The Kitchen Project

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brown_hawk
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The Kitchen Project

Post by brown_hawk »

Some notes on my kitchen cabinet project. This is long, although I've tried not to ramble TOO much. Since I'm still sick (cold), and I don't work with power tools when I'm sick, I've been making some notes on what I've learned so far, problems, solutions, options, etc. Hopefully this will help some of you avoid some of my mistakes. :D

Having determined that my kitchen cabinets needed to be replaced, and not just replaced but seriously upgraded, with none of the lost space of the present ones, I started by designing a new kitchen using Turbo Cad on my Mac.

I then let my imagination run wild as far as knocking out walls, etc. I decided that the present habit of putting up 30 inch cabinets, and leaving a space to the ceiling wasted too much space, so I would put 12” cabinets above those to take up the space and make it semi useful. The kitchen is small, and any wasted space is a detriment. Also, there would have to be corner cabinet access, so Lazy Susans were in order for the base, and either Susans or some kind of corner access cabinets for the upper.

First shock came when I measured the kitchen. I knew it was small, but I didn’t realize that it was built low. The ceiling was only 91 inches high. That meant that the traditional 30 + 12 cabinets were out, and I was left with about 37 inches to play with.

The final plan settled down to upper cabinets 37” high with a permanent shelf at 11” from the top and adjustable shelves in the lower 26”. There would be a door for the upper with a glass or plexiglas insert, and raised panel doors for the lower shelves.

In the base cabinets, the use of a corner cabinet left a 6” space between the end of the corner cabinet and the start of the sink base. While I looked for and couldn’t find a small stepladder that might fit in this space, to make access to the upper upper cabinets easier, I finally found a narrow pullout shelf that would fit this space. The (sale) price was less that it would take me to buy the hardware, so I purchased it and the susans for the upper and lower cabinets when they went on sale.

As a note here, the lower susans I bought were the 32” diameter susans, bigger than the ones you find commercially, but very reasonable on sale.

So much for the background, now to the woodworking part.

Wood is expensive, good wood is more expensive, and if I couldn’t afford to buy cabinets, how could I afford to buy the wood to build them? The answer I found was a sawmill. The mill produces hardwood for lumberyards, etc., and in cutting the boards to length, the ends are cut off and stored on pallets. These pallets are sold to cheap masochists like myself, who then turn them into firewood and sawdust.

I got my potential firewood home and stacked in the garage ready for planing. I have a Shopsmith Pro Planer, which will take wood 4” thick and 12” wide. The wood I bought was 1” thick rough cut, meaning anywhere from about 7/8ths to 1.5 inches thick.

Lesson: f you are so foolish as to follow in my footsteps, be aware that you are going to have to handle TONS of sawdust. By a rough calculation, the weight of the two pallets was somewhere between 3-4 TONS. So planing it down to 3/4 inch means that a quarter of that weight is made into sawdust. Add jointing the wood to four side it, and you will be carrying out over a TON of sawdust. Having a GOOD dust collector on a planer that allows for dust collection is a must. Having a way to dispose of that amount of dust is also a must. I have a ShopSmith DC3300 which connects to the Pro Planer dust collection connector.
brown_hawk
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Post by brown_hawk »

I have the Shopsmith (SS from now on) Pro Planer because it can make cuts anywhere from 75 to 255 cuts per inch, and at 255 cuts per inch gives a finish that is ready for 220 grit sandpaper. It saves a LOT of sanding time. It will also do a very good job planing crotch or burl wood that would tear out in most planers.

A caveat is that the blades have to be sharp. And I got a Tormek water stone sharpening system so that I could keep the blades sharp. And that started some of the “tools to make the tools to make the project” part of this project. Where to keep the Tormek ready, but out of the way? Norm Abram of the New Yankee Workshop built a sharpening stand, so that was answer one, and I built the stand.

Lesson: The planer blade is long, and will drip water as it runs back and forth. The top of the stand is protected by melamine, but the leather strop on he other side wasn’t. Simple answer: A small piece of wood under the leather strop side of the Tormek tilted it slightly to the right, meaning all the water now dropped off on the right side. To collect that water, a bread pan or cookie pan will collect the water. Now you have a neat top that isn’t leaking water from the length of the Tormek. The Tormek itself is sealed, so it isn’t a problem, and the slight tilt solves even most of that.

Since I knew that I was going to need a router table for the rails and styles, (or cope and sticks for some), I also built the Norm Abram Router workstation at this time. I have a SS OverArm Router table, but I wanted two setups, one for rails and one for styles, which would save time and setup errors - and wasted stock with trial cuts.

So to the planing. As I was doing the planing, I sorted the wood by length. Most of it came in lengths of 20 -23 inches, a couple were over four feet, and there were many that were under a foot in length. (Yes, there is a way to plane those if they are not TOO short, but I left some to be used in other projects or to be taken down by sander.

The sorting to lengths was further refined by sorting according to the type of grain. White oak that is properly quarter sawn has grain that runs vertical to the face in a lot a pieces. Those pieces show flecks that reflect light differently than the normal grain, and were one of the reasons I chose white oak. So the pieces were sorted by the condition of the surface showing these flecks. Those would be used for the visible parts of the cabinets. Non visible would use the other wood, and any pieces (suprisingly few) that had the grain running horizontally, were set aside.

Wood expands most along the grain, so that cabinets built using the vertical grain would get THICKER, but not by much with only 3/4 to start, and would not get much in the way of length difference, even with the base cabinet depth of 24”. As a consequence of this characteristic of wood, the cabinets are to be built with the boards running ACROSS the bottom and top of the cabinets, not running from front to back. This means that the top and bottom will be less likely to expand and contract themselves away from the sides, as I want this project to stay together for a little while at least. Thus, the sides and tops and bottoms will all be expanding and contracting from front to back, not side to side for the top and bottom and front to back for the sides.

This leaves the back, which will either be plywood or half lapped boards screwed individually to the side, the half laps leaving some room for expansion. Like a lot of other things, that is still up in the air, a bridge that I will cross when I come to it.

So that leaves me with my wood four sided, sorted, and ready to be worked on. It has been moved to the basement from the garage for better climate control.

The first step is to glue up boards for the sides of one case at a time. I am starting with the case for the 5 inch pullout mentioned above. I have decided to use feet on the cabinets which will allow the toe kicks to be removed. This will allow water to be run to the icemaker, etc. More on that when I get there. But with no toe kick, the base sides need to be 30”. And the majority of the boards are 20-23”, so there will need to be end to end joining to get the cases to 30” for the base and 37 “ for the uppers. That was always a consideration, and wood can be matched.

So my first decision was that I would join the boards side to side to 24”, then join the 2 glued up parts to make up the height. Essentially, three 20” by 24” would make 2 30” sides. A finger joint bit is what I will use for the end to end glue up.

1st try: I match the boards for color and grain. I have decided to use a glue joint on my router table. This will enable me to quickly get the pieces ready for glue up. Given the first few passes, this looks like a good idea, and I should be able to do a glue up every other day.

Problem: the bit slips, and the boards don’t match up. This is going to make the sides 1/2”, not 3/4.

Lesson: Don’t use a cheap router. EVER!!!!!!!!!

Answer: Since I have been good to Uncle Sam, and lent him my money interest free for a year, I have a choice of a new router and a new plate. But since I know what a pain it is to try to change bits, to say nothing of bit depth, I delve into my old woodworking magazines and get some router lift reviews. Since I can only do a lift OR a router, I am limited to my Makita 1101, of which I have two motors. One is in the overarm router table already, and the other is in the D-Handle router.

So I settle on a Jointech Smartlift digital router lift. The Makita can handle the router panel bits, and is adjustable in speed. The Smartlift will allow above the table bit changes and easy repeatability. The digital part means that I can change bits, then come back to the same setting with the old bits, IF I KEEP TRACK OF THE INFORMATION. Also, I can get a fence that will allow me to use the Incra Jig that has been sitting around not doing much of anything. That gives me repeatability on the fence as well as the bit height.

