Turning green into gold(copper) M5 blade guard

[JPG]

While reassembling, I added a few parts

I dislike steel screw heads rubbing against soft parts(and paint). Especially when those screw heads are moved often.

Sooooo

[ATTACH]17633[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17634[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17635[/ATTACH]
Notice the flat washer added to the shaped washer and the screw in the upper left corner has no washer(it is tightened and left alone).

[ATTACH]17636[/ATTACH]

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And finally it has all come together.
[ATTACH]17637[/ATTACH]
I did not show it earlier, but notice the upper guard is 'attached' to the splitter with a tension pin that also acts as a sliding pin in the slot.

And is 'ready for action'.
[ATTACH]17638[/ATTACH]
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Now how does the DC hose attach to this?
[ATTACH]17639[/ATTACH]
Stay tuned!;)

[judaspre1982]

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[JPG]

[quote="judaspre1982[B"]]I'm gonna have to steal your idea of using a drill chuck as a handle---Post #10 --2nd pic.[/b] Very clever]

The chuck will allow you to clean and chase, but drilling or cutting threads requires more torque than you can generate with the chuck.


Now for the DC hose adapter.

I cannot believe I spent almost 2 days on these little parts. Their being small made it time consuming as they needed to be accurate as well.
I used my mini routing jog on the M5 for the very small routing cuts.

[ATTACH]17716[/ATTACH]
The u shaped piece has a groove that sets on a ridge on the side of the 'exhaust port'. The rounded end fits over the ridge at the top edge of the exhaust port and is tapered to match the lower guard shape behind the ridge. The bottom end sets on the outer face of the bottom edge.

[ATTACH]17717[/ATTACH]
The larger 'face' piece fastens to the u shaped piece with two 10-32 cap screws that happen to have a 5/32 socket hex head. A nylon washer between the screw head and the bottom of a counter bore hole prevents crushing of the wood. The screws are threaded into t-nuts on the back side of the u shaped piece. The t-nuts are located in a double counterbored hole(a shallow one for the flange and a smaller/deeper one for the t-nut 'shank'). Two of the t-nut spurs are in pre-drilled holes. The t-nuts were ground to the width of the u shaped side.

[ATTACH]17718[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17719[/ATTACH]
The u shaped piece just slips between the way tube 'leg' and the side ridge. The u shaped piece then slides over the side ridge and this leaves a 1/16" gap between the side and the leg. The top end slips over the top ridge and then is positioned down and the bottom of the u shaped piece rests on the face of the bottom of the port.

[ATTACH]17720[/ATTACH]
The larger face piece has a 2"+ hole that provides a tight fit for the DC hose. It also extends 1/16" beyond the side next to the leg(it butts up to the leg).

It is much sturdier than is apparent from the pix.

FWIW an earlier attempt was abandoned due to insufficient 'planning'!

Tonight it has been 'sealed' with shellac - tomorrow it gets hammered copper.

[judaspre1982]

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[JPG]

There usually is a trial and error period when making custom parts like you have. I would say you hit this challenge out of the park.

I knew you would come up with something interesting.
Great idea!

Enjoy, Dave

Still an unresolved 'issue'. That 'hose adapter' interferes with the table post.