Bird mouth joint

farley · Post by **farley** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:48 pm

Is it just me? I couldn't tilt my SS table to cut this cut.

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/EDBirdM.html

Tia

Jack Wilson · Post by **Jack Wilson** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:58 pm

Looks like to me you would have to use the mitre gauge on the high side of the tilted SS table/

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:59 pm

farley wrote:Is it just me? I couldn't tilt my SS table to cut this cut.

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/EDBirdM.html

Tia

My guess is that you simply have a setup problem because you should be able to make this cut.

Can you be more specific about what prevents you from doing this.

WARNING: Do not stand in line with the blade when you make these cuts.

benush26 · Post by **benush26** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:10 pm

Is it a possibility to set up the router, tilt the table to the appropriate angle and rout the bird's mouth? I've not done it nor tried that setup, but just brain storming ideas.

algale · Post by **algale** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:14 pm

The link shows a right tilt saw with the blade tilted 45 degree right with the rip fence to the right of the blade.

Since on the Shopsmith the only way to get a 45 degree is to tilt the blade left relative to the table (really the blade stays stationary and you tilt the right side of the table down), you would have to put the rip fence to the left of the blade, which is the up hill side.

Ripping with the fence on the uphill side of the blade isn't something I'd like to try.

EDIT: I take it back. Why not just move the fence much closer to the blade and make the cut in the edge of the board closest to the fence rather than the edge away from the fence.

farley · Post by **farley** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:30 pm

Algale

I think I follow you.

I will have to try that next time, I coped out and made miter cut when I ran into an issue.

I also wouldn't want to work up hill.

greitz · Post by **greitz** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:31 pm

... or just use a birdsmouth router bit.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.a ... 6168,46174

Gary

algale · Post by **algale** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:33 pm

farley wrote:Algale

I think I follow you.

I will have to try that next time, I coped out and made miter cut when I ran into an issue.

I also wouldn't want to work up hill.

With the table tilted to 45 degrees and the fence moved up nearly against the blade, you won't really be working up hill. The fence will hold the piece and just use a push stick if the stock is narrow.

anmius · Post by **anmius** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:39 pm

How about one of these........

[ATTACH]22345[/ATTACH]

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:46 pm

Birdsmouth joints are used in wooden masts all the time, at least used to be when there were more wooden masts. There's another way to do it though. The way shown works because it is an octagon. 360/8 sides= 45 degrees.

This way works for all numbers of sides:

1) Divide 360 by the number of sides, lets say six = 60 degrees.
2) Set your saw to 60 deg and run the board through on edge for the first cut and then flat on the table for the second cut on the same edge. This will give you a 90 deg angled notch in the edge of the board and it will be canted at 60 degrees.
3) Run all six pieces and assemble. A long piece of bungee wrapped around and around works really well as a clamp.

You can taper the pieces first if you want and you aren't limited in board thickness like you are with the expensive router bits. I made some four foot, six inch diameter columns for my living room this way then turned them on the lathe. It is a great joint. ....... but then I think Harbor Freight is a great joint.

Paul M