Switch failed

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:31 pm

Just starting out a last minute project for my dad and the switch failed. I have previously rewired a few tools purchased at auctions with electrical problems, but this looks like trouble due to limited access. I was considering a floor switch to begin with and I am seriously considering eliminating the toggle switch and simply running a floor switch. Possibly another switch of some sort on the wire right before it enters the headstock for safety. Not sure what switch would go on the wire before the headstock though. I remember when Radio Shack did more than sell cell phones.

Thoughts?

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:12 pm

Easy if a toggle switch. Just remove the LOGO cover, remove the switch nut and the wires are long enough to put the switch out thru the logo cover hole. Of course, it works a lot better if your hand fits inside the LOGO cover hole. Just be sure to unplug the power cord.

I recommend buying a motor rated 20 amp switch (DPST). I buy the 7300001 ($6.02 + shipping) at http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!duty ... 789068.t_1 from Del City for the ON/OFF switch. The motor rated switch has larger contact points and I have not had one failure.

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Fri Jun 14, 2013 11:40 pm

BillMayo,
Thanks for advice. I read a similar post on another thread. Just like the poster in that thread, I am going to try and avoid waiting on shipping. I have to drive across Dayton tomorrow anyways, so I will zig zag across the city in hopes of finding a suitable switch.

Does that switch fit the Shopsmith without an additional bracket or augmenting the casting? I may buy the foot switch and bypass the toggle for this project and then install the toggle when it comes in.

I broke the toggle on my Craftsman table saw a few years back also. I think I am a little hard on them. When I want it to stop I want it to stop. Of course I replaced it with this switch from radio shack and from your other posts I suspect it wasn't such a great idea.

It does make me feel like I am launching a missile every time I make a cut though.

I will add my switch was very touchy to begin with. Would turn off if the machine was bumped or sometimes even from vibration. Had to get it in the right spot for the machine to turn on, flipped as high up as possible would not work. THe last time I turned it off the switch came loos and it now feels as though the toggle is no longer attached to anything. My guess is the plastic melted, but I have not opened her up yet. I did look at the SS loabel on the far side of the head and there was no obvious way to take it off.

joshh · Post by **joshh** » Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:43 am

I picked up a replacement switch @ Ace hardware for $8.50 that is rated for 20 amps and 1.5 horsepower. Came in a red package.

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Sun Jun 16, 2013 2:26 am

Was able to pick up a 20a 120v 1.5 HP switch at lowes. Will tackle the rest of the project tomorrow. Strawberries and cherries had to be picked and apples, blue berries, and rasberries planted today(among a few other things).

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Sun Jun 16, 2013 2:51 pm

SS SN 24837. I think that puts the production date just shy of 1980. How do I get to the switch Internally. Normally there is a set screw and a pivot pin, but here I have a pin in the center only. Is this an obsolete factory set-up, or is this a "customization." I can guess at how to take the head stock apart if I have to. I think I will take the head off if testing guesswork and that will add to the process. Afraid if I start randomly disassembling the headstock things will unexpectedly come apart a lot more than I want. I would really prefer not to spend the next two days learning the machine inside and out. Probably upgrade to an MKC 2 bearing quill shortly and will learn more about it then.

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Sun Jun 16, 2013 3:24 pm

Answer for progeny @ 3:32: pry it off .
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Switch.htm

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Sun Jun 16, 2013 10:44 pm

I have an aluminum and a copper wire. That might contribute to the switch failure. Have to wait until tomorrow to finish as I will need some electrical grease.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:02 am

johnwilliamson062 wrote:I have an aluminum and a copper wire. That might contribute to the switch failure. Have to wait until tomorrow to finish as I will need some electrical grease.

I doubt that there is an aluminum wire in the headstock.

The wires should have .250 faston(slip on) terminals that slide onto square terminals on the switch.

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:24 am

I did not have a proper jumper for the tabs, so I stripped the wires to use a wire nut on the neutral wires. I was surprised, but one of the wires is silver colored.