Today, Shop smith put out another sale on Bandsaw parts. Of course blades are included.
Also, today I had an opportunity to use my SS 5/8" resaw blade. It worked very good. I tried to take some photos of the smooth straight faces that resulted. Resawed was a poplar 5/4 board 3 3/4" wide. I thought of the pics after seeing some others on this forum. The speed used was 1000 RPM. I used my shop made single point fence. The only tel tale signs of resewing were the slight burn marks where I stopped moving the boards in order to change hand hold.
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Bandsaw Blades
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Bandsaw Blades
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
mrhart wrote:...Can you give a few shots of the single point point fence. ...
Happy to! First here is a thread from early this year. There's 2 pix in there plus a narrower point from old
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3050&highlight=single+point+fence
Before adding 2 more more pix, you should know I tried to copy the wide slope of the Kreig single point add-on to their straight fence. After doing some more reading on single point fences, I think I will try a narrower point.
The only trick in making one is to make sure the point will be perpendicular to the table. Then I had to saw a notch to hold a clamp that will close firmly on the aluminum fence.
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
With the steel table, the miter gauge becomes the fence.mrhart wrote:Nicely done sir, you are in"tune" with your bandsaw.
Can you give a few shots of the single point point fence. I only have the older steel table and I need to come up with something here.
It might make more sense to make the 'jig' clamp to the table itself.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:With the steel table, the miter gauge becomes the fence.
It might make more sense to make the 'jig' clamp to the table itself.
I will see what I can throw together this weekend. Would 1/2" wide for the single point be too thin?
I have some 3/4" african mahogany that I want closer to 1/2" and hate to waste it on the planer
R Hart
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35598
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I think the nose radius is the critical thing, not the thickness. However the thicker it is, the more rigid it is.mrhart wrote:I will see what I can throw together this weekend. Would 1/2" wide for the single point be too thin?
I have some 3/4" african mahogany that I want closer to 1/2" and hate to waste it on the planer
I think a chunk of 2x? would be be preferable.
It HAS to be square/parallel to the table/blade.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Here is a nice easy one.
JPG40504 wrote:I think the nose radius is the critical thing, not the thickness. However the thicker it is, the more rigid it is.
I think a chunk of 2x? would be be preferable.
It HAS to be square/parallel to the table/blade.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton