lightnin wrote:Isn't resawing usually done with 3 or 4 tpi?
Usually. I use that for larger stuff or rougher cuts.
For smaller stuff, especially stuff too thin to plane or sand, I use a high-toorh 1/4" variable and a slow feed. You (almost) cant' see tooth marks.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
Today I swapped out of the carter guide and set up to do some resawing. I didn't get to start on it today but with in the next few days I will. In the past with my other bandsaw I had not used any sort of fence to do resawing, just a pivot guide. I will try the miter gauge method this time which is sort of a fence.
I have had limited experience with the shopsmith bandsaw so I'm looking forward to seeing the results with my resaw blade on. I have on a few occasions done some resawing with a cheap 1/4" blade with OK results.
When I get a few pieces cut I'll post some images so we can see what they look like.
reible wrote:Today I swapped out of the carter guide and set up to do some resawing. I didn't get to start on it today but with in the next few days I will. In the past with my other bandsaw I had not used any sort of fence to do resawing, just a pivot guide. I will try the miter gauge method this time which is sort of a fence.
I have had limited experience with the shopsmith bandsaw so I'm looking forward to seeing the results with my resaw blade on. I have on a few occasions done some resawing with a cheap 1/4" blade with OK results.
When I get a few pieces cut I'll post some images so we can see what they look like.
Ed
I was hoping someone would mention the use of pivot guide. I cannot see why they would not be a good answer to drift issues. Ed. what was your experience like using them?
Sam in Northfield, MN
A day without beer......could have been better
Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
keakap wrote:The upper bearing, coming to a gradual stop.
Good news-- the bearing is good.
Bad news-- its adjustment isn't.
I disagree. The upper guide bearing should NOT bear against the blade when NOT cutting. Coasting down would be normal. Excessive coasting would indicate a dry bearing.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I got my new blade today and in comparison to what I have used in the past (for resawing), it cuts much, much better.
The resulting cuts are not smooth as glass but it certainly good enough for me to veneer without additional sanding (I think?).
[ATTACH]18529[/ATTACH]
Old Blade
[ATTACH]18530[/ATTACH]
New Blade
[ATTACH]18531[/ATTACH]
New Blade
To perform these cuts, I did NO drift testing and did not adjust the fence. It is set parallel to the edge of the blade. The rip fence is not absolutely square to the table top. I'll have to deal with that before I start cutting project pieces. I did not dress the back edge of the blade. I'll do that latere unless the instructions that came with the blade tell me otherwise.
This is a 1/2" Woodslicer 3 to 4 tpi from Highland Woodworking. The very first non Shopsmith Bandsaw blade that I have ever owned and only the third non Shopsmith saw blade I have owned.
Attachments
New Bandsaw Blade 001 (Custom) (2).JPG (17.49 KiB) Viewed 2318 times
New Bandsaw Blade 002 (Custom).JPG (18.2 KiB) Viewed 2317 times
New Bandsaw Blade 004 (Custom).JPG (17.29 KiB) Viewed 2317 times
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:This is a 1/2" Woodslicer 3 to 4 tpi from Highland Woodworking. The very first non Shopsmith Bandsaw blade that I have ever owned and only the third non Shopsmith saw blade I have owned.
Ya must have won the lottery. :D
What do you think of it?
Last edited by beeg on Fri Feb 12, 2016 1:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
.
Bob
saminmn wrote:I was hoping someone would mention the use of pivot guide. I cannot see why they would not be a good answer to drift issues. Ed. what was your experience like using them?
Hi,
As I have said I've been a bandsaw user since 1970's and have never owned a fence until I picked up my shopsmith bandsaw and have the miter slot to make a fence.
A pivot guide does have its issues like anything else. You need to mark the line you are trying to cut to to use as a reference on each and every piece... things like that. You do gain the advantage of being able to adjust in real time to what is happening, but you need to develop a skill set along with that.
I'm not even sure how many if any bandsaw back then had a fence system standard (minus shopsmith of course).
I think that in a lot of cases the pivot method is the way to go, it is cheap and works fine with minimal time required to learn it.
I did get to my re-sawing today. I set up with the miter gauge and found I need no additional adjusting. I cut a 1/16" slice off then halved that to make another pass. Worked as well as I hoped it would.
What I did find was the miter gauge from a ebay purchase may need to be looked at. I think someone may have removed a washer or put the wrong one in. The protractor head was not square to the table. The blade was touching at the bottom of the extension and by the time you got to the top the blade was more then a 1/16" away. The saw checked out from table to blade so it has to be the miter gauge or the extension. I didn't feel like working on that so I just shimmed it and got back to my project.
[ATTACH]18532[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]18533[/ATTACH]
Resawing
I did promise photos but they all turned out poorly, mostly out of focus, we will have to revisit this another time. Maybe next time I'll try to use the other camera so you can see the quality of cut.
I'd say they all needed some light sanding, mostly you can feel the cut and to see it you have to get the light at the right angle. I cut some maple and some pine, no need to change any settings between the two.
Ripping
The rip cuts went really well except one I ran through and ended cutting off the side I had marked up. No big deal just stacked that one wrong in the pile and didn't notice until too late it was facing the wrong way. Some of the parts were as long as 32" and some as short as a couple of inches. Using the miter gauge as a rip fence worked really well, I can see me doing a lot more things that way in the future.
:D
