Greenie Lubrication

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:33 pm

Going forward after a greenie rebuild, I was wondering what the slickest method of oiling the upper sheeve IF you have no hole behind the logo.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:53 pm

mrhart wrote:Going forward after a greenie rebuild, I was wondering what the slickest method of oiling the upper sheeve IF you have no hole behind the logo.

Sadly it includes dropping the motor pan!:(

Raise to vertical, install the worktable from the bottom of the carriage.

By positioning the table close to the headstock, it provides a shelf for the motor/pan to 'sit' while ya oil the control sheave.

Culprit · Post by **Culprit** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:18 am

The slickest method is to go ahead and drill the hole behind the logo. It'll be a pain the first time, but you'll thank yourself every time you oil that sheave in the future.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:31 am

JPG40504 wrote:Sadly it includes dropping the motor pan!:(

Raise to vertical, install the worktable from the bottom of the carriage.

By positioning the table close to the headstock, it provides a shelf for the motor/pan to 'sit' while ya oil the control sheave.

Is the process of dropping the motor pan on a Greenie different than for a later model.

On my 510, I run up to high speed, remove the belt cover, remove the drive belt, remove the screws that hold the motor pan on the headstock and rest the motor pan/motor on the bench tubes, disconnect the power wires from the switch and go vertical.

Actually, I have modified my ac wiring to facilitate this process without disconnecting from the switch. I have an inline connection that I can unplug.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 10:38 am

The motor 'dropping' is a necessary obstacle to lubricating a greenie with no access hole.

Access to the sheave is much easier in vertical position(both you and the SS)than crawling around on yer back.

Oh I heartily agree with the added disconnect!

fgrule · Post by **fgrule** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:05 am

dusty wrote:Is the process of dropping the motor pan on a Greenie different than for a later model.

On my 510, I run up to high speed, remove the belt cover, remove the drive belt, remove the screws that hold the motor pan on the headstock and rest the motor pan/motor on the bench tubes, disconnect the power wires from the switch and go vertical.

Actually, I have modified my ac wiring to facilitate this process without disconnecting from the switch. I have an inline connection that I can unplug.

Dusty,

Good idea. What kind of in-line plug did you use?

Thanks,
Fred

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:40 am

fgrule wrote:Dusty,

Good idea. What kind of in-line plug did you use?

Thanks,
Fred

I don't know what to call them so I'll just post a picture. Anything that will handle the appropriate wire gauge should work. I made the wires on mine long enough that I can rest the motor pan on the way tubes and still have the motor connected to the switch with the Mark V in drill press position.

If you do this, you must be very careful when stowing the extra wire for normal operation. You really don't want that wire to get wound around a powered shaft or a sheave.

[ATTACH]18961[/ATTACH]

These are just two pairs of spade lugs for 14 ga wire.

The blue and the black wire go to the motor. The other two wires go to the switch. These are all hot wires. There are no neutrals shown in this photo. The neutral (white) wire (not shown here) from the motor is tied directly to the neutral (white) wire (also not shown here) in the power cord. I am stating this because it would be logical for any reader to ASSUME that the white wire in the photo was an ac neutral wire.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 11:47 am

Why does the motor pan need to be dropped for lubrication?? Are we taking about the 10 hour lubrication?

Greenie owner here, just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:33 pm

Make sure to use enough oil for the control sheave (8-12 drops) and motor floating sheave (6-10 drops). If no control sheave oil hole, I put the oil between the top of the sheaves to slide down to the idler shaft. I always lubricate with the speed control set at FAST. I put extra oil on the exposed motor shaft and key. Turn the headstock ON and cycle the the speed from FAST to SLOW and back a few times to spread the oil after lubricating.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Nov 03, 2012 12:54 am

terrydowning wrote:Why does the motor pan need to be dropped for lubrication?? Are we taking about the 10 hour lubrication?

Greenie owner here, just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

The "A" headstock does not have an access hole behind the backside 'medallion', so access is obtained by dropping the motor. The earlier greenies did not have an oil hole in the control sheave hub either.