New (to me) Jointer

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reddog5362
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New (to me) Jointer

Post by reddog5362 »

Just recieved the Jointer I bought off of EBay. Looks good to me, I'm excited to get in the shop this weekend and set it up.

My only complaint is that you guys ran the bidding up a little higher than I wanted. :D We need to come up with a lottery system on the nice SPT's so we're not all bidding at once!:rolleyes:

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

reddog5362 wrote:Just recieved the Jointer I bought off of EBay. Looks good to me, I'm excited to get in the shop this weekend and set it up.

My only complaint is that you guys ran the bidding up a little higher than I wanted. :D We need to come up with a lottery system on the nice SPT's so we're not all bidding at once!:rolleyes:

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I have mine so I did not bid. Looks like new! Congratulations.

Are you powering this with a Power Station or with a Mark V? If using a Power Station you might want to minimize depth of cut and reduce feed rate to improve cut quality.

The Power Station is just a bit weak and slow for the jointer. My Opinion!
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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reddog5362
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Post by reddog5362 »

The picture was from the auction. I'll be running it on my Mk 5. This is the first jointer of any type I've ever owned. I bought the instructions from SS and have read those, but I'm sure it's going to be a learning experience.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Start your evaluation by making sure you have flat, coplanar tables at zero depth of cut.

Then make certain your blades are sharp and that all three blades are precisely the same height.

Maintain downward pressure on the piece as it goes across the outfeed table and you will be making fine shavings.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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reddog5362
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Post by reddog5362 »

Thanks Dusty. I'll probably be on here asking for help after I mess something up :rolleyes:
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

reddog5362 wrote:Thanks Dusty. I'll probably be on here asking for help after I mess something up :rolleyes:
Just your fingers out of the blade so that any mess up can be considered a "learning experience" and not a shop accident. I strongly recommend the use of a push block for any and all flat jointing. For edge jointing I use the push block to keep the work piece flat against the fence. For surface jointing I use it to keep the piece flat against the table.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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donalexander
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Post by donalexander »

dusty wrote:Just your fingers out of the blade so that any mess up can be considered a "learning experience" and not a shop accident. I strongly recommend the use of a push block for any and all flat jointing. For edge jointing I use the push block to keep the work piece flat against the fence. For surface jointing I use it to keep the piece flat against the table.
I agree wholeheartedly with Dusty. Treat the jointer blades like a rattle snake that wants to strike. Never run a board through with your bare hands.
Don

Mark V (bought new, now sold), Model 520 (1989 510 upgraded)
Bandsaw, Jointer, and Planer
1951 Magna Engineering 10ER (restored for lathe use and sold)
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

The voice of experience!

All three blades will bite before you extract your finger.



Lesson learned!!!!!!!!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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fiatben
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I agree, be careful

Post by fiatben »

donalexander wrote:I agree wholeheartedly with Dusty. Treat the jointer blades like a rattle snake that wants to strike. Never run a board through with your bare hands.
Just a note of interest; I've been reading thru "Complete Book of Woodworking" (1975) by Rosario Capotosto. In the tool section about jointers, he describes the "machine is one of the stafest to use."

As long as you aren't trying to joint small boards and the guard is in place (and your brain is engaged), I tend to agree. My table saw scares me a lot more. That big 6" belt grinder at the end of my 510 has chewed up fingertips repeatedly (my fault, but still). When the lathe started jumping up and down, I worry. So far I've managed to NOT drill a hole thru an appendage or forget to keep my fingers out of the bandsaw. Actually, my little box planer is probably the safest power tool as long as I stay out of the line of fire.

But, as many on here often and correctly point out, use your brain and if it don't feel safe, DON'T DO IT.

Back on subject; congrats on the jointer. It looks really good in the pics, not an orange chunk of rust like mine was. I don't use mine as much as I could, but usually I'm cleaning up rough lumber at about 9 feet long. :eek:
'55 Greenie #292284 (Mar-55), '89 SS 510 #020989, Mark VII #408551 (sold 10/14/12), SS Band Saw, (SS 500 #36063 (May-79) now gone to son-in-law as of 11-11), Magna bandsaw, Magna jointer 16185 (May-54), Magna belt sander SS28712 (Dec-82), Magna jigsaw SS4397 (Dec-78), SS biscuit joiner, Zyliss (knockoff) vise, 20+ hand planes, 60s Craftsman tablesaw, CarbaTec mini-lathe, and the usual pile of tools. Hermit of the Hills Woodworks, a hillbilly in the foothills of the Ozarks, scraping by.
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

One addition to Fiatben's response "If it don't feel safe, it ain't safe" If the thought goes through your mind "can I really do this safely?" the answer is most likely "NO". Think of another way or get some advice or help or both.
Bill V
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