Down side: I have to build a new top as the plate size is different. Also, as the lift is 32 turns per inch (TPI), raising the bit to change it will be something of a pain. So I just have to plan well. And I do have the repeatability if I mess up.

But for now, until I get the money to finish the new router top, I have to find a way to join the boards. First choice is the SS in the horizontal boring mode. A couple of the boards have a slight warp to them, and the dowels will help with this problem.

Since the boards are varying widths, the fastest and easiest way to dowel is a stop collar. I pick up a set - a new design that will compress around the bit and not use an allen to screw onto the bit itself. Only it takes so much pressure to compress that the Allen screw head strips out. After a few holes, the collar slips, and with the screw head stripped, it can’t be tightened. Oh well, back to the old tape on the drill bit method. And I finish the first set of boards that way. Any more will be done on the SS Biscuit Joiner. At least until I get the router table ready again. As I was finishing up the drilling, I was getting sick, so the boards still aren’t glued up. I learned long ago not to work when I was sick. Too many mess ups.

A note on the marking of the boards. Once they were matched and set in order, I numbered them and marked across the top IN CHALK. As long as the chalk was visible in the drilling process, I was drilling the holes correctly. And the chalk pretty much just wipes off. When I got done with the drilling, I renewed the chalk marks as i was getting sick and didn’t want to take any chances on messing up when I came back to work on it.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

These have been great posts, hawk. I have copied them and put the printout by by reading chair. I'll have to study these. There's a lot of info here.

I think a kitchen rebuild is in my future too.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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brown_hawk
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Post by brown_hawk »

Stay tuned, dusty,

I'll try to post more as I bumble through making these cabinets. This next step of joining end to end two 24" joined boards should be interesting:eek:

But I will post the mistakes and findings as i run through them.

Hawk
Dayton OH and loving it! :D (Except they closed the store.:( )
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

A supporting photo series woud be interesting.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
brown_hawk
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Post by brown_hawk »

Here's some shots using my camera phone. The good camera is broken, so I will try this and see how it works.

It looks like it worked, so these show what I've described so far.
Attachments
Kitchen Stove Cabinets-800x600.jpg
Kitchen Stove Cabinets-800x600.jpg (65.7 KiB) Viewed 8275 times
Planed wood-800x600.jpg
Planed wood-800x600.jpg (82.93 KiB) Viewed 8261 times
Sharpening Station-800x600.jpg
Sharpening Station-800x600.jpg (76.3 KiB) Viewed 8261 times
Router Station-800x600.jpg
Router Station-800x600.jpg (75.78 KiB) Viewed 8263 times
Dayton OH and loving it! :D (Except they closed the store.:( )
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

Brown Hawk

Let me mention a few things. First most router bits slip not because the router is junk but because of a few other reasons.
One junk on the bit. Solution clean the shaft.

Two junk on collet. Soultion clean the collet.

Three bit bottomed out in collet before tightening. If you look most collets must screw down to tighten. If the bit is flat on the bottom and the collet has a hold on the bit it is impossible for the collet to move downward to fully tighten. Solution I always have a rubber o ring at the bottom of my collet then the bit can't sit steel to steel and there is always enough room for the collet to move ever so slightly down. Never have had a loose bit since.
Try it you may find you can use your router and not have to buy an whole new step.

Incidently when I first heard this about the bit bottoming in the collet I said no way. Now that I have payed around with it over and over I'm totally convinced that this causes 99 percent of router problems. It is just natural to throw a bit in let it slide in until it is bottomed and then tighten the collet. The collet stops turning and your sure it is tight. However the bit sitting on the bottom of the collet prevents the collet for turning once it grips the bit shaft. Try it before you say I'm crazier than a bed bug.

