Resawing

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Sep 15, 2012 2:37 pm

I don't do a lot of resawing and when I do it usually yields a piece that eventually goes through the surface planer.

Not the case for this project. I need some pieces cut thin enough that I can bend them and glue them together with other similar pieces. To do the laminate, I need a smooth gluing surface that I do not get from my resaw blade.

This brings me to my question. Should I expect a smoother surface than I am getting from this resaw blade.

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pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sat Sep 15, 2012 3:35 pm

Dusty, I think you should get a smoother cut. All those bumps suggest you're pausing or the blade is moving about as you cut, which it shouldn't. Try feeding in one smooth motion. A straight fence to guide the wood and a featherboard to hold the stock against the fence will allow to cut in one continuous feed, and have a push block handy for the last few inches.

I don't know which blade you're using, but I would think that a 3/8 or 1/4 blade would be adequate for the width of the wood you're cutting.

You can use the drum sander and run the wood between it and the fence in drill press mode or between the drum and table to smooth out any irregularities, but take very light cuts.

backhertz · Post by **backhertz** » Sat Sep 15, 2012 4:18 pm

Here is a YouTube video with Doug Reid re-sawing using a 5/8" blade. His thin piece has no lines in it that I can see.
Enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19KUOXatLPY

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Sep 15, 2012 5:03 pm

pennview wrote:Dusty, I think you should get a smoother cut. All those bumps suggest you're pausing or the blade is moving about as you cut, which it shouldn't. Try feeding in one smooth motion. A straight fence to guide the wood and a featherboard to hold the stock against the fence will allow to cut in one continuous feed, and have a push block handy for the last few inches.

I don't know which blade you're using, but I would think that a 3/8 or 1/4 blade would be adequate for the width of the wood you're cutting.

You can use the drum sander and run the wood between it and the fence in drill press mode or between the drum and table to smooth out any irregularities, but take very light cuts.

I did not use a feather board and I tried to maintain a constant feed rate. I know I paused once to reach for the push stick. The blade is 6 tpi and either 3/8" or 1/2". It is 1/2" from the back of the blade to the tip of the teeth (3/8" to the bottom of the gullet). It is a Shopsmith blade that I have had for a very long time but have hardly ever used. It surfaced a few weeks ago during a rummage session in the shed.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:10 am

A bent section or errant tooth on the blade?

What does the other 'half' look like?
Is it a mirror image, or identical?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:15 am

backhertz wrote:Here is a YouTube video with Doug Reid re-sawing using a 5/8" blade. His thin piece has no lines in it that I can see.
Enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19KUOXatLPY

The cuts that Doug got from the PowerPro/Bandsaw setup were certainly smoother than what I am getting.

Unfortunately, I am currently dependent on my simple, twenty year old Mark V.

This does show though that this cut can be done with much smoother resulting surfaces than I am getting. I guess it is time to invest in a new resaw blade.

Under normal circumstances, I would be satisfied with this. It is only because I am going to laminate the pieces in a curve that I want smoother surfaces. Yes, I can sand them smooth but I was hoping they would come off the bandsaw smoother than this.

These are the facing cuts you ask for JPG.

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I used a feather oard for this cut and I maintained a near constant feed rate the entire length.

When it gets light, I'll make a couple more cuts at a slower feed rate but I don't expect a big difference. I'll also do a drift test. The fence is set square to the table (parallel to the blade) now.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:56 am

I'll also do a drift test. The fence is set square to the table (parallel to the blade) now.

That was going to be my suggestion.
But, no matter my preparation and methods, my resaws still need sanding or planing. Using a 35 Y.O. SS band saw.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:13 am

Gene Howe wrote:I'll also do a drift test. The fence is set square to the table (parallel to the blade) now.

That was going to be my suggestion.
But, no matter my preparation and methods, my resaws still need sanding or planing. Using a 35 Y.O. SS band saw.

OKAY. Last self imposed test cut. The fence has been adjusted for drift, the feather board is in place, speed is at 900 rpm, blade tension has been verified (no change).

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The only thing that I know to do is buy a new blade or get ready to sand a lot.

BTW I have been asked to make some replacement chair backs for a neighbor. The backs, obviously, have a natural curvature that I need to replicate.

JPG: These shots should answer your question regarding a "mirror image". No, not exactly a mirror but there is some "reflection".

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:17 pm

I think the blade is 'wobbling' or 'twisted'.

Manually rotate the wheel and observe the positioning of the edge of the blade against a straight edge(combination square head). I am guessing the blade oscillates in/out(sideways to blade travel).

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:51 pm

Mmm.... I get smoother resaws than that, but I use about 3tpi blades. With 6tpi there could be some dust-compaction or blade-heating effects going on?