Restoring my 55' Greenie

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 11:34 am

For long term reliability the quadrant needs to be replaced.

However the arm which is now bent that caused the bias in the wear should be 'straightened'. The roll pin should be replaced with a screw ala Bill Mayo.

That 'fix' should be done regardless.

The existing one is 'usable' after the 'fix' is done and may provide years of service.

I would get a 'spare' to have on hand.

The clip is reusable, but it may need a bit of forming(it is 'out of shape'). I do not know if ss will provide one sans control sheave.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 12:16 pm

cllib wrote:The Quadrant doesn't look good. Should I fix or replace it?

Also the "ring" came loose.

Can I re-use the ring? or I have to buy a new one?

JPG says you can use it after you fix it but I would replace it and then do what can be done to recover the damaged one which I would promptly put away as an "emergency only" spare. A spare which you will probably never need unless you abuse the quadrant like someone else done before.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 3:26 pm

The 'kicker' is that once the mis-positioned worm gear is put back to where it belongs, the contact line of the two gears is different from the wear surfaces location(along the center of the quadrant gear).

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 3:43 pm

There be a lesson here! Notice the wear is all on the side of the quadrant gear teeth that is pressed against by the worm gear when adjusting from a higher to a lower speed.

This can be prevented by doing so slowly so as to allow the floating sheave time to respond to the control sheave squeezing the belt. Yes squeezing the control sheave into the belt is what slowing down does. The floating sheave restores equilibrium by opening up and allowing the belt to ride up on the idler pulley.

cllib · Post by **cllib** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 5:40 pm

One tooth is chipped. It should be good. Thanks for your information.

cllib · Post by **cllib** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 8:07 pm

I watched Nick's video. The idler shaft came out from the sheave very easily.
I have the "A" stock headstock. In the video it's a B.

Do I have to loosen the allen screw under the ecentric bushing?

Thanks.

cllib · Post by **cllib** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 8:27 pm

I kind of mislead by Nick's Video. I searched the forum and found
http://shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.ht ... ostcount=4

I will try to remove the copper clip later. :-)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 23, 2012 10:41 pm

cllib wrote:I kind of mislead by Nick's Video. I searched the forum and found
http://shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=116447&postcount=4

I will try to remove the copper clip later. :-)

Considering all else you have 'discovered', I would expect the idler sheave to be reluctant to move on the shaft.

I would loosen the set screw that holds the bearing in the eccentric.

I would remove the idler shaft etc. from the headstock so as to improve access to it.

cllib · Post by **cllib** » Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:27 am

The belt has " ??Royal 9167" on it. Is it from ShopSmith?

How do I decide it can be used?

cllib · Post by **cllib** » Mon Dec 24, 2012 7:02 pm

When I disassemble the drive sleeve assembly and quilt/spindle.
I didn't see any nylon/plastic part.

Is the old greenie didn't have the part?

Compared to this one.

Shopsmith Forums

Restoring my 55' Greenie

Teeth of the speed control dial

The idler sheave wouldn't separate from the shaft

I didn't remove the copper clip

Is the Gilmer Belt from SS?

Am I missing the part # 57 Drive and Ring assembly