Quick Help: Buying Used 10-ER Model
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Nova also has these:
http://www.novatoolsusa.com/NOVA-Soft-Jaw-Set-6021.htm
I have done some odd things with them but I have never attempted to make them in to a two jaw chuck. Depending on what size you might need these might be an option.
The small case cover that was shown can be done by using a flat faceplate, so long as the parts are small things can be offset without any problems.
Thanks for the link, it was interesting to look at.
Ed
http://www.novatoolsusa.com/NOVA-Soft-Jaw-Set-6021.htm
I have done some odd things with them but I have never attempted to make them in to a two jaw chuck. Depending on what size you might need these might be an option.
The small case cover that was shown can be done by using a flat faceplate, so long as the parts are small things can be offset without any problems.
Thanks for the link, it was interesting to look at.
Ed
They aren't gonna be that big; as I said, briar tobacco pipes. But I saw someone mention that the nova g3 didn't open wide enough to hold some briar blocks. No idea if this is true though!
Happy to share! I don't really need soft so much as big. The nova tower jaws would be ideal... if only they were free.
Happy to share! I don't really need soft so much as big. The nova tower jaws would be ideal... if only they were free.
aldenw wrote:But I saw someone mention that the nova g3 didn't open wide enough to hold some briar blocks.
I think you'll run across that problem with any chuck. Just need to get another set of jaws for it.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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kschwarz20
- Gold Member
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:22 pm
- Location: Centreville, VA
Restoration
Several posts back you asked about restoration. You just need to cleanup the tubes enough so the table and headstock slide smoothly. Many people clean them up more to get a better look. Scotchbright pads and sandpaper (80, then 80, then 10 grit) used around the tube (not lengthwise) does a nice job. Once the tubes are cleaned up, use some Johnson's butcher's wax to help things slide better and help keep down rust. Don't use car wax, butcher's wax provides some lubrication and some corrosion prevention, but car wax does not provide any lubrication value.
Here are some good places to look for more info:
Mickyd's great full up restore guide: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3503
Mckyd's tube cleanup links: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3219
Great info from Skip Campbell (perhaps the most knowledgeable guy out there on these machines) on cleaning up the tubes:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shopsmith ... sage/14891
A gallery of my latest restoration: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kschwarz20 ... 628899564/
As far as how important a speed changer is, I'd defer to others to answer as I don't do too much turning.
Here are some good places to look for more info:
Mickyd's great full up restore guide: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3503
Mckyd's tube cleanup links: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3219
Great info from Skip Campbell (perhaps the most knowledgeable guy out there on these machines) on cleaning up the tubes:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shopsmith ... sage/14891
A gallery of my latest restoration: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kschwarz20 ... 628899564/
As far as how important a speed changer is, I'd defer to others to answer as I don't do too much turning.
Thanks for the replies guys; that's some great info on cleaning this bad boy up. I'll be sure to post pictures when I get her up and running!
I'm still a little torn on the chuck issue. It's a lot of money for me so I've got to get it right. My concern with the Nova is that I don't think the jaws that come with it will work, so I'd really be relying on being able to make my own wooden set, which I'm a little hesitant to do.
The PSI chuck also has jaws that can close very tight, which would be good for working on pipe stems. I'm seeing good reviews on the Shopsmith adapter they sell. Maybe they fixed the problem?
How big of an issue is it that the adapter distances the chuck from the motor?
Just for reference, my ideal would be something like these: http://www.penguinbriar.com/cust/make3/11.JPG
I'm still a little torn on the chuck issue. It's a lot of money for me so I've got to get it right. My concern with the Nova is that I don't think the jaws that come with it will work, so I'd really be relying on being able to make my own wooden set, which I'm a little hesitant to do.
The PSI chuck also has jaws that can close very tight, which would be good for working on pipe stems. I'm seeing good reviews on the Shopsmith adapter they sell. Maybe they fixed the problem?
How big of an issue is it that the adapter distances the chuck from the motor?
Just for reference, my ideal would be something like these: http://www.penguinbriar.com/cust/make3/11.JPG
Here is an alternative that possibly could get you started with very little money -- http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-4-Jaw ... aded/H8047
Art in Western Pennsylvania
The only JPW (Johnsons Paste Wax) to use is "The Original Formula"derekdarling wrote:JPW (Johnsons Paste Wax) is your friend. After you get the way tubes cleaned up, use JPW and you should have no problems. Works nice on wood, too!
Derek
Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Good to know. WD-40 wouldn't be sufficient?fjimp wrote:The only JPW (Johnsons Paste Wax) to use is "The Original Formula"
Jim
Only problem is that I don't think that guy's self-centering, which I think I need (though I confess, I'm not entirely sure what it means).pennview wrote:Here is an alternative that possibly could get you started with very little money -- http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-4-Jaw ... aded/H8047
That's true it isn't a scroll chuck, but you can do anything with an independent chuck that you can do with a scroll chuck and then some. It just takes some time to get things centered. With an independent, you can hold irregular shapes firmly and do eccentric turning as well. Whether it does exactly what you want is something you'll have to decide. It's really a metalworking design, so how well it will hold chunks of wood may be a problem. But it is cheap.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
I do like cheap. I appreciate the info pennview; given my novice-ness I think I'll stick to the scrolling chuck for now.pennview wrote:That's true it isn't a scroll chuck, but you can do anything with an independent chuck that you can do with a scroll chuck and then some. It just takes some time to get things centered. With an independent, you can hold irregular shapes firmly and do eccentric turning as well. Whether it does exactly what you want is something you'll have to decide. It's really a metalworking design, so how well it will hold chunks of wood may be a problem. But it is cheap.
I think I'm leaning towards the PSI chuck right now. The nova looks like a more solid product, but the PSI can do everything I need it to straight out of the box for the same price. Given my budget, that might be the way to go.
The nova'd essentially be just the base without the jaws I'd need, for the same price.