Outfeed Table

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claimdude
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Post by claimdude »

wasatch wrote:After reading all of your information on outfeed tables, I decided to build an outfeed table for myself. I installed a Formica top (color: Steel Mesh) and a 1" strip of plastic T-moulding around the perimeter. Its made of two 1/2" thick laminations, the top MDF, the bottom plywood. I used a Incra track (Shopsmith track was way too expensive compaired). I'll make a wood fence extension jig to replace the SS miter when cutting bevel cuts. I still have to cut the miter slots and a slot for the extended riving knife. I also made the wedge device to support the OFT with the SS table tube.I still have a little painting and cleaning to complete it, but I'm close. I just have to figure out how to make the lower SS support rod to table connection better so it will swivel when the table is adjusted to 45 degrees.:)
Wasatch,

Do you have pictures of the joint/fixture you used at the OFT connecting rod end that needed to be able to swivel?

Thanks
Jack
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

I wonder if the real problem isn't the fact that the outfeed table pivot point is not at the same height as the table pivot point? I know there was a lot of talk about moving the piviot point right or left to make sure it was in line with the table trunnion pivot point.

I wonder if someone added spacer between the pivot point and outfeed table so the two were in line both horizonally and vertically if that would not solve the problem. I think as long as the pivot is higher than the actual table pivot any time you move the table you are in effect raising or lowering that pivot point in relation to the table.

Think of this way you have the table flat and pivot is say X inches from the floor now you tilt the table because that pivot is at a different height it will change in relation to the floor however the actual table pivot height never changes.

Can someone try this set up the Outfeed table and measure from floor to pivot height now tilt the table and measure again. I'm guessing the pivot gets closer to the floor thus raising the outfeed table height.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

"Common axis".

IF the axis of rotation is common, there is no (left, right, up, down) offset.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I don't know what words will properly describe it other than to say it now works.

My outfeed table no longer sags when it is tilted nor does it lift up.

The OFT remains coplanar with the main table through out the entire range of main table tilt.
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

dusty wrote:I don't know what words will properly describe it other than to say it now works.

My outfeed table no longer sags when it is tilted nor does it lift up.

The OFT remains coplanar with the main table through out the entire range of main table tilt.
What did you do?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Ed in Tampa wrote:What did you do?
He made the oft pivot have a common axis of rotation with the main table.;)

i.e. The main table has two pivots on the trunions. By locating the oft pivot on a line(the common axis) extending through the center of both pivots.

The other Ed was the one who first identified that 'detail'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
claimdude
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Post by claimdude »

Dusty,

I picked up some 2 in aluminum angle for the brackets on my OFT I am building and realized when I got it home it is a 1/16" thick and it looks like yours are 1/8 " thick. I went back and checked the store and they don't have the thicker angle. Do you think the 1/16" will work OK or do I need to look around for thick thicker material. HD doesn't even have the 1/16" x 2 " in stock. We have a Lowes I haven't tried yet.

Also, I picked up a double sealed spherical bearing to use on the OFT end of the support and am thinking that if I mount the bearing on a block that is mounted to the bottom of the OFT (in line with tilt axis both directions) that the face of the block on the SS side should be a 45 degree cut. Make sense? Do think this will work?

Thanks
Jack
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

claimdude wrote:Dusty,

I picked up some 2 in aluminum angle for the brackets on my OFT I am building and realized when I got it home it is a 1/16" thick and it looks like yours are 1/8 " thick. I went back and checked the store and they don't have the thicker angle. Do you think the 1/16" will work OK or do I need to look around for thick thicker material. HD doesn't even have the 1/16" x 2 " in stock. We have a Lowes I haven't tried yet.

Also, I picked up a double sealed spherical bearing to use on the OFT end of the support and am thinking that if I mount the bearing on a block that is mounted to the bottom of the OFT (in line with tilt axis both directions) that the face of the block on the SS side should be a 45 degree cut. Make sense? Do think this will work?

Thanks
Jack

I do not believe that the 1/16" thick angle will support the weight.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_55973-37672-113 ... Id=3058177

As for the location of the "swivel point" on the bottom of the table: that is dictated by the size of your OFT and the length of the support bar. The angle is not critical.

I had a support bar and the OFT both done when I determined where to locate the block. I put it where it needed to be to make the table horizontal.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

This is likely more 'palatable'.:D

http://www.lowes.com/pd_31211-37672-11329_0__?productId=3056841&Ntt=aluminum+angle&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Daluminum%2Bangle&facetInfo=

A flat piece can be added to the vertical side to make it wider. It could also be thicker.

That combination has got to be less $$$.;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

[quote="JPG40504"]This is likely more 'palatable'.:D

http://www.lowes.com/pd_31211-37672-11329_0__?productId=3056841&Ntt=aluminum+angle&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Daluminum%2Bangle&facetInfo=

A flat piece can be added to the vertical side to make it wider. It could also be thicker.

That combination has got to be less $$$.]
Less expensive, yes. Best for the task at hand - I don't think so. But then I am terribly biased.

The real purpose for my link to Lowes was to show that they do stock it. There are two places in both of the Lowes where I shop that have metal. One is in an area close to where they have the screen doors and the other is else where. I'll pay better attention the next time I am there so that I can report what section. I find the 1/8" aluminum in the same section that stocks threaded rod, flat metal and tubular stock.
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