Quick Help: Buying Used 10-ER Model

aldenw · Post by **aldenw** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:14 am

Hey guys, I'm an amateur woodworking looking to primarily turn briar (tobacco pipes), but also probably do a number of other fun little projects. I spotted a shopsmith 10er on craigslist for $150 (SN: ER36612) and was thinking about picking it up.
http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/tls/3128679227.html

I wanted your input before I buy it on Friday though. I'm on a ridiculously tight budget and can't afford repairs (guy says it runs fine). I need to know if this is a risky purchase or not. Furthermore, will a tool this old be able to do what I need it to?

Thanks guys.

kschwarz20 · Post by **kschwarz20** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:01 am

I've got three of these 10E/10ER machines One I inherited and two I bought for about $100 each. $150 for this machine is an a decent deal. The machine looks like it is in reasonable shape, but could probably use a light restore. Obviously, be sure it runs smoothly before buying. This model has not been made since about 1953. Shopsmith does not support it, but many of the parts they sell work with it. I don't do a lot of turning, but many say its heavy weight and stability make in an outstanding lathe. These machines are rock solid. If it is running, it is unlikely you will need to spend much to maintain it. If the belt is old I'd replace it as the older belts will slip some reducing your power, but that is about a $20 repair.

It does not appear to include some nice, but non-essential options including the speed changer and retractable casters. You can pick them both up on eBay, but they typically run $100+ each. The casters make it easy to move the machine around, and the speed changer can be nice for turning because it gives you a more continuous range of speeds with less belt changing. Also, see if it comes with anything else that is not shown. In particular, blade arbors, lathe centers, lathe chisels, Allen wretches, and a chuck with chuck key. All of these things are readily available used or in many cases new from Shopsmith (they fit the machine you are looking at as well as the new machines).

Overall I'd say it is probably worth the price of $150, especially if you want to get something sooner rather than later. You could hold out and find a machine for as low as $100 with speed changer and retractable casters, but it could take months to come across and get such a machine and it would be a really great deal.

If you do get it, be sure to join the users group on Yahoo. You may want to reach to them or look through their site for advice on this machine too. They are a great source of information and have been invaluable to me as I have restored and operated my machines. They are at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shopsmith10ERusers/

aldenw · Post by **aldenw** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:12 am

Wow, great reply! Makes me feel a lot more confident about buying a 50+ year old machine!
I failed to mention in my original post that it does come with a box of parts, including turning knives, that are not pictured. The speed changer sounds useful; how would I describe it? The seller is the grandson, and not a particularly experienced shopsmith guy.

Thanks a bunch.

kschwarz20 · Post by **kschwarz20** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:16 am

It is unlikely that the machine has a speed changer as it would almost definitely be mounted on the machine. You can see a picture of one here: http://www.americanartifacts.com/smma/advert/aw77.htm

You can see one mounted here: http://www.mkctools.com/10ermatthews.htm

aldenw · Post by **aldenw** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 1:14 pm

Okay. Do you think that will be a big detriment? I've done very little turning, so I don't know how critical that speed adjustment would be (most of my woodworking experience has been in casual lutherie). I can still adjust the speed to an extent, correct?

The seller's sending me a picture of the extra parts tonight.

In terms of cleaning this bad boy up, are there any tips you've got? Steel wool and oil? That one on the website you linked to sure does look spick and span (though I don't need mine to look that nice)!

I'm also hoping to get my hands on a self-centering, 2 or 4 jawed chuck for the lathe. I gather that the chuck on this is unthreaded, 5/8" (same as the current Mark V). Do you know what the best, lowest cost options might be for me? (I don't want to get greedy. :P)

rpd · Post by **rpd** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:28 pm

aldenw wrote: In terms of cleaning this bad boy up, are there any tips you've got? Steel wool and oil? That one on the website you linked to sure does look spick and span (though I don't need mine to look that nice)!

From the picture there appears to be only light surface rust on the tubes. On mine I "wet sanded" them using green Scotch brite pads dampened with Evapo-Rust, in a few spots where there was pitting I used sandpaper. I am pleased with the way they turned out.

Here is a picture of my pinion shaft before

[ATTACH]17968[/ATTACH]

and after

[ATTACH]17969[/ATTACH]

using this process.

Then wipe them clean and wax them. Johnsons original Paste Wax (JPW) is preferred but unavailable in Canada so I used TreWax clear paste wax.[HTML][/HTML]

aldenw · Post by **aldenw** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:05 pm

Looks great, thanks for the cleaning tips!

By the way, he sent the pictures of the accessories.

From the photos, I'm a little unclear on how the lathe would set up. Then again, I have no idea how these shopsmith thingies convert/work yet.

You mention not seeing a chuck/chuck key. That seems like a fairly central part, no? Maybe I'm confused. I'm also not sure what kind of saw blade that is. But that's not terribly important.
Photo:
[ATTACH]17970[/ATTACH]

derekdarling · Post by **derekdarling** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:41 pm

JPW (Johnsons Paste Wax) is your friend. After you get the way tubes cleaned up, use JPW and you should have no problems. Works nice on wood, too!

Another 'upgrade' that I am in the middle of is to acquire a used treadmill, and use the motor and speed control on the 10ER. Most of these are DC, variable speed, 2HP motors. You can get pretty slow, especailly with the belt reduction, and they tend to have a decent torque at slow speeds.

Also, if you are going to use the lathe, think about adding a shelf below the table, and toss in a few sandbags. You'll be amazed at how this one trick smooths out the operation.

Welcome to the obsession, and the forum. And remember, if there ain't pictures, it didn't happen (the work you turn out, that is).

Derek

aldenw · Post by **aldenw** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:04 am

Haha, thanks Derek. As an audio engineer by trade, I am no stranger to obsessions! That treadmill deal sounds like a bit more than I'd be looking to chew, I've got some heavy junk lying around I'll toss on to a lower shelf.

So, there's no chuck included, but the seller's planning to take of $40 dollars so I can replace that.
Would this bad boy do the trick?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-Drill ... 4d02f778ef

I'm a little confused on how all this stuff attaches, but I'm sure it'll make more sense when I have the machine in front of me. I plan to mainly use the drill in tandem with the lathe; that is, with a stationary bit and the piece of wood spinning.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:22 am

That chuck or a similar model is the drill chuck you want.

If you want to mount the drill chuck in the tail stock, you'll need one of these adapters as well -- http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... karbor.htm

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