rubber-shielded rather than metal-shielded.
Would these bearings work if I upgrade my BS per the CAD drawings earlier in this tread so that I would have double bearing backing the blade with the blade riding at the intersection between of the two bearings (top guide and bottom guide)?
Thanks
Jack