Resawing

[dusty]

If the re-saw surface is not good enough after all the effort you have made, you might try jointing the outside surface before each re-saw. That way at least one side will be good for gluing as is and the other side can be sanded after glue-up.

I applaud your persistence! I think that we all have learned something about better ways to work.

Forrest

That is a very good suggestion. As much as I dislike sanding, I should have thought of it.

Thankfully, I having gotten to where I can resaw and achieve a smooth enough surface to veneer with very little (if any) sanding being needed. The new blade produces a surface that is a great deal smoother than what started this thread.

[dusty]

I have done all the test cuts that I think are necessary. If I pay attention during the cuts, I can now achieve clean enough cuts to go directly to veneering with very little sanding.

I had two problems that needed to be resolved. One was too rough a cut from the resaw blade I had and the second was variable thicknesses.

The 1/2" Woodslicer 3-4 tpi seems to have resolved both.

[ATTACH]18548[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]18549[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]18550[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]18551[/ATTACH]

The stripes that you see in images 2 and 3 are not a optical illusions. Those are slightly rougher areas bordered by smoother areas. The rough areas can be made smooth with two or threes passes with a sanding block.

I'm going to glue up now but will probably be back to determine "why the rough areas".

[pennview]

Dusty, those cuts look very nice, especially considering the original cuts you were getting. The key to smooth cuts on the bandsaw is a slow and steady feed of the wood through the blade. I don't know if you're using one, but a feather board before the blade that hits the wood in the center of it's width helps a lot in steadying the stock as you feed it into the blade and gives you less to think about as you saw the wood.

Another thing that sometimes helps smooth a cut is a bit more tension, but one doesn't want to over do it because the Shopsmith is really a light bandsaw. Also, the gap between the blade and the guides allows the blade to wander a bit and can add to the roughness. If you're using cool blocks, they can be moved right against the blades but they'll wear much quicker. As longs as you're not overheating the blade while sawing with the blocks touching the blade, there is no real problem except for wear.

[dusty]

Dusty, those cuts look very nice, especially considering the original cuts you were getting. The key to smooth cuts on the bandsaw is a slow and steady feed of the wood through the blade. I don't know if you're using one, but a feather board before the blade that hits the wood in the center of it's width helps a lot in steadying the stock as you feed it into the blade and gives you less to think about as you saw the wood.

Another thing that sometimes helps smooth a cut is a bit more tension, but one doesn't want to over do it because the Shopsmith is really a light bandsaw. Also, the gap between the blade and the guides allows the blade to wander a bit and can add to the roughness. If you're using cool blocks, they can be moved right against the blades but they'll wear much quicker. As longs as you're not overheating the blade while sawing with the blocks touching the blade, there is no real problem except for wear.

I am running with a little bit less tension than I would have with the old resaw blade so I'll increase tension a little and move the cool blocks in against the blade.

We'll see tomorrow if that makes a difference.

I'm building curved chair backs either way.

[bffulgham]

Hey, Dusty.....
Looks like you've made good progress.

I've been working on a new project that required some resawing. So I don't hijack what you have going here, here's a link to my other thread.

Bud