Mark VII Motor Reassembly

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Continuing with the 'vacuum'.

After cleaning the threads, the castle nut is screwed on and a cotter pin inserted through a 'slot' in the nut and a hole in the shaft. The long end of the cotter pin is bent over to hold it in place. The original cotter pin shown will be replaced with a new one.

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Weather stripping is used to prevent air leakage between adjoining parts. This is a deflector plate that directs the air flow to the output port. I used weather stripping that I already had. It is too stiff and will be replaced with a softer foam type. When it all is tightened down, the plastic parts became deformed under the screws etc.

I do not know why the crooked flow path unless the blower needs slight back pressure!

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More weather stripping on the output port housing. My hand shows through the output port. The 'plug' is to the right.

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Housing attached and tighten down with three sheet metal screws into the motor pan. Notice the deflector mounted under the housing. Also the gold 'plug' is removable(friction fit). Not sure if removal was intended, but added paint helps 'secure' it!

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A fourth screw uses a tinnerman nut.

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And finally the impeller housing.

Not shown, but the large screws used to position the plate are removed and used to secure the top of the impeller housing.


Three clips secure the housing to the lower portion of the base plate.

Since taking these pix, I realized there are two differently shaped clips. The ones with a straight back are used for the three locations around the housing.

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More clips are used to secure the housing to the deflector plate/output port housing. These clips are slightly bent on the back. Again the pix are showing the wrong clips.

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A leak indicates a need for sealing between the base plate and the impeller housing.

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Front right view.

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Rear left view.

Not detailed is the power cord. I used #16-3, but kept the length short(about 3'). I will use a larger wire size extension cord with it.

I chose that size so the original Heyco clamp(black plastic thingy) could be used as a feed through strain relief(same as oem cord). The inside end of the power cord wires were terminated with two 1/4" female faston terminals that connected to the power/direction switch and a ring terminal on the ground wire attached to the motor with an external tooth lock washer between the terminal and the motor shell.

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Now to move on to a new thread - Headstock reassembly - much more interesting!;)

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A couple more 'details'.

The power switch buttons had the original lettering worn almost completely off. I had them laser 'engraved' at #Woodcraft and filled in with black paint.

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I gave up the 'search' for the original jumper and made a new one. I will likely insulate(tape) the exposed terminal (yellow wire from motor).

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Well 'it' reappeared. Both ends are female terminals, but the one on the left also has an extension that provides a male terminal for the motor wire to connect to.

So, It is back to the 'original' jumper.

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Well as a result of it being both idle and 'unattached' to the headstock, it became an insulation blower. Unfortunately it sucked up a nail and made some very disturbing noises.

The result was a couple of 'fractures' to the fan housing.

This one looks scary, but was easily 'fixed'.
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This one was the area which was previously damaged(so no surprise).
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I recalled the problem I had with the paint disolving the plastic, so I tried the purple pvc 'cleaner/primer'

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I may hit it with more paint.
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On to Problem 2.


Built it up with jb weld. Several 'coats' due to running. Not sure that is a good thing.

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Did not duplicate the 'notch' for the retaining clip(it got lost anyway).
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Well I changed my mind!

I decided to steal a clip from the other side and make that repaired side 'clippable'.

Crudely ground out the jb weld with a small cutoff wheel., and filed a groove for the clip. Not pretty, but functional.
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I also decided to seal it differently. The weather stripping was just too thick. This patch did not need the extra stress.
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Masking tape with the fold always facing inward(towards the dust side).
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Goofed here! Notice the dark triangle. The shroud goes there, not where I placed the tape. Discovered the goof after reassembly. Forced JPW into the crack and crossed my fingers.
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And the other ear.
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Plate in position for exhaust port housing.
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The repaired clip mount at work.
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And finally from whence the clip was stolen. There is a screw very close by that diminishes the need for a clip here.
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I do hope to not revisit this 'again'!;)


FWIW, the missing clip 'reappeared' so it is now where it belongs(no pix).

[danr]

...
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I also decided to seal it differently. The weather stripping was just too thick. This patch did not need the extra stress.
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Just in case, 3M makes a weather seal that forms a "V". It is plastic and wears like iron. Smaller, compact, about 3/8" wide, 1/16" thick
I have it on a couple of doors and it never breaks.
Dan

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Just in case, 3M makes a weather seal that forms a "V". It is plastic and wears like iron. Smaller, compact, about 3/8" wide, 1/16" thick
I have it on a couple of doors and it never breaks.
Dan

Now you know from whence my 'inspiration' came!;)

[danr]

[quote="JPG40504"]Now you know from whence my 'inspiration' came!]
Hence, your solution is much less $$;)
Dan