$3 Self-Zeroing 36" Direct Reading Rip Scale

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:29 pm

it doesn't self zero you must do it.
It could be said it is easily zero'ed for thin kerf blades, full kerf blades, dado blades and even quill extension.

Truth in Advertising or you will have to answer to the Ad council.

algale · Post by **algale** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:44 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:it doesn't self zero you must do it.
It could be said it is easily zero'ed for thin kerf blades, full kerf blades, dado blades and even quill extension.

Truth in Advertising or you will have to answer to the Ad council.

Ah, but it does self-zero Ed.... when you use it on a tilted table.....

;)

trainguytom · Post by **trainguytom** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:11 pm

Great idea. I don't know how I missed the obvious. I've got 12" & 15" super thin stainless steel cork backed rulers. I think they were either for drafting or general drawing. I tried them & they work just great as well. Thanks for the tip!

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:28 pm

[quote="algale"]Ah, but it does self-zero Ed.... when you use it on a tilted table.....

]

Make sure you add the need to use them on tilted tables in you patent app.

algale · Post by **algale** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:31 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:Make sure you add the need to use them on tilted tables in you patent app.

Actually, the patent application will include a tilted stand to mount the entire Shopsmith on so that the ruler always self-adjusts!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 2:48 pm

This is a neat observation, Alan. There is just one potential pit fall. Make sure you are measuring from the tooth and not from the body or you'll be forever trying to figure out a 1/16" error that keeps creeping in.

The quill is another potential "gottcha". If you are inclined to use the quill for blade location and it changes (get changed) in mid stream - it's an Ahs***.

I am inclined to do all table top work except sanding with the quill fully retracted.

If your main table is properly aligned, the left side of a saw blade is right on the centerline of the table cutout if the quill is fully retracted.

berry · Post by **berry** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:51 pm

Good idea, I used this tip the other day and it worked great. Much easier than trying to use my tape measure. Many thanks for sharing!!!

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 3:52 pm

dusty wrote:If your main table is properly aligned, the left side of a saw blade is right on the centerline of the table cutout if the quill is fully retracted.

That was probably true if you DID NOT drill out closest to the headstock trunion hole on the outfeed side of the main table as suggestted by some one who will remain unnamed

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 4:58 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:That was probably true if you DID NOT drill out closest to the headstock trunion hole on the outfeed side of the main table as suggestted by some one who will remain unnamed

I don't understand what you are saying.

I drilled out the trunnion holes on two of my three Main Table Assemblies. The two that are drilled are on the Go To Mark V and the Shorty. Both get used as table saws and both are aligned so that the left side of the blade is on the proverbial centerline.

Drilling the trunnion holes made is easier to move the Main Table on the trunnion bolts but it did not alter where "proper alignment" occurs.

Maybe I am missing your point!

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Feb 13, 2013 5:09 pm

Dusty
I was just tormenting you.

I think before my trunion was drilled my table automatically aligned to the table so the blade was in the center of the slot. After I drilled it I adjusted my table perfectly parallel but never thought of adjusting to center line of blade slot so mine is off.

I need to readjust my table again but right now it is so perfectly parallel I'm letting it go.

No problem I was just teasing