New Workbench

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 8:23 pm

terrydowning wrote:I'm planning on a new work bench (mostly for hand work) Height will probably be taller than 34" closer to 36" or 37". Not sure if I'll add the paper or not.

I had told myself that I was going to build a new bench for the new shop but I am attached enough to the old one that I am just going to modify and refurbish it some. I do want to definitely add a quick action vise to it.

I used to use old newspapers a lot but we no longer take a paper (read local stuff in the on-line version) and now we don't have enough old papers around to even build a fire with.

Bakeries used to buy waxed paper in rolls that size but I wonder if there might enough wax that it might rub off on an unfinished project and interfere with finishing?
Stores buy big rolls of gift wrap. That would make for a cheerful shop.

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baysidebob · Post by **baysidebob** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 8:24 pm

Great looking work bench, think you have made several of us on these forums a bit jealous. Well I know of one anyway.
Recently there was an article in ShopNotes on an inexpensive Heavy-Duty Workbench. The top is made from a manufactured product named Timberstrand LSL. Product made by Weyerhaeuser. Went to my local lumber yard that can get this product and talked with them Lumber yard man talked me into ordering 1 board 14" x 16'. His suggestion, cut it in half and glue them together to get the recommend with for a nice top. After receiving it I am not sure that was the best way to go. It will be 2"x28"x8'. Not a bad size but thinking it would be better if another 3/4" thick. Think I will glue a piece of plywood or something to build it up a little thicker. Any suggestions as just which way I should go?
The man made material cost $130.00 to purchase, so didn't feel that was out of line.
Think I now have most material to get strted on this, so hopefully soon. Thanks for any help thrown my way.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:19 am

I have never had a Traditional "woodworkers" bench. I have always "made do" with other things.

As I start using more hand tools, I see the value in a solid, heavy, slightly taller work bench with the vises and all.

I'm planing do my own rendition of Shipwright's V8 degree powered vises and crossing it with a traditional English work bench that I have seen on the Paul Seller's site. Paul Sellers uses a 38" tall bench and he is not a tall person.

I really like the idea of using wedges for the vises. I have or can get wood relatively inexpensively and after pricing woodworking vises, it's the way for me to go. It is a wood working bench after all.

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 5:42 pm

Lookin good!

keakap · Post by **keakap** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 6:01 pm

bffulgham wrote:I...ll. It is great for drawing full sized plans and for minimal protection. (used it to mask around the edges of a room while repainting the walls). Kee...)

May I add another option? Not paper but light card rectangles, approx 4' x 4'. for drawing those full size plans and then using same for on-site template. Or making simple "dust" and/or in my case "rust" covers for band saw table, jointer bed, whatever;

difference is they are stiff enough to lean up against the wall, yet just barely.
one side standard look cardboard (like the inside of a cereal box) and one side smooth white, slightly less absorbent but eminently draw details on and see.
And the price is right, too.
COSTCO is my source. Go to the paper towel area, they are the pallet-layer dividers. When I axed if I could take a couple the reply was PLEEEZE. Saves them the work of picking up the exposed ones.

And thanks to this thread I may go find myself a roll of paper for my bench...

ljhhontx · Post by **ljhhontx** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 9:13 pm

Farmer,
I have found a good supply of newpaper paper with my local printer who prints several newspapers in the area. He always has paper left over on the ends, usually at least 6" to 8" diameter rolls which he won't reuse due to having to respool in the middle of a job is a lot of trouble. Might check local newpapers and see if they print or have a regional printer like him who might give you some.

Cavediver · Post by **Cavediver** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:48 pm

Nice bench!
I like the replacable top and the inclusion of the paper roll and power strip.

Do you have any concerns about humidity swelling the MDF top?

One thing I've found to be very useful with my latest bench: the legs are flush to the apron. This gives me the apron overhang (in most areas) for clamping, but also allows me to clamp panels or boards to the side of the bench so that I can get to the narrow side of the workpiece. Dog holes down the legs give me a way to postion or support the workpiece until I can get it clamped. Also, the inboard face of my vice is built in to the apron, leaving the entire side flush.

I bought a bench building book by Christopher Schwarz. It was more about theory and individual features than anything else, although he did present two of his favorite designs. Since I wanted to start working with hand tools, his compilation of ideas seemed more relevant than most other sources of information. I'm happy with my design choices, but not so much with the materials. However, before I rebuild I'm going to use it for a few more years and see if my needs evolve or dictate some changes to the design.

Again, nice job!

Lodgepole · Post by **Lodgepole** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:25 pm

Cavediver wrote:Nice bench!
I like the replacable top and the inclusion of the paper roll and power strip.

Do you have any concerns about humidity swelling the MDF top?

One thing I've found to be very useful with my latest bench: the legs are flush to the apron. This gives me the apron overhang (in most areas) for clamping, but also allows me to clamp panels or boards to the side of the bench so that I can get to the narrow side of the workpiece. Dog holes down the legs give me a way to postion or support the workpiece until I can get it clamped. Also, the inboard face of my vice is built in to the apron, leaving the entire side flush.

I bought a bench building book by Christopher Schwarz. It was more about theory and individual features than anything else, although he did present two of his favorite designs. Since I wanted to start working with hand tools, his compilation of ideas seemed more relevant than most other sources of information. I'm happy with my design choices, but not so much with the materials. However, before I rebuild I'm going to use it for a few more years and see if my needs evolve or dictate some changes to the design.

Again, nice job!

The top is out of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. So, I am hoping I won't have any issues with humidity. One problem I have been having is the Masonite top tends to pull away from the plywood when I do have humidity in the shop. I have been using cloth, double faced tape. But, I may have to replace with lathe turner's tape to see if that solves the issue.

I appreciate your suggestions regarding the dog holes in the legs.

I had read about installing the vise in the apron in one of my woodworking magazines. The reason I didn't is because this is a fairly cheap vise, so I don't know how long it will last.

This is only the second bench I have built. So, just as you suggested, I will probably work with this one for a few years to see what I can improve.

I will say that I am happy with the "Traditional Workbench Finish" that I used. The finish has held up well and is easy to reapply.

Thanks for your kind words regarding this project!

Cavediver · Post by **Cavediver** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:46 pm

That finish does look nice. I wish I could apply it to mine, but I have a unique bench: the entire thing is built from 4" strips of plywood, sandwiched together, edge grain exposed everywhere

I was allowed to salvage material drops from the scrap bin at work. Since I had no real idea what I wanted in a bench, I figured I'd go through the extra trouble to minimize expense for this one, and worry about making a better one later.

Anyhow, the humidity comment was directed at the masonite top skin. Does the center raise up due to an overall size increase, or do the edges lift due to humidity imbalance?

One way to deal with it may be to cut a second, smaller masonite top for the summer (higher humidity). A slight gap between it and the apron edge might allow for some expansion.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 5:57 pm

I have a bad workbench problem. My main bench has a top of 3 boards of very hard yellow pine that I hand planed after fastening it in place. I am saying 3 yellow pine boards from memory

I have not seen it for a couple of months.

That's OK, I can always use my work table. No, wait... I haven't seen it in about the same length of time.

Thank god for fold up sawhorses...

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