Also step up is easier if you remove the router/plate everything from the table. If you ever watch Router workshop this is how they do all their setups. Easy and quickly no need for the cost of a lift.

A possible solution for your drilling. Make a stop block. Get a block that you drill a hole down through it length wise. Then cut off the block so enough of drill sticks out to drill to the depth you need. Now start drilling when the block bottoms out on the wood your hole is deep enough. Cheap dirty and never fails.

Of the two methods I like the glue finger joints the best. I think they provide the best joint for what your doing.

I hope this gets you back working because it sounds like you figured a way to keep yourself way busy.
Ed
brown_hawk
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Post by brown_hawk »

Ed,

I appreciate the advice, but the problem was that I needed a router plate that would take a panel bit, and I cheaped out on the router. (Can you say Harbor Freight?:( ) I was running short of money and should have just saved up. And that router won't slow down enough for a panel bit, and the speed reducer also cut the power and the bit wouldn't cut. And bit changes were a pain with that design anyhow. Also the hole for the collet is 3 inches deep, so no o-ring would contact the bit. So I bought junk and now I'm paying for it.:mad:

So I was going to have to get a router for it anyhow, and the repeatability of the lift was the main selling point. I have two lift handles that I screw into the plate. Just long bolts with wood handles to lift out the plate and router. We'll see after I get the new system in. The lift handles work with both plates.

The drill idea is good, and I might use it. On the other hand, by next weekend I'll be done with the new router setup, so I will go back to the glue bit unless I run into some other problem with it. Since I have to cut one of the three panels for each set of walls, the glue bit won't run me into a dowel or biscuit by accident.

But you can bet that an O-ring is going in the bottom of that Makita collet.

To be sure that I am understanding this, you take the collet out, put an O-ring in the bottom of the collet hole, put in the collet, slide in the bit and let it rest on the O-ring, tighten up, and kick wood. Is that correct?

Thanks, Hawk
Dayton OH and loving it! :D (Except they closed the store.:( )
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

brown_hawk wrote:Ed,

I appreciate the advice, but the problem was that I needed a router plate that would take a panel bit, and I cheaped out on the router. (Can you say Harbor Freight?:( ) I was running short of money and should have just saved up. And that router won't slow down enough for a panel bit, and the speed reducer also cut the power and the bit wouldn't cut. And bit changes were a pain with that design anyhow. Also the hole for the collet is 3 inches deep, so no o-ring would contact the bit. So I bought junk and now I'm paying for it.:mad:

So I was going to have to get a router for it anyhow, and the repeatability of the lift was the main selling point. I have two lift handles that I screw into the plate. Just long bolts with wood handles to lift out the plate and router. We'll see after I get the new system in. The lift handles work with both plates.

The drill idea is good, and I might use it. On the other hand, by next weekend I'll be done with the new router setup, so I will go back to the glue bit unless I run into some other problem with it. Since I have to cut one of the three panels for each set of walls, the glue bit won't run me into a dowel or biscuit by accident.

But you can bet that an O-ring is going in the bottom of that Makita collet.

To be sure that I am understanding this, you take the collet out, put an O-ring in the bottom of the collet hole, put in the collet, slide in the bit and let it rest on the O-ring, tighten up, and kick wood. Is that correct?

Thanks, Hawk
Yea the best thing to do with a Harbor Freight is use it for a paper weight.
Yes you are correct, on the use a small o ring (some router bit manufactures now sell them) take the collet out and put ring in and then the collet. The ring or any rubber piece that would fit and sits on the bottom of the collet socket. If the router bit is sitting tight on rubber, there is still that very small amount of compression space for the collet to fully tighten on the bit.
I have a Hitachi router you simply can not tighten if the bit is bottomed. I have tried various experiments and I'm totally convinced this works.
I think Mark Sommerfield of Sommerfield router bits came up with this a while back.
Ed
brown_hawk
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Post by brown_hawk »

Thanks, Ed, I appreciate it.

Hawk
Dayton OH and loving it! :D (Except they closed the store.:( )
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