How do I make a 45deg bevel cut on my MK V safely?

[dusty]

Control the materials involved. It does not matter which tool you are using. Control of the situation is what prevents accidents.

Nick's solution to this problem was nothing more than jig modification that provided for the control of the materials above the blade on the tilted table.

I cut bevels on the Mark V on a regularly recurring basis. The hazards get potentially serious when the stock is large, example: bevel cutting an 8' board with the objective of getting two 4' pieces with a bevel cut. Both pieces need to be controlled but especially the one that is on the upside.

I try to never have a large piece of material on the up side. Cut to length (plus a little) and then nipple your way into the final dimension. By doing this, you can ignore the uphill stock. Just stay out of the line of fire, just in case.

However, if you find yourself cutting a lot of bevels in larger stock you need a cross cut sled with some sort of "control mechanism" for the materials on both sides of the blade.

[ATTACH]22579[/ATTACH]
Concept drawing of my bevel sled

Stop block mounted on the outfeed table limits forward motion so that I do not cut the sled in half.

Sled extends to the rear of the fence to make the whole thing more rigid.

I clamp the work piece to the fence on both sides of the blade to provide the needed "control".

[Gene Howe]

I built the 45° sled referenced above and find that it's easy and safe to use. Mines not adjustable, but it easily could be made so.
As it is, fine tuning is simple with the tilting table.

[JPG]

Control the materials involved. It does not matter which tool you are using. Control of the situation is what prevents accidents.

Nick's solution to this problem was nothing more than jig modification that provided for the control of the materials above the blade on the tilted table.

I cut bevels on the Mark V on a regularly recurring basis. The hazards get potentially serious when the stock is large, example: bevel cutting an 8' board with the objective of getting two 4' pieces with a bevel cut. Both pieces need to be controlled but especially the one that is on the upside.

I try to never have a large piece of material on the up side. Cut to length (plus a little) and then nipple your way into the final dimension. By doing this, you can ignore the uphill stock. Just stay out of the line of fire, just in case.

However, if you find yourself cutting a lot of bevels in larger stock you need a cross cut sled with some sort of "control mechanism" for the materials on both sides of the blade.

[ATTACH]22579[/ATTACH]
Concept drawing of my bevel sled

Stop block mounted on the outfeed table limits forward motion so that I do not cut the sled in half.

Sled extends to the rear of the fence to make the whole thing a rigid.

I clamp the work piece to the fence on both sides of the blade to provide the needed "control".

I agree with ALL of this EXCEPT I prefer to 'nibble' the end.

[anmius]

I cut bevels on the Mark V on a regularly recurring basis. The hazards get potentially serious when the stock is large, example: bevel cutting an 8' board with the objective of getting two 4' pieces with a bevel cut. Both pieces need to be controlled but especially the one that is on the upside.

This is precisely why I use a Sliding Compound Miter Saw which I clamp on to the Shopsmith table and use the "outrigger" Extension Tables for support. I can cut up to a 16' board with very little difficulty. For longer boards (like clapboard siding), I add additional out-feed rollers as support. The Shopsmith makes an excellent Miter Saw Stand (albeit a little more expensive than one from Dewalt).

[dusty]

This is precisely why I use a Sliding Compound Miter Saw which I clamp on to the Shopsmith table and use the "outrigger" Extension Tables for support. I can cut up to a 16' board with very little difficulty. For longer boards (like clapboard siding), I add additional out-feed rollers as support. The Shopsmith makes an excellent Miter Saw Stand (albeit a little more expensive than one from Dewalt).

Maybe what you really need is a Mark V without a headstock or carriage assembly and permanently mount your SCMS.

[anmius]

Maybe what you really need is a Mark V without a headstock or carriage assembly and permanently mount your SCMS.

Good idea but where will I put it? I have used a Shopsmith for over 30 years because I don't have the room for anything else. And I've loved every minute!

[dusty]

Good idea but where will I put it? I have used a Shopsmith for over 30 years because I don't have the room for anything else. And I've loved every minute!

I think you really make my point. We can do bevel cuts, and live, even while using the Mark V.

[anmius]

Especially if we are imaginative and creative!

[dusty]

Especially if we are imaginative and creative!

I prefer to think of it as resourceful and well informed. We all have the tools (thus the capability), so all we have to do is persevere. Sometimes the first attempt is a flop; example: my first out feed table and then the second. I am currently using #4 and thinking about making more changes.

There are some people, reible is probably one of them, that can think these things through and then go do it with great success. Probably many others too but I am not one of them.

[TheBigE]

I have that issue of Wood with the plans for that sled. The lady that submitted the tip was retired from the navy I believe. She made flag boxes and frames for medals. The sled was made for a titling arbor saw as well!

Some other thoughts to help with this type of cut.

Figure 3-10

And the sled in this plan: Sled
I'm thinking of making that myself.