Adjusting depth of cut on conical disc

[tdubnik]

I received my conical disc yesterday purchased on the most recent special. Got it set up with no problem and managed to make 90 degree cuts.

My question is what is the best way to adjust the depth of cut?

The way I see it is that you can move the fence closer after each pass or advance the quill. As I was trying this yesterday, neither method is very precise and it is difficult to know how much of a bite you are taking.

I am thinking that I can cut some shims that drop over the quill between the headstock casting and the quill bumper. If I do this I can make a pass, slip in a shim, lock the quill and make another pass and remove the thickness of the shim. To make multiple passes; drop in another shim and do it over again.

Any thoughts or better suggestions?

[algale]

I believe your proposed shim solution will work very well.

[dusty]

[quote="tdubnik"]I received my conical disc yesterday purchased on the most recent special. Got it set up with no problem and managed to make 90 degree cuts.

My question is what is the best way to adjust the depth of cut?

The way I see it is that you can move the fence closer after each pass or advance the quill. As I was trying this yesterday, neither method is very precise and it is difficult to know how much of a bite you are taking.

I am thinking that I can cut some shims that drop over the quill between the headstock casting and the quill bumper. If I do this I can make a pass, slip in a shim, lock the quill and make another pass and remove the thickness of the shim. To make multiple passes]
We have regular discussions, here on the forum, about precision adjustments of one thing or another. The question has to be just how precisely do you need to sand the edges when using the conical disk.

Using your method of shims should certainly work well. Feed rate needs to be considered too. Feed too slow and you sand too much.

If absolute accuracy is required - sand minut amounts and "snael up" on the required dimension. Buy digital calipers.

[tdubnik]

We have regular discussions, here on the forum, about precision adjustments of one thing or another. The question has to be just how precisely do you need to sand the edges when using the conical disk.

Using your method of shims should certainly work well. Feed rate needs to be considered too. Feed too slow and you sand too much.

If absolute accuracy is required - sand minut amounts and "snael up" on the required dimension. Buy digital calipers.

I really don't need to be better than about 1/64". I intend to sand some toy parts to final width and would like to be within that amount.

Could be I'm getting old but I have trouble getting a small adjustment moving either the fence or the quill. Once I make a pass and try to adjust, I invariably let something move too much and don't have a reference to put it back except to put the piece between the disc and fence and try to get it back.

I'm just looking for something a little easier.

[SDSSmith]

I really don't need to be better than about 1/64". I intend to sand some toy parts to final width and would like to be within that amount.

Could be I'm getting old but I have trouble getting a small adjustment moving either the fence or the quill. Once I make a pass and try to adjust, I invariably let something move too much and don't have a reference to put it back except to put the piece between the disc and fence and try to get it back.

I'm just looking for something a little easier.

I have had good success using the scale that comes with the newer 520 fences. It has 1/32" increments and that is close enough for me.

[JPG]

The quill stop dial can be used as a reference. It is easier to see the dial movement relative to the index mark.

I will snug the quill lock(to the point the spring washer acts as a drag) and gently bump the handle for small increments.

I believe if you retract the quill, slip the workpiece between the fence and the disc with the end of the workpiece just off a vertical line(the active cutting area)and advancing the quill until it just touches the workpiece, that the disc will now be just slightly closer to the fence. The amount of 'advancement' can be controlled by the distance from the vertical line. The further away from the vertical line, the deeper the next pass.

[greitz]

You can rig up a fence micro-adjuster using the adjustable stop collar. I didn't try it with the conical disk, but I see no reason why it won't work.

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... top+collar

If you don't have an adjustable stop collar, you could do something similar using a bolt with 32 threads per inch. Then one half turn of the bolt would be 1/64".

Gary

[tdubnik]

I decided to make a set of shims and give it a try.

I pad cut the shims on my scroll saw by pad cutting them between two pieces of 1/4" hardboard. This worked well and in a flash I had about a dozen shims. The card stock I used measured .0075 so if I stack two together it's pretty darn close to 1/64".

I decided to use the two 1/4" hardboard pieces as the base point and adjust from there. So, I inserted the hardboard retracted the quill until it compressed the rubber washer, let it go and then tightened the quill. I set the fence from there for my first cut. Subsequent cuts were made by adding shims between the hardboard pieces and turned out very predictable.

I can now make my incremental cuts quickly without futzing around.

I am very satisfied with the results.
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[dusty]

tdubnik: NEAT APPROACH. Precision without hassle.

[JPG]

tdubnik: NEAT APPROACH. Precision without hassle.

Yes Indeed!!